Going Underground: Department Store Food Halls Tokyo, Japan

Going Underground: Department Store Food Halls Tokyo, Japan

Nora Maynard
Jun 29, 2009

Tokyo is a food lover's paradise. Home to a bustling fish market with ultra-fresh, affordable sushi; tiny kiosks selling sizzling hot yakitori (grilled chicken skewers); and 7-Elevens offering onigiri (seasoned rice balls wrapped in nori), the city's streets are an easy place for a visitor to find a fast, fresh meal.

But venture down a flight of stairs or two and you'll discover that an important part of the city's food culture is hidden well below street level...

...in depachika - the basement gourmet food halls of major department stores.

On a trip to Tokyo earlier this month, I visited one such food hall - at Matsuzakaya department store, in the Ginza district of Tokyo. I stopped by on a Monday morning, just before the lunchtime rush, and took a look around.

The place was filled with individual vendor stalls selling everything from beautifully packaged rice crackers, to imported chocolates, to freshly packed bento box lunches, exquisite teas, and a dazzling array of fresh pastries. I didn't know where to start. I zeroed in on the grocery store occupying a large corner of the floor, and began to explore:

• 1 Entering the food hall at Tokyo's Matsuzakaya department store in Ginza. Vendors call out "Irrashaimase" or "Welcome" as customers pass.
• 2 Wine, sake, and a counter devoted to European deli foods
• 3 Inside the grocery store: Mayonnaise (including the iconic Kewpie) on display
• 4 Pricey gift boxes of cherries (3,150 yen is roughly equivalent to 32 U.S. dollars!)
• 5 More fancy fruit

• 6 A grocery store section devoted to salt
• 7 Assorted varieties of Asian mushrooms
• 8 Bundles of shiso leaves
• 9 Points for presentation: A sushi lunchbox garnished with parsley and aster flowers
• 10 So much to choose from!

Have you ever visited a depachika?

Related: Tsukiji Fish Market

(Images: Nora Maynard)

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