Rosemary Lamb Kebabs with Smoky Eggplant

Remove all the rosemary leaves from the branches except 2 inches (5 cm) at the top of each sprig. Using a sharp knife, cut the leafless end of each branch at an angle to make a point, which will make it easier to skewer the lamb. Save the rosemary leaves you removed for another use. Place the lamb in a large mixing bowl, drizzle with enough oil to coat, season generously with salt, and toss to combine.

In a small dry skillet over medium heat, toast the peppercorns, cumin, and coriander until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the spices to cool, then coarsely grind them in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. Add the ground spices, the oregano, Korean red pepper flakes, and garlic, followed by 1⁄4 cup (60 ml) oil to the lamb and toss to combine. Set the meat aside to marinate at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, or up to 1 hour.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log).

Place the eggplants directly on the coals (if cooking on a gas grill, place the eggplants directly on the grates) and cook, using tongs to turn them occasionally, until the skins are blackened and tender and the eggplants have collapsed, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the eggplants to a rimmed baking sheet to cool slightly, and then slice them open lengthwise. Use a spoon to scrape out the tender insides, discarding the charred skin and stems. Place the eggplant flesh in a colander and let the excess moisture drain for 15 to 30 minutes (as time allows).

Meanwhile, skewer the lamb onto the rosemary skewers and place them on a rimmed baking sheet.

Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the kebabs over direct heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for about 4 minutes, or until medium-rare, turning the kebabs often. Keep the lamb warm on an upper tier rack of your grill, if it has one, or transfer the kebabs to a cutting board and tent with aluminum foil while you finish the eggplant.

Place the drained eggplant in the bowl of a food processor with 1⁄2 teaspoon salt and pulse into a coarse puree. Add the tahini and lemon juice and process until smooth.

Transfer the puree to a serving bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve the lamb kebabs over a slather of eggplant purée drizzled with olive oil. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and pine nuts and serve with lemon wedges and grilled pita bread.