Mushroom “Carnitas” Tacos

Like many great dishes, these carnitas are the result of a happy accident. You see, I bought enoki mushrooms on a whim but failed to use them in their prime. Before I knew it, they were starting to cross over to the sad, mushy side, so I did what any tired cook would do: Sauté them. The stringy ‘shrooms turned out crispy, golden-brown, and pleasantly greasy. I piled them into charred corn tortillas with guacamole, fresh cilantro, and a squeeze of lime, and after the first surprisingly delicious bite I thought, “Did I just make vegan carnitas?”

Traditional carnitas are a Mexican dish of juicy braised pork with crispy browned edges. Although the pork is typically cooked low and slow, this plant-based version cooks quickly on the stovetop, meaning you can sit down to savory, “meaty” tacos in just about 30 minutes. Here’s how to make this low-effort vegan summer dinner.

Enoki mushrooms are thin, almost noodle-like mild white mushrooms that grow in bunches. They’re popular in East Asian cuisine and are often used in soups and stir-fries (there’s a good chance you’ve had them in ramen). They can be found in most Asian markets, specialty food stores, and increasingly more in standard supermarkets, too. Their size, shape, and stringy texture makes them a natural dupe for pulled pork.

Look for mushrooms that are firm and white (not discolored or slimy), and store them in a paper bag. When you’re ready to cook them, pick off what you need and trim off the woody parts of the stems.

1. Don’t wash the mushrooms. Dry mushrooms make the the crispiest “carnitas.” Gently brush off any dirt with a pastry brush or folded paper towel.
2. Cut the mushrooms into pieces. Enoki have a stringy texture, so it’s important to cut them into 1 1/2-inch pieces before sautéing. Otherwise, they can be a struggle to chew.
3. Cook in two batches. If the mushrooms are crowded, they’ll steam and become mushy instead of browning and crisping. Working in two batches allows you to cook every single piece until it’s brown and crispy.
4. Resist the urge to stir. Prolonged contact with the hot pan results in maximum crispiness. In fact, for the first five minutes, cook them completely undisturbed.

For the ultimate vegan tacos, top the “carnitas” with smoky chipotle mayo, zingy quick-pickled red onions, and sliced avocado. If you’re feeling lazy, just guacamole will do. You can enjoy the crispy ‘shrooms in a burrito, or on a burrito bowl.