How To Make Rice Congee

Silky, savory congee is an everyday breakfast in China. Elsewhere throughout Asia similar rice preparations go by names like jook in Hong Kong, khao tom moo in Thailand, and arroz caldo in the Philippines. Simmer a small amount of rice in a large amount of liquid for several hours, and you have congee. If you’re not already in the know when it comes to this breakfast, you’d better listen up. You’re in for a real treat.

Congee is sometimes described as rice porridge, but it is not a porridge. Porridge is a western dish made by simmering grains, like oats, or legumes in milk or water until it reaches a very soft, spoonable consistency. It’s typically sweetened.

Congee is a dish that evolved in Asia independent of western-style porridge. It is usually (though not always) rice-based, and is savory. It is also typically cooked with (or served with) meat and vegetables.

I asked Pat Tanumihardja, author of The Asian Grandmothers Cookbook, to describe her ideal congee, and her instant reply was, “The one that mom or grandma makes!” She then went on to explain that congee is a comfort food in Chinese cuisine, much like macaroni and cheese or chocolate chip cookies in mainstream US cuisine — the one your mom made for you when you were a kid will always be the best.

At its heart, congee is an ultra-simple dish. Simmer a small amount of rice in a large amount of water for several hours, and you have congee. It’s silky, creamy, and best eaten with a spoon.

Tanumihardja told me that there is no specific ratio of rice to liquid when making congee. She recommends starting with one cup of dry rice and six cups of liquid, then adding more liquid or simmering for longer until you reach a consistency and a texture that you like. Also, the more frequently you stir, the more the rice will break down and become silky.

To give congee more flavor and richness, you can simmer the rice in chicken stock, or even throw a few chicken pieces or leftover bones into the pot to simmer along with the rice. You can pull the cooked meat off the bones at the end and stir them into the congee.

Congee is also usually served with various toppings, like fried shallots, sliced green onions, pickled mustard cabbage, or a poached egg. Tanumihardja remembers her mother stirring “a raw egg into a piping-hot bowl of congee, and it would cook and form silky threads in the hot mixture.”

Congee is usually served as a breakfast food, but you can also eat it for lunch, dinner, or even a late-night snack. Try a bowl of congee if you’re sick, too. Tanumihardja says, “Chicken congee is the Chinese equivalent of chicken noodle soup, cooked with lots of ginger to clear the sinuses.”

Again and again in our conversation, Tanumihardja emphasized that congee is a meal that’s all about personal preference. Have some chicken wings? Throw those in. Want to try making congee with brown rice or quinoa? Go for it. Have some kimchi that needs eating? Pile it on. There’s no right or wrong way here! Start with this basic recipe, and then start trying variations based on what you have in your kitchen and what you’re craving.