Recipe: Brown Butter Apple Loaf

Nealey Dozier
Nealey Dozier
Nealey Dozier is a former wedding planner turned chef, culinary instructor, recipe developer, and food writer. She is based in Atlanta. You can find more of her Southern adventures in eating and entertaining at www.dixiecaviar.com.
updated May 2, 2019
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(Image credit: Nealey Dozier)

Somewhere deep in my imagination, visions of a dreamy spiced apple cake have long swirled in my head. This yet-to-be loaf would be perfectly at home on a crisp Sunday morning, enjoyed with a hot cup of tea and a good book in hand. And yet it would be made for giving, the ultimate thank you for a kind gesture shown by a dear friend. It would be a recipe worth saving, and a recipe worth sharing. And after much testing and tasting, I can confirm: yes, this loaf is all that and more.

(Image credit: Nealey Dozier)

When I headed to the kitchen to test apple cake recipes, I used my mother-in-law’s banana bread recipe as my navigation guide. Hers is a one-bowl wonder that makes a fabulous loaf every single time. Its beauty is as much in its ease as its flexibility — you can make it anytime, anywhere, with almost anything. So I subbed in some apples, added a splash of dark rum, and hoped for the best. As I tasted the first slice still warm from the oven, my heart sunk with the twinge of defeat. It was flat, not tasting of apples at all.

But it’s amazing what a little brain-storming and kitchen alchemy can do. I went back to the drawing board and started dreaming up new possibilities. The first step was browning the butter, an instant way to make something already good even better. I used a mix of brown sugar and white sugar, and made an addition of all-purpose flour along with whole wheat. Apple brandy replaced the dark rum, and crème fraîche added flavor and fat. I finished it off with a dash of cinnamon for the slightest hint of spice.

And the results? A whole new cake that proved to be magical.

(Image credit: Nealey Dozier)

As I sliced into the cake I could tell that my dreams had become a reality. The texture was dense and rich, with specks of sweet apples flooding each and every bite. I had to go sit down to enjoy a piece, and then I had to get up for more. Every now and then I had to close my eyes, just to completely relish the moment. And then it seemed a shame to be enjoying such a wonderful treat alone. So I called my neighbor over and wrapped up another half for the oven repair man.

And then I headed back into the kitchen to bake up another batch, because one just wasn’t going to be enough.

(Image credit: Nealey Dozier)

Brown Butter Apple Loaf

Makes 1 loaf

Nutritional Info

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces

    (1/2 cup) unsalted butter

  • 1/2 cup

    packed brown sugar

  • 1/2 cup

    white sugar

  • 2

    large eggs

  • 4 1/2 ounces

    (1 cup) all-purpose flour (See Recipe Notes)

  • 2 1/4 ounces

    (1/2 cup) whole wheat flour (See Recipe Notes)

  • 1 teaspoon

    baking soda

  • 1 teaspoon

    fine sea salt

  • 1/4 teaspoon

    ground cinnamon

  • 4 ounces

    (1/2 cup) crème fraîche

  • 3 tablespoons

    apple brandy, such as Apple Jack or Calvados

  • 1 teaspoon

    vanilla bean paste or pure vanilla extract

  • 3

    apples, peeled, cored and diced (See Recipe Notes)

  • 1/2 cup

    chopped, toasted pecans

Instructions

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  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a loaf pan with butter or cooking spray.

  2. Place the butter in a medium skillet and melt over medium heat. Continue cooking, swirling occasionally to prevent burning, until the butter is bubbling and golden brown with a nutty aroma. Combine the butter in a large mixing bowl with the sugar, brown sugar, and eggs. Whisk to combine.

  3. Add the flours, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon, and stir with a wooden spoon until just combined. Follow with the crème fraîche, apple brandy, vanilla, apples, and pecans; the batter will be very thick.

  4. Transfer the batter to the prepared loaf pan and smooth the top. Bake loaf for 1 hour. Allow to cool for 20 to 30 minutes before removing from loaf pan.

Recipe Notes

If you do not have a scale to weigh the flour, use the spoon and sweep method.

I prefer crème fraîche for this recipe, but you can substitute sour cream, buttermilk, or plain yogurt.

Use a mix of tart and sweet apples, such as Granny Smith, Braeburn, Gala, Golden Delicious, Honey Gold, Jonathan, McIntosh, and/or Honeycrisp. I used one Granny Smith (tart) and 2 Pacific Rose (sweet) apples for testing.