The Cheesemonger: Shushan Snow

The Cheesemonger: Shushan Snow

Faith Durand
Sep 19, 2007

A clear benefit to residing in my apartment is consuming the cheese that I bring home. No one knows this better than the cat, Frankie. I realize that stories about pets are like dreams: they're invariably more interesting to the recounter (pet owner or dreamer) than to the listener.

I find it significant to share, however, Frankie's act of defilement this morning. Never before has she corrupted my research so blatantly as by jumping onto the kitchen table and carrying off in her jowls a wedge of cheese I had momentarily turned my back on.

I couldn't really blame her. Shushan Snow, from Shushan, New York, is 3-Corner Field Farm's take on Camembert, but made from sheep milk. As the name suggests, the shell is a white fluffy rind, covering a mild yet thoroughly complex paste.

Expect distinct aromas of straw, heavy cream, and damp earth. One of the more unique cheeses around, I praise the edibility of the rind - not bitter like some bloomies, and full of damp, wet stone fragrance, perhaps redolent of the caves that cheesemakers Karen and Paul Weinberg just finished at the farm.

I was able to catch Karen on the phone and she admits that it's better than ever; after 3 years of tinkering she feels she's got it just right. Its lingering, well-balanced finish is a perfect match for an Oloroso sherry.

Find Shushan Snow at Saxelby Cheesemongers for $10.99/each or at the 3-Corner Field stand at Union Square Greenmarket on Wednesday and Saturdays for $8/each.

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