Rosemary Salmon Skewers with Mustard-Maple Glaze

I live in the Pacific Northwest, where rosemary plants grow like weeds. No, really — the four-inch rosemary seedlings I planted five years ago in our side yard can now be seen from space. (Well, Google satellite, but still: We have a lot of rosemary.)

Because of this, I’m always on the lookout for ways to use as much rosemary as possible. One of my favorite uses is something I took from the Mediterranean cooking playbook: turning the sturdiest rosemary trimmings into skewers. The woody, slightly resinous flavor of fresh rosemary is a natural pairing for salmon, another Pacific Northwest treat. A quick soak in a simple, five-ingredient marinade of chopped rosemary, maple syrup, grainy mustard, soy sauce, and balsamic makes these grilled salmon skewers a favorite around our grill.

Using rosemary branches as a cooking tool might seem odd, but once stripped of their leaves (I leave a few leaves on the end for looks), they infuse their flavor right into the center of the fish. (Lamb and chicken kebabs are lovely cooked this way, too.) And because they’re a living plant with sap in the center, there’s no need to soak them as you would bamboo skewers.  

Not everyone has a rosemary farm in their side yard, but some grocery stores and farmers markets sell bunches that will suit your grilling needs. Look for sprigs that are about six to 10 inches long and are sturdy enough to support the weight of thin strips of fish. (The branch should be at least the thickness of a bamboo skewer.)

To make threading the fish onto the branches easier, cut the thickest end at an angle, creating a sharp point, then thread the salmon strips onto the branches as if sewing thread into cloth with a needle. This will secure the salmon to the rosemary and will prevent the fish from moving when you turn the skewers. Once the fish is skewered, add them to the marinade and let them hang out for 10 to 30 minutes.

These tips are handy to have for this recipe, but are also good things to keep in mind anytime you’re grilling fish.

• Clean and oil your grill. Before you start, make sure your grates are clean, which will help the fish release from the grill. The next step is to oil the grates. I like to roll up a clean towel, tie it with string, and pour about 1/4 cup of vegetable or safflower oil all over it. Alternatively, dampen a wad of paper towels with oil. Using tongs, rub the cold grill thoroughly with the oiled towel. 
• Preheat the grill. Hot grates will help minimize sticking. Preheat the grill for at least 30 minutes; longer if you have time. 
• Put the skewers on the grill — and leave them there. Arrange the skewers on the grill a few inches apart, so you have room to roll them over halfway through cooking. Put the side with the leaves still on towards the cool side of the grill. The leaves tend to catch fire if placed over the hot side, which actually creates a lovely smoky flavor, but makes them hard to move later. Do not mess with the skewers for the first three minutes. If you try to move them before the protein has set, they’ll stick. 
• Use a spatula and tongs. After about three minutes, use a spatula to gently loosen the fish from the grill while using tongs to gently roll the skewers away from you and onto their second side. They’ll only need a few minutes more, until the fish is just cooked through. Once off the grill, drizzle them with the remaining maple marinade and get a taste of Pacific Northwest summer. It’s lovely.