How To Make Hot Cross Buns

Heat the milk. Place the milk in a small saucepan over low heat until warm to the touch but not hot (between 105°F and 115°F on an instant-read thermometer), about 6 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

Dissolve the yeast. Add the yeast and 1 teaspoon of the sugar. Mix on low speed just until combined, about 20 seconds. Let stand in the bowl until the mixture is foamy, frothy, smells distinctly like yeast, and is beige in color, 5 to 6 minutes.

Mix the dry ingredients. Meanwhile, place the bread flour, all-purpose flour, lemon and orange zests, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, and remaining 3/4 cup sugar in a large bowl and whisk until combined.

Mix together. Add 1/2 of the flour mixture to the yeast mixture and mix on low speed until just combined, about 1 minute. Add the butter, whole eggs, egg yolks, and vanilla, and mix on low speed to combine, about 1 minute. Add the remaining flour mixture and mix on low speed to combine, about 1 minute.

Knead the dough. Switch the paddle attachment to the dough hook attachment. Mix on medium speed until the dough comes together, is smooth, and can be easily scraped down with a dough scraper; it won't completely clear the side of the bowl and will remain just a little sticky, 5 to 6 minutes.

Add the fruit. Add the currants or raisins and mix on low speed until evenly distributed throughout the dough, about 1 minute.

Let the dough rise. Scrape the dough into a large, clean bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until the dough has almost doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Prepare your pan and work surface. Meanwhile, line a 13x18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside. Lightly flour a work surface.

Divide and roll. Transfer the dough onto the work surface and divide it into 24 pieces (about 2 1/2 ounces or heaping 1/4 cup each). Roll 1 piece of dough into a ball (if the dough is too sticky, dust your hands very lightly with flour) and place on the prepared baking sheet, about 3/4-inch in from the edge. Repeat with the remaining dough, placing the balls 3/4 inch apart, making 4 rows across and 6 rows down the length of the sheet. Flatten the balls with lightly floured fingers so that they are each about 2 inches in diameter.

Cover and rise again. Spray 2 large sheets of plastic wrap with cooking spray and place them side by side over the buns, sprayed-side down. Set aside in a warm place the let the buns rise until they are just barely touching, 40 minutes to 1 hour. Meanwhile, make the crossing mixture.

Make the crossing mixture. Place the flour, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Add the egg and milk and stir into a smooth a thick paste. Transfer into a piping bag fitted with a plain small tip with a 1/4-inch opening or a resealable plastic sandwich bag.

Heat the oven. 20 minutes before the end of the second rise, arrange a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350°F.

Slash the buns. Uncover the buns. Using a ruler as a guide, run a sharp knife down the center and through the tops of a row of buns to make a 1/8-inch-deep slash. Repeat with the other rows. Rotate the baking sheet 90 degrees. Repeat, making slashes to make lines that are perpendicular to the first slashes in each row. When finished, each bun should have a cross from end to end.

Pipe the crosses. (If using a sandwich bag for piping, snip off a bottom corner to make a 1/4-inch opening.) Squeeze a line of the crossing mixture into the slashes on each bun, following the grooves from bun to bun and edge to edge so that the top of each bun has a filled cross. You may have some leftover filling.

Make the egg wash. Whisk the egg and water together in a small bowl. Gently but thoroughly brush the buns with the egg wash, avoiding brushing the filling.

Bake the buns. Bake until the buns are deep golden-brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of one of the buns registers read between 195°F to 200°F, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, make the glaze.

Make the glaze. Place the syrup or jelly and water in a small microwave-safe bowl and heat for 30 seconds. Stir until the mixture is thoroughly combined. Alternatively, use a small saucepan and heat over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the jelly is fully dissolved and the mixture is warm; set aside.

Glaze the buns. Place the baking sheet on a wire rack. Immediately use a clean pastry brush to coat the buns well with the glaze.

Let the buns cool. Let the buns sit in the pan to cool at least 30 minutes before serving.