How To Make Homemade Shoyu-Style Ramen

As I watch the gentle flakes of snow drifting then disappearing into the white mountain landscape of Japan, I want something warm, comforting, and slurpable. On days like this, shoyu ramen hits the spot. While not as luxurious as tonkotsu ramen with its long-simmered broth, this popular type of ramen highlights the quintessential Japanese pantry staple, shoyu, which means soy sauce in Japanese. (Here’s a quick guide to different types of soy sauce and how to use them). 

Ramen came to Japan from China and you can see this historial connection in the naming — it is sometimes called chūka soba, which translates to “Chinese soba.” With an over 100-year history in Japan, ramen has been woven into the fabric of the cuisine with regional variations like shio (salt), miso, tonkotsu, and, of course, shoyu. 

These days it’s easy to source ingredients online, but if you have a Japanese or Asian grocery store nearby, I’d encourage you to drop in. Focus on getting a good-quality shoyu, mirin (Japanese rice wine), and cooking sake to start, as these are pantry items used over and over in Japanese recipes. Making ramen at home is a labor of love, but the result is more than worth it.

• Tare: This is the main seasoning, which gives the ramen its flavor.
• Chicken stock: This recipe calls for making a light chicken stock with chicken bones, aromatics, kombu (dried kelp), and dried shiitake mushrooms, which allows the shoyu flavor to really shine. The chicken stock is added to the tare just before serving. 
• Noodles: You’ll want to go for fresh noodles like Sun Noodle if you can find them. Dried ramen noodles will work too. 
• Toppings: The toppings for this shoyu ramen recipe are chashu (sliced braised pork), ajitsuke tamago (marinated egg), scallions, corn, grated garlic, and nori.

1. Make the chashu and tare. Combine pork shoulder, aromatics, soy sauce, mirin, water, and sake in a pot. When simmering, a sheet of foil fitted onto your pot acts as an otoshibuta (drop lid) and helps keep the top of the meat moist, while preventing too much liquid from evaporating. Once tender, remove the pork and strain the cooking liquid, which is the tare. 
2. Make the chicken stock. To cut down on the overall cooking time, you can simmer this alongside the chashu and tare. 
3. Marinate the eggs. For this, soft-boil eggs then marinate them in equal parts water and tare for 2 hours or overnight.
4. Assemble the ramen. The tare and stock ratio for each individual bowl is about 1:6. Use this as a basic guide because the strength of the tare is dependent on the brand of shoyu and how concentrated it gets while simmering. I encourage you to do a test bowl first. My bowl could hold about 1 1/4 cups stock (accounting for room for the noodles) so I used a scant 3 1/4 tablespoons tare to start. After tasting, I added one more teaspoon of tare. It’s best to under-season and adjust, rather than over-season. Once you’ve determined the right proportion, add the boiled ramen noodles, arrange the toppings, and serve.

I recommend fresh noodles for shoyu, but dried noodles can work in a pinch. They’re also convenient because they can be stored longer. If you have a choice, go for wavy noodles with a medium thickness. This style of noodle is standard for shoyu ramen.

• Chashu is tender and flavorful braised pork.  
• Ajitsuke tamago is a marinated, soft-boiled egg that adds richness.
• Scallions impart a fresh kick to each bite.
• Corn lends sweetness to an otherwise savory bowl.
• Nori adds a mild umami note.
• Just a hint of grated garlic can add another layer of flavor.
• Other common toppings include boiled spinach, bean sprouts, menma (seasoned bamboo shoots), wakame (dried seaweed), thinly sliced Japanese leeks, naruto fish cake, and a dash of ground white pepper.

Because making shoyu ramen can be time-consuming, here are some helpful tips for getting ahead on prep. 

• The chashu, tare, ajitsuke tamago, and chicken stock can be made a day in advance. 
• If storing the chashu for longer, wrap it in plastic wrap and place in a zip-top bag, then store in the freezer for up to one month. 
• The tare and chicken stock can also be stored in the refrigerator for a couple of days or in the freezer for up to three months. 

• Wait to slice the chashu until after it’s chilled.The chashu will be much easier to slice after it cools in the refrigerator. Once placed in serving bowls, the hot soup will gently warm the chashu.
• Enjoy the chashu and tare in other ways. You can use the leftover chashu in fried rice or an Asian-inspired breakfast hash. The leftover tare can be used as a soup base for udon or soba noodles by adding dashi (Japanese soup stock) or as a seasoning in a stir-fry.
• Timing is key to avoiding soggy noodles. Plan to have the tare and stock ladled into bowls and the toppings ready before the noodles are done cooking. The noodles will continue to cook in the hot soup, so eat immediately after serving.

A version of this recipe was first published in January 2018 by Meghan Splawn.