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The Little House Cookbook by Barbara M. Walker
Book Review 2010

011910-little-house-cookbook.jpgAfter seeing Faith's delectable post about making maple syrup taffy à la Little House in the Big Woods, I was compelled to pull down my battered copy of The Little House Cookbook and pore over the recipes inside. If, like me, you regularly re-read the Little House series as much for the mouthwatering food writing as for the stories, this cookbook is a must-read.

 
 

A surprising number of Little House fans are unaware of this cookbook, which was painstakingly researched and written by Barbara M. Walker (and illustrated by Garth Williams -- yay!) and published in 1989. The book was out of print for about a decade, but has been re-released in recent years, possibly due to people's growing interest in traditional, old-fashioned cooking.

Walker has done an heroic job of compiling more than 100 recipes from the series and interpreting them for the modern kitchen, but her dedication to the subject matter truly shines in the book's introductory chapters, which are as much about social anthropology as they are about food. (Though, really, aren't these two subjects always closely intertwined?)

Walker points out how much the Little House books focus on food: finding it, preserving it, storing it, cooking it, eating it... and in the dire straits of The Long Winter, running out of it. She notes that food looms large in Laura Ingalls's stories because, even in happier times, there was rarely enough of it. Avid fans will recall the diverse and plentiful meals the Ingallses enjoyed in Little House in the Big Woods, the first book in the series. After the family moved west and developed the semi-nomadic diet of prairie settlers -- a diet that consisted largely of cornmeal, lean game, and wild fruits -- those early days of plenty became nothing more than wistful memories.

But what about the recipes? I haven't tried all of them, but the very first one I attempted, years ago, was fried apples 'n' onions (from Farmer Boy). I served it as a breakfast dish, and it was a great accompaniment to fried potatoes. (A warning: This is definitely not a light meal! But remember that the Wilders were a farming family, so this was good stick-to-your-ribs fare to warm you through pre-dawn chores in minus-30 weather.) You can find other variations on this dish online, but let me advise you to keep the skins on the apples, because otherwise they start to disintegrate.

The hasty pudding recipe was also a winner, though it wasn't remotely hasty. Hasty pudding is basically a maple-syrup sweetened (you can also use honey or molasses) baked custard that uses cornmeal as a primary ingredient. The prep time wasn't too onerous, but it does take about two hours to bake. The results were worth the wait. I served mine warm and fresh with vanilla ice cream, but it was also tasty the next morning eaten cold with yogurt.

Of course, I couldn't not try the baked beans recipe, since baked beans loom so large in the novels. These came out very well, right down to the golden-brown crust that Laura lovingly describes.

The hardcore breadmakers among you will be happy to know that there are many bread recipes in this book, from Boston brown bread to rye 'n' injun to Ma Ingalls's beloved sourdough.

Now that I've revived this book from my shelves, there are so many recipes I'm still eager to try: codfish balls, corn dodgers, vinegar pie, real eggnog... I could go on and on. Have you tried any of these, or any other early settler dishes? I'd love to hear your thoughts.


Related: What Are Your Favorite Children's Picture Books About Food?

(Image: Harper Collins)

Comments (18)

I grew up with this cookbook. I always loved pretending to be a pioneer..

posted by spookiefish on January 19th 2010 at 3:13pm
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damnit. another book i didn't read as a kid. I feel so deprived!

posted by powwlita on January 19th 2010 at 3:39pm
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This sounds wonderful. I grew up loving the Little House books, and used to make maple syrup taffy in the backyard when I was about 6. (My dad would just send me out with a thermos of hot syrup, and I'd pour it directly on the ground. Relatively safe, since we lived in the country.)

My question about this is, can anyone tell me whether the book has a high proportion of meat-based recipes? I'm vegetarian, and would like to buy it, but it may not be worth it if it spends too much time on the freshly-butchered pigs I remember so vividly from the books.

