How To Make Fermented Asparagus Pickles

When friends ask how to ferment deli-style pickles, I recommend that they start by practicing with asparagus spears. By practicing with asparagus you’ll learn all you need to know by the time cucumber season arrives. Thankfully this isn’t all about learning; asparagus makes for great pickles and is a welcome accompaniment to spring grilling.

Preserving has taught me to look at ingredients differently than I used to; each part of a fruit or vegetable can be prepared in different ways. The woody bottom parts of asparagus can be transformed into stock and pressure-canned or dehydrated and transformed into powder, while the spears are great when eaten fresh, frozen, or pickled with vinegar. The middle part of asparagus — the stems — are ideal for fermenting because they are dense and hold their form, while still having a soft-enough texture to enjoy eating. To ferment asparagus I buy twice as much as I need and reserve the other parts for other recipes, but feel free to experiment away!

The trickiest part of fermenting is to keep all of the ingredients under the surface of the brine. Some people buy special fermenting weights, or use clean stones or other objects to submerge ingredients. I find the easiest way is to do something I call “seat belting.” For this recipe we wedge a slice of orange above all the other ingredients, but trap it under the shoulders of the jar. As long as you fill your jar with enough brine to reach the shoulder, this will ensure nothing can float.

The second key to a successful ferment is using filtered water. Many towns and cities add chlorine to tap water, which can prevent a successful fermentation. If you live in such a place, you can leave a bowl of water on the counter overnight to let the chlorine evaporate (or use a bottle of water).

Ferments don’t need a lot of attention, but make sure to check your progress daily. If you see a light film appear on the surface of the brine, remove it with a clean spoon. If the ferment turns to mold (which shouldn’t happen if you’re keeping everything submerged and skimming) you’re best to discard the ferment and start again. Some ferments look like a mad simmer, while others are very subtle. Trust the process and you’ll find the flavors will develop before you know it.