Libby Willis’ Choose-Your-Own-Adventure Pavlova

Libby Willis is the chef/co-owner of the late MeMe’s Diner and the soon-to-open KIT. The Kitchn recently talked with her about the politics of Pride and why pavlova is her ideal way to end a dinner party.

So much of Pride is about coming together with your community, and obviously that wasn’t possible in 2020 with the pandemic. What was Pride like for you last year?
For Pride last year I organized the Totes Gay tote bags in collaboration with other queer chefs and business owners, which centered queer people instead of businesses profiting off of a holiday. So Pride last year was definitely different, but it also helped me focus on the politics of the celebration again. It was also the summer of many Black Lives Matter protests, and the intersectionality of Pride and the BLM movement was something I thought of constantly. These protests were also the only place we got to gather. This year we can do both. There’s still a lot of protesting to be done, but we now can gather in small groups, thanks to the vaccine.

It sounds like even though last year was obviously horrible, not being able to gather for Pride also let you connect with it on a different level.
Exactly. I mean, Pride was a protest! Last year was a clear representation of how far away we’ve gotten from what Pride celebrations can be. You can protest something and still celebrate each other. Celebrating with food and dessert — they can coexist.

That’s a perfect segue into talking about your choose-your-own-adventure pavlova recipe for Pride this year. Tell me why it brings you joy right now.
Pavlova is endlessly adaptable because the base is so neutral and delicious. It’s a place to really get creative. You can make small ones, individual ones, and even sheet pan-sized pavlovas. You can also add loads of different herbs and spices to the meringue (as long as they don’t add too much extra moisture). For toppings, you can use seasonal fruit, fresh flowers, sprinkles, sparkly sugar, candles, toasted nuts — the world is your oyster. It can also easily be made gluten- and dairy-free. And as a savory chef, I also love that it’s never too heavy for the end of a meal. It’s creamy, crunchy, and fruity: I could go on! 

And what makes it perfect for Pride this year?
Pavlovas are my ideal dinner-party dessert because they’re best eaten the first day you make them, which means you want to have friends around to share them with. Pavlovas are also so bright and punchy, and we all deserve a refreshing surprise after a very, very hard year. 

Is there anything our readers need to know about this dessert before making it?
The only true guidelines for customizing your pavlova are paying attention to the seasons and choosing your toppings accordingly. I typically have both a creamy element to balance the crunch of the meringue, and a tart element to balance it’s sweetness. Here are some combos that I love.

• Poppyseed pavlova with citrus curd, whipped cream, fresh raspberries, and candied citrus peel
• Cardamom pavlova with coconut cream, passion fruit, kiwi, mango, sesame, and lime (this is what I’m making for Pride specifically, this year)
• Sweet potato and apple cider caramel pavlova with pecan streusel and sour cream whipped cream