A March Letter from the Editor: What We Cook on Sundays
Happy Sunday! What’s cooking? I ask in the confidence that you have cooked something today, or will be cooking shortly, as Sunday is the chief of all days to cook, the one where we most frequently enjoy meals with a relaxed sense of time — but also the day where we cook now so we can eat later.
On Sunday mornings I often do something a little extra for my kids, like a quick and airy Dutch baby. My latest trick has been lifting the Dutch baby straight out of its skillet, bringing it to the table on a board, like an eggy cloud, and crunching it into wedges as it deflates. My daughter prefers the classic recipe, dusted liberally with powdered sugar; but personally I love this strawberry baby (make it with frozen berries for a taste of summer right the heck now).
That’s Sunday cooking, morning edition. Sunday cooking, when I’m at my best, also means an evening routine, leaning forward into the week. Last Sunday I embraced winter and made short ribs with red wine, a classic braise that tasted better on each subsequent weeknight. I flexed my pasta salad muscles and cooked a pound of orzo, and tossed it while warm with olive oil and Champagne vinegar, plus a feathery pile of shaved radicchio, crumbles of pungent sheep feta, lots of lemon zest, and finely chopped purple basil, cilantro, and all the other leftover herbs I had lurking in my crisper from an order of pho. This pasta salad was good cold for lunch and warm for dinner with defrosted salmon baked on Tuesday night.
Other Sunday cooking routines I have loved: making yogurt in the Instant Pot and a batch of dried cherry and olive oil granola. Roasting a big tray of boneless, skinless chicken thighs with an interesting spice like this hot and sour mix of green dried mango and chilies, to be sliced later for salads and lunches.
Both types of Sunday cooking — the leisurely and the industrious, the relaxed and the prudent — figure large at Kitchn this March. In These Weird Times we need the break of Sunday meals more than ever, sitting down to an extra-enjoyable brunch or supper, whether that’s sticky bun coffee cake or two-day tomato marinara. But we also love to talk about the gloating pleasures of making food ahead, and all the ways Sunday helps you be a good neighbor to your future self. This month we’re inviting some of our favorite cooks — Julia Turshen, Hetty McKinnon, MacKenzie Smith, and others — to share their own favorite Sunday cooking habits and recipes, from brunch hand pies to homemade noodles.
Many other good things are coming your way this month, sure to become Sunday cooking favorites themselves. Cheesy kimchi rolls (!!), spicy saffron shrimp, Instant Pot chili mac, the definitive blondie showdown, an incredibly good guide to buying your first Dutch oven, and an entire week devoted to the great and mighty flavor known as ranch dressing. And don’t forget: March brings so many things to celebrate — Holi, Nowruz, Passover, and the first day of spring (hurray!).
Happy Sunday cooking to you. By the time you read this I’ll have Lesley Téllez’s pork shoulder pozole all soupy and fragrant in my Instant Pot — for enjoying tonight, and eating Tuesday too.