Hot Cross Buns

Cut 6 tablespoons unsalted butter into 6 pieces and let sit at room temperature until softened.

Coarsely chop 1 cup dried fruit. Finely grate the zest from 1 medium orange (about 1 tablespoon). Juice the orange into a microwave-safe measuring cup or small bowl until you have 1/4 cup. Microwave the juice until very hot, 20 to 40 seconds. Add the fruit to the orange juice and let sit to let the fruit plump, at least 30 minutes.

Measure out 1/2 cup packed brown sugar. Transfer 1 tablespoon to the bowl of a stand mixer. Add 3/4 cup warm whole or 2% milk and whisk to combine. Sprinkle 1 envelope active dry or rapid rise yeast over the top. Let stand until the yeast dissolves and is foamy, about 5 minutes.

Add the remaining brown sugar, softened butter, orange zest, 4 cups all-purpose flour, 1 of the large eggs, 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 2 teaspoons vanilla extract, 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, 1/2 teaspoon allspice, and 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg to the yeast mixture. Mix on low speed with the paddle attachment until combined, about 1 minute.

Switch to the dough hook attachment. Mix on medium speed until the dough is soft and elastic, about 4 minutes. (Alternately, knead by hand on a lightly floured surface until smooth and springy, 8 to 10 minutes. Return to the bowl.)

Add the plumped fruit and any remaining liquid to the dough. Lightly coat your hands with vegetable oil and knead the fruit into the dough until incorporated. The dough will be very sticky.

Lightly flour a work surface. Remove the dough from the bowl. Clean, dry, and lightly oil the bowl with vegetable oil or cooking spray. Shape the dough into a ball, place it in the bowl, and turn to coat in the oil. Cover and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled in size, 2 to 3 hours.

Lightly coat a 9x13-inch baking pan with vegetable oil or cooking spray. Lightly flour a work surface. Punch down the dough, transfer to the work surface, and roll it into a 16-inch log. Cut crosswise into 12 equal portions (3 to 3 1/2 ounces each). Roll 1 piece of dough into a ball and place seam-side down in the baking pan. Repeat with the remaining dough, spacing the balls evenly apart, into 3 rows of 4. Cover and let rise until puffed and touching each other, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours.

Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Place the remaining 1 large egg and 1 tablespoon cool water in a small bowl and whisk with a fork until combined. Brush the tops of the buns with the egg wash.

Place 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, 1/3 cup water, and 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar in a medium bowl. Stir to combine. Place in a piping bag or a quart-sized zip-top bag with the corner snipped off. Pipe a line across all three rows of buns, then perpendicular down each column to form crosses.

Bake until the buns are golden-brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the buns registers at least 190°F, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer the buns onto a wire rack and let cool for at least 30 minutes.

Uncover and bake until the buns are golden-brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the buns registers at least 190°F, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer the buns out to a wire rack and let cool until cool to the touch, about 30 minutes.

Place 2/3 cup powdered sugar and 2 teaspoons whole or 2% milk in a small bowl and mix until combined. If the icing is too thick, add the remaining 1/2 teaspoon milk. Transfer to a piping bag or a quart-sized zip-top bag with the corner snipped off. Pipe a line of icing across all three rows of buns, then perpendicular down each column to form crosses. Let the icing sit for at least 15 minutes to set before serving.