Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is a savory Japanese cabbage pancake that has its origins in Osaka street food. It usually consists of shredded cabbage, yam, eggs, flour, and dashi (bonito stock). The pancake is griddled until golden-brown, then finished with a combination of toppings.

Okonomo translates to “how you like” or “preference,” and “yaki” translates to “grilled.” There are many versions of okonomiyaki depending on where you are in Japan. For example, the Osaka version traditionally includes pork belly that’s griddled right into the pancake, while the Hiroshima style is a thin, crepe-like pancake that is served on top of yakisoba noodles. And then there’s my version: the Bodega-style okonomiyaki.

I started making okonomiyaki at a time in my life when I needed to make a dollar stretch. Cabbage, carrots, scallions, eggs, and flour are inexpensive items that I could easily source at my local bodega. Those ingredients became the base of this recipe. Keeping hondashi (in my pantry, rather than needing to make it from scratch or defrost frozen dashi) helped me make this dish any night of the week. I still make it for my family because they love it and it so easy to make any night of the week.

This recipe strays from the Osaka version in a few ways. For example, because I live in a mostly pescatarian household, I omit the pork belly. It is by no means meant to be “better” or an “upgrade” to the original, but rather a riff on it that’s easy to make at home.

Just like the pancake ingredients, okonomiyaki toppings vary as well. When I was in Tokyo, I went in search of okonomiyaki. I was eager to try the pancake I’d been making for years in the place of its origin. The version I ordered had several types of seafood, including squid and octopus. It came out sizzling and covered with large dollops of Japanese mayo, fried eggs, and a generous dusting of katsuobushi (bonito flakes).

I included a homemade mayo recipe because I’m allergic to Kewpie’s soybean oil base, but if you aren’t allergic and can source it, I recommend using it. As for the okonomi sauce, my recipe stays true to the original ingredients: ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, and oyster sauce. Some recipes call for a little sugar, which you can add if you want. To create the fun decorative topping, you’ll need to transfer the sauces into small squeeze bottles, then drizzle on top of the pancake. No squeeze bottles? No problem! Use a spoon to dollop the sauce over the okonomiyaki.

After I add the sauce, I sprinkle on nori furikake, then top the entire surface of the pancake with a generous amount of katsuobushi. The bonito flakes will dance on top of the hot pancake, adding a little drama — and a gentle smoky flavor — to the finished dish.