Melty Cabbage Pasta Carbonara

We both know what classic carbonara is — a decadent Roman pasta dish with a rich, creamy sauce made from just eggs and pasta water. But I want to tell you about this other, less traditional delicious thing: melty cabbage carbonara.

Cabbage might not seem like it belongs here. Yet when you slice it and cook it down for just 15 minutes, it transforms into ribbons of meltingly tender, caramelized perfection that you would swear are covered in butter (reader, there is no butter in here!). All that cabbage ends up taking the place of half the pasta, but stays just as filling tossed in the classic creamy egg-based sauce.

Because I’m already branching away from tradition, I swap in a tin or jar of anchovies for the traditional guanciale (we also have a recipe for anchovy carbonara if that’s your thing). I love the way the umami-rich ‘chovies melt into the sauce and make the cabbage the star of the show. Rest assured, this is not a fishy pasta.

• Ribbons of caramelized cabbage replace half of the pasta for a silky, filling vegetable-forward meal that’s a delicious twist on the classic Roman dish.
• Anchovies and cabbage make this a really cost-effective and easy-to-source dinner. 

• Pecorino Romano cheese. Opt for a block and skip the pre-grated containers, as they will not melt and emulsify the same as fresh, finely grated cheese.
• Cabbage. Shredded green cabbage ribbons melt down to a silky texture.
• Lemon. A little acidity balances the rich sauce and cabbage.
• Spaghetti. Look for a brand that is bronze-cut like De Cecco because the rougher texture will grip the sauce better.
• Anchovies. Tinned anchovies replace traditional guanciale or pancetta. 
• Eggs. Whole eggs and a few extra yolks contribute to the rich, creamy pasta sauce.
• Parsley. I wouldn’t ever put a sprinkle of parsley on classic carbonara, but for reasons I can’t explain I do really love it in this recipe. It is optional, though, if you want to skip the garnish.

1. Cut the cabbage. Core and halve the cabbage, then cut into ribbons.
2. Cook the anchovies and cabbage. Cook the anchovies, then the cabbage, covered at first; the steam will speed up the cooking process. 
3. Cook the pasta. Cook the pasta until it’s just barely al dente (keep the starchy water for later). 
4. Make the sauce. Mix grated Pecorino Romano cheese, eggs, extra yolks, pepper, and pasta water.
5. Finish the pasta. Add the cooked spaghetti directly to the skillet with the cabbage, then the cheese-egg mixture, and toss the pasta vigorously until it comes together — it should be glossy. 

• Swap anchovies for diced guanciale (cured pork jowl) or pancetta (cured pork belly) for a more traditional protein.
• Use Parmesan cheese instead of Pecorino Romano.
• Use a whole 1-pound package of pasta and a large cabbage (doubling the rest of the ingredients) to feed a crowd on a budget.
• I like spaghetti here, but you could certainly substitute bucatini or another noodle-y pasta shape.

• Use good anchovies. Choose a decent-quality tin you would eat on its own (if that’s your thing). I like Ortiz, Merro, and Agostino Recca.
• Move your skillet on and off the heat as needed when cooking the egg mixture. This sauce cooks quickly, so keep an eye on the eggs. If you feel like it’s getting too hot, too fast, move the skillet to an empty burner to slow the cooking.