Pineapple Buns

1. Cut the 4 tablespoons unsalted butter for the dough into 4 pieces. Place another 4 tablespoons unsalted butter (for the topping) and 1 large egg on the counter. Let the butter and egg sit at room temperature until the butter is softened. Meanwhile, make the tangzhong.

Make the tangzhong:

1. Place 1/2 cup whole or 2% milk and 1/4 cup bread flour in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens to the consistency of mashed potatoes and is steaming, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape the mixture into a small heatproof bowl and let cool until lukewarm, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, proof the yeast for the dough and measure out the dry ingredients.

Make the dough:

1. Place 2/3 cup whole or 2% milk in a small microwave-safe bowl or measuring cup. Microwave until warm to the touch (105ºF to 110ºF), 30 to 40 seconds. (Alternatively, warm on the stovetop and pour into a small bowl.) Sprinkle with 1 (1/4-ounce) packet active dry yeast, stir to combine, and let sit until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes. Place 2 2/3 cups bread flour, 1/4 cup granulated sugar, and 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt in the bowl of a stand mixer and whisk to combine.

2. Add the tangzhong, yeast mixture, and 1 large egg to the flour mixture. Mix with the dough hook on the lowest speed until a shaggy dough forms, about 1 1/2 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and add the butter 1 piece at a time, waiting until each piece is completely incorporated before adding the next, about 5 minutes total.

3. Increase the speed to medium-high and mix for 5 minutes more. At this point, the dough should clear the sides of the bowl but stick a little to the bottom; the dough will be smooth, tacky, and shiny.

4. Lightly coat a large bowl with cooking spray. Transfer the dough into the bowl and flip to coat. Cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm place until about doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours, or refrigerate for at least 8 or up to 24 hours. Meanwhile, make the topping.

Make the topping:

1. Place 1 cup all-purpose flour (or 1/2 cup all-purpose flour plus 1/2 cup rice flour), 1/4 teaspoon baking soda, and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt in a small bowl and whisk to combine.

2. Wash and dry the stand mixer bowl. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons unsalted butter and 2/3 cup granulated sugar to the bowl and beat with the paddle attachment on the lowest speed until combined, about 1 minute.

3. Add 1 of the large egg yolks, 1 tablespoon whole or 2% milk, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, and 1/4 teaspoon yellow food coloring or 2 drops yellow food gel if desired. Beat on the lowest speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the flour mixture and beat on the lowest speed until just combined, about 1 minute.

4. Scrape the topping onto a sheet of plastic wrap and use the plastic wrap to form it into a thick disk. Wrap the disk tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to assemble the buns.

Assemble and bake:

1. When the dough is ready, line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Gently punch the dough down and transfer to a work surface. Divide the dough into 12 pieces (about 2.4 ounces or 68 grams each). Form each piece into a round ball by pushing down with the heel of your hand (lightly flour your hand but not the work surface if the dough is sticky) while moving your hand in a circular motion, then cupping the ball toward the end (here are step-by-step photos). Place 6 on each baking sheet, spacing them at least 3 inches apart.

2. Lightly cover each baking sheet with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until puffed and about 3-inches wide, 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Meanwhile, roll out the topping.

3. Cut a sandwich-sized plastic zip top bag into two sheets by cutting along the 3 seams. Have 2 silicone baking mats or 2 sheets of parchment or wax paper the length of a baking sheet ready. Divide the topping into 12 pieces (about 1 ounce or 29 grams each) and roll each piece into a smooth ball.

4. Place 1 ball between the 2 plastic sheets and press into a disk. Roll out with a rolling pin or dumpling dowel into a 3 1/2-round that’s slightly thicker than 1/8-inch (it’s okay if it has ragged edges). Uncover and flip the round out onto one corner of the mat or paper. Use the back of a chef’s knife or a ruler to score a crosshatch pattern onto the round (space the lines about 3/4-inch apart), being careful not to cut all the way through. Repeat rolling out the remaining balls, 6 per mat or sheet. If the dough is too soft to work with at any point, refrigerate until firmer before continuing.

5. Slide the sheets of topping onto a third baking sheet, stacking them (if you don’t have a third baking sheet, slide one sheet of buns onto a work surface and use that baking sheet). Refrigerate until ready to use.

6. About 30 minutes before the buns are ready, arrange 2 racks to divide the oven into thirds and heat the oven to 375ºF.

7. Remove the topping from the refrigerator (slide the sheets of topping off the baking sheet and transfer the sheet of buns back on it if needed). Uncover the buns. Slide a bench scraper or thin, flat spatula under a topping round to lift it up, then drape the round onto a bun (it will not completely cover the bun). Repeat topping the remaining buns. Gently press the topping so it conforms to the shape of the bun.

8. Beat the remaining 1 large egg yolk in a small bowl with a fork until broken up. Lightly brush a thin layer of egg onto the topping.

9. Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the baking sheets between racks and from front to back. Bake until the topping is a shade darker and golden brown in spots, about 8 minutes more. Let cool for 5 minutes on the baking sheets, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature. The buns will be crispest on the first day.