This One Ingredient Instantly Upgrades Chicken and Potatoes

In my family, it’s not Rosh Hashanah without a chicken dish. When I was growing up, we celebrated the Jewish new year at my grandparents’ house, and the chicken in question was typically roasted simply, often with potatoes. And of course there was always plenty of challah on the table waiting to be slathered in honey.

That honey (always bordering on too much for the slice of bread — but hey, we want a sweet new year, don’t we?) would drip off my challah and onto the rest of my plate. When I think about how much I loved when the sticky-sweet syrup mingled with rich, salty chicken and creamy potatoes, I wonder why this was merely an outcome from the dinner plate, rather than intentional. Well, now that I’m cooking for Rosh Hashanah, it is — with a few updates to suit my palate and budget, of course. That means instead of a whole bird, it’s chicken leg quarters; and instead of honey, it’s pomegranate molasses.

Pomegranate is an important image in the Jewish faith and culture, from etchings on ancient coins and Torah scrolls to mentions in the Talmud and biblical passages. One legend says that each fruit has 613 seeds, which was mirrored by the 613 mitzvot, or commandments, of the Torah; another blessing expresses hope for people to be as full of mitzvot as pomegranates are full of seeds. The fruit remains particularly significant during the Jewish new year (where sweets reign as a sign of positive comings) — especially on the second night of the festivities, where a prayer is said over a “new,” or newly in season, fruit. Personally, I like to move beyond the symbolic and incorporate the fruit directly into my meal. 

In savory applications, I like to embrace thick, tart pomegranate molasses. Unlike other more viscous, cloying styles of molasses, the pomegranate version (just reduced pomegranate juice) has a consistency and flavor more akin to tart balsamic vinegar than saccharine honey. The tangy-sweet condiment can be used anywhere from a dressing for roasted vegetables to a kebab marinade to a cocktail addition. And I happen to think it makes a delightful foil to rich chicken fat and starchy potatoes. 

In this recipe, I render out as much fat as possible from whole chicken legs by starting them in a cold skillet. (With more edible meat per pound than a whole bird and plenty of flavorful dark meat, the chicken leg quarters check all the boxes when it comes to affordability and flavor.) I whisk together the rendered schmaltz with pomegranate molasses, then use it to baste the seared legs, nestled into the skillet with tiny potatoes, red onions, and fresh oregano. A sprinkle of mild chile flakes and I’ll finish cooking the chicken by tossing the whole skillet into the oven. The dish can stand on its own as a meal, but I’ll never say no to a crunchy green salad — or thick slice of challah for mopping up the sweet-savory pan juices.