Everything You Need to Know About Kichri, a Cherished South Asian Comfort Food

One dish I never thought would get the spotlight is kichri — a humble lentil and grain dish, colored yellow with turmeric — that is made all over South Asia. There are as many variations of kichri as there are ways to spell it (you’ll see “kichdi,” “kitchari,” khichri,” to name a few). Each region has its own riff on the spice blend, type of grain or lentil used, and consistency. Some versions are cooked to a porridge, while others resemble a pilaf. 

No matter the style of kichri, the common thread is that it’s a well-loved but very personal dish, meaning that each family makes it slightly differently. Kichri is not commonly made for guests but more suited to the days when you’re out of ideas and just want something simple and satisfying. If kichri was a piece of clothing, it would be the well-worn pair of sweats that you reach for to feel cozy but would never wear outside of the house. Which is why I was surprised to see kichri recipes cooked by famous chefs on the pages of various food media sites for all to see. 

The version I love comes to me by way of my South Indian mother-in-law. You start with the frying of onions, garlic, ginger, whole spices, and chopped mint and cilantro. To that I add basmati rice, yellow gram lentils, salt, turmeric, and water. Once cooked, a drizzle of ghee adds a buttery finish to this golden pilaf. Kichri itself is a blank canvas that can easily be dressed up or down. I personally love complementing it with a tomato- or tamarind-based curry for a spicy sourness that is beautifully tempered by the mildness of kichri. For a simple lunch, a dollop of plain yogurt and achar, a South Asian pickled condiment, is enough to make it a meal. As far as protein options go, grilled fish or keema, spiced ground beef, are my favorite pairings.  

Kichri has been eaten in South Asia as far back as the 14th century. During the Victorian era, British colonials returned from India to England with their own take on kichri, which they called Kedgeree, a mashup of flaked fish, rice, and spices. Kichri is also thought to be the inspiration behind Egypt’s koshary, a popular street food made of rice, macaroni, tomato sauce, and chickpeas topped with fried onions. The cultural exchange may have resulted from the British occupation of Egypt, when Indians were stationed there to serve in the British army and as laborers during WWII.

Plain kichri is often the first food fed to South Asian infants starting solids for the first time. Kichri’s soft texture, mild flavor, and easily-digestible ingredients make it well-suited to curious babies. Kichri is also a go-to meal for sick days, especially when one is experiencing digestive issues. This might also explain why kichri has been co-opted by the wellness movement as a “detox” food. 

But long before its association with chi-chi lifestyle trends, kichri was and still is a revered “home food.” Home foods are a canon of modest, unfussy dishes that are nutritious, economical and scalable with a few pantry ingredients cooked to sustain your family. Generations of South Asian households have relied on kichri to feed large families when money was tight. There’s also a warmth and intimacy to kichri and dishes like it. When I was a child, my mother would feed me kichri with her hands. These dishes make you feel comforted and nourished, both physically and emotionally. 

Perhaps that’s the real reason behind kichri’s popularity in 2020. When the pandemic began, people rushed to stock up on pantry staples like lentils and rice, making kichri an obvious choice. Now as the months of uncertainty and fear wear on us and an unknown future unravels before us, people are not in search of new, exciting flavors. Rather kichri’s gentle fragrance and familiar, carby texture takes us back to simpler times when we felt safe and taken care of.

Try a recipe: Spiced Yellow Dal with Rice (Kitchari)