Chusmabilly - it's not too late to read the Little House series! I still re-read them to this day and I am 30 years old. :)

I'm curious to take a peek through the cookbook, as someone whose job is decidedly NOT a calorie-burning fest, I'm hesitant to eat so heavily, but I bet it'd be fun!

posted by MissKatieMay on January 19th 2010 at 4:24pm
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I also re-read the Little House books! I've read this before as well. The descriptions of the food are wonderful; remember Laura talking about the 'New England Supper'? I always wondered how big Ma's milkpan and bread pans were, they sounded huge!

I've always wanted to make vanity cakes and am proud to say that I make doughnuts twisted like Almanzo's mom; it does take too long to turn them!

posted by kibitzknitz on January 19th 2010 at 6:08pm
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there is also an "Anne of Green Gables" cookbook out there ... fun for those of us who grew up with those books as well!

posted by Joan in SB on January 19th 2010 at 8:14pm
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Oh my god, the food in "Farmer Boy"--I remember them eating pie for breakfast! I loved all these books, but I think FB is my fave.

posted by Charlotte on January 19th 2010 at 9:23pm
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EmilyW - There are two chapters of the book that are mainly about meat, one for wild meat and one for barnyard raised. However, there are plenty of other recipes that make this book worth having otherwise. There are lots of other recipes for pies, cakes, breads, cornbread, and preserved fruits & veggies (lots of recipes for these). Also most of the meat recipes are fairly separate from the rest. Just skip the barnyard chapter if you don't want to read the butchering parts, and the first half of the foods from the wild chapter, which is focused on wild meats.

posted by Jennybeen on January 19th 2010 at 9:24pm
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I just found my old Little House books tucked away at my parents' house after 15 years, and now there's this?! Thank you, I'm so excited to track it down (and read the whole series again).

Ahhhh! I got that cookbook in the 3rd grade. It was awesome then AND now...I recently brought it back with me from my Mom's. This post reminds me to pull it out and attempt some more recipes...I do remember a fair amount of obscure meats and tons of lard though...I always skipped those.

posted by BrooklynBaker on January 20th 2010 at 9:45am
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I also got this book when I was in 3rd or 4th grade! I love it! Although, I have to admit I've only done one or two recipes from it. I was a little intimidated by some of the recipes, but I haven't looked at it in awhile. I should pull it out and try a few more. Also have the Anne of Green Gables cookbook! :)

Awesome! As kids, my sister and I would mold little brown sugar cakes to play 'olden times'. Now I can go make the real deal!

posted by WhiskAwayNic on January 20th 2010 at 12:53pm
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This cookbook would have been helpful when my 4th grade class held a Little House on the Prairie lunch! Oh the memories... I believe the biscuits I contributed were not very authentic and not very good! Loved the series.

This cookbook is one of my prize possessions. I've used the pie crust recipes repeatedly and the vinegar pie is super tasty. I always mean to try the doughnuts too, maybe this winter as a special treat.

I love this cookbook not only because I love all of the Little House novels but also the recipes are so simple. They didn't have a lot of variety to cook with in those times but nevertheless ate some delicious food.

The buckwheat pancakes are wonderful.

posted by CallieKoch on January 20th 2010 at 8:55pm
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I'm a huge Laura Ingalls Wilder fan and overjoyed when I found a pristine copy of this cookbook a few years ago. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to make anything in the book. Yet.

Personally, I think the best book in the series is Little Farmer boy and his obsession with eating! Popcorn and cider at night. Making ice cream in the summer and using up all the white sugar. What's not to love about the book?

I remember getting this cook book and the American Girl cookbooks for my birthday one year. I still have them, so I'll have to dig them back out!

posted by triedthistwice on January 25th 2010 at 11:59am
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I just ran across this cook book today while helping my mom pack and move! I loved the series and the cook book. Some of the recipes are interesting, I still remember that there is one for raven/crow pie!

posted by TheNimpsGirl on April 2nd 2010 at 10:43pm
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