I Can’t Wait to Cook Everything From This Famed Thai Chef’s Newest Cookbook, Starting With The Party-Perfect Beef

I’m a big fan of Nok Suntaranon’s restaurant Kalaya in Philadelphia. Eating there was one of the first times that I got emotional while eating Thai food (that wasn’t made by my grandmother). The flavors of her kitchen are bold, the heat is there, and the ambiance is next-level. Nok’s strong personality truly shines in her restaurant. 

So when I heard she was publishing a cookbook, Kalaya’s Southern Kitchen (which was released on November 5th!), that’s all about southern Thai food, I knew that it would be my new all-time favorite cookbook. I practically yelped at the idea of enjoying her delicious food in the comfort of my own home (and without needing to jump on the Amtrak!).

In her cookbook, Nok shares a “forgotten recipe,” as she describes it, that she ate as a child and now longs for as an adult: Nua Pad Look Pak Chee (Party-Perfect Coriander Beef), which she dubs as “beef candy.” She writes, “No one makes this anymore, so I’m bringing it back!” She recalls the flavors from memory: There’s sweetness, heat, and lots of coriander. I just had to make it for myself — and unsurprisingly, it’s really great. 

• The flavor is next-level. Tamarind, fish sauce, and palm sugar (or light brown sugar) come together to make a sticky-sweet-salty-savory sauce that resembles pad thai sauce (and is actually made with the same ingredients!). When stir-fried into the beef with white pepper, black pepper, and extra coriander, it is quite literally a party in your mouth. 
• It’s the perfect make-ahead dinner. The beef tenderizes in the fish sauce-brown sugar marinade overnight and is great to prepare ahead of a party and stir-fry right before guests arrive (your house will smell amazing!).

1. Marinate the beef. In an airtight container, combine the beef with the fish sauce, white pepper, black pepper, and brown sugar and marinate overnight.
2. Fry the aromatics. In a Dutch oven or pot, cook the chopped garlic in the oil until just sizzling.
3. Brown the beef.  Add the beef and cook, stirring often, until it’s no longer pink. 
4. Add the remaining ingredients. Add water and cook until the beef is fork-tender. Add the palm sugar, salt, and tamarind concentrate, cooking down until the sugar is dissolved and the meat is coated in the sauce.
5. Season and serve. Stir in the fish sauce and coriander seeds. Remove from the heat and serve with white rice. 

Reading the recipe description before trying it, I couldn’t help but laugh at Nok calling it “beef candy.” But she’s absolutely right — this dish is truly beef candy in the best possible way, but with so much more depth. The sugar caramelizes the beef perfectly, creating a sweet, sticky coating that balances the warm heat from both white and black peppercorns. Meanwhile, the fish sauce and tamarind add a savory-sour tang that ties all the flavors together in a harmonious way. It’s the quintessential example of Thai cooking, expertly hitting all the key notes of sweet, salty, savory, and sour.

I was also stunned by how quickly it comes together. Besides the marinating time, it’s incredibly quick to prepare — the kind of recipe that’s perfect for impressing guests without spending hours in the kitchen. And she’s right; this would be an ideal dish for a party, and I can’t wait to serve it to friends in the future. But for now, I’m enjoying it solo — party of one.