Sara Kate Gillingham's Recent Articles
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Reader Recipe: Abby’s Blueberry Pie
“I think it looks a little sad because I used my glass pie plate which is a deeper than I remembered so it doesn’t have that nice plumped up effect. It’s based on a family recipe that both my mother and my grandmother made, which we all tend to play fast and loose with. This pie combines half cooked fruit with half fresh fruit, so you can sugar and spice up the cooked part but still get the freshness of the raw fruit. ” (Thanks, Abby!
Jul 5, 2006
Recipe: Basil or Mint Sorbet
There was a special request for a basil or mint sorbet. This is a little more tricky, since there isn’t much there there when it comes to herbs and their volume. A handful of mint doesn’t have the same effect as a handful of berries, especially when there’s no dairy base to hold up the flavor. In many dessert recipes, apples are used as a base when bulk is needed, but not an overwhelming flavor.
Jun 30, 2006
Recipe: Aïoli
This garlicly mayonnaise goes well with raw vegetables, and all grilled foods, so we like to serve it during the summer, but it is also a nice accompaniment to meats and fish cooked in other ways.Experiment by adding other flavors such as saffron, chipotle chile powder, or fresh herbs.
Jun 27, 2006
The Celluloid Pantry: Gelato and Roman Holiday (1953)
Some of the sweetest treats can be savored on the run. In Roman Holiday (1953), Princess Ann (Audrey Hepburn) does just that. Exhausted by her duties as visiting ambassador, but hungry for an authentic taste of Rome, the princess makes her escape. After an evening meal of milk and crackers served on a silver tray, she steals away from the palace, out onto the bustling cobbled streets. But then the sedatives kick in.
Jun 27, 2006
Recipe: Poor Man’s Parmesan
A Sicilian friend who once visited us for the weekend and offered to make lunch, taught me a great substitute for Parmesan. We’d run out, and his pasta dish commanded a topping. So he fried up some bread crumbs and declared them “Poor Man’s Parmesan” with a very Southern Italian flick of the wrist and lift of the eyebrows.
Jun 26, 2006
Some Facts About Ice Cream
Did you break out the ice cream maker this weekend? Our recipe for Basic Vanilla Ice Cream was intended to get you started. We’ll assume this is a weekend project for you so we’ll share recipes late in the week, and other important summer ice cream making information earlier in the week. Today, we have a look at a rundown of the different kinds of ice cream.
Jun 19, 2006
Recipe: Basic Vanilla Ice Cream
When you’re facing a whole season of ice cream making ahead of you, it’s good to review the basics. There are two kinds of ice cream, as far as the home-cook is concerned: those made custard-style, and those not. I find that knowing the custard-method down pat is important, and a great springboard for other flavors. So as you gear up for a warm summer weekend, I hereby arm you with a Basic Vanilla Ice Cream recipe.
Jun 15, 2006
Surfas Commercial Kitchen Supply
One of the pleasures of going to a new city is finding the shops you don’t have in your own city. As our world gets smaller and smaller, this is an experience that is harder to come by. Surfas is one of those special places. Surfas is commercial restaurant supply meets chef’s boutique. When I’m in LA, Culver City isn’t exactly my favorite place to visit, but it’s worth it just to go to Surfas and browse the aisles, or stock up on baking supplies.
Jun 6, 2006
Recipe: Coffee Chip Ice Cream
Last week in an Open Thread, a reader left an inquiry for Coffee Chip Ice Cream. LED, this one is for you:Coffee Chip Ice CreamMakes about 1 quart 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder2 cups heavy cream2 cups milk1/2 cup dark coffee grounds8 egg yolks3/4 cup sugar8 oz. semi-sweet chocolate, chopped fine, or 8 oz. mini chocolate chipsIn a medium saucepan, heat the espresso powder, cream, milk, and coffee grounds until simmering. Remove from the heat and let stand about 20 minutes.
Jun 5, 2006
Recipe: Margaritas To Make Men & Women Giggle
We’ve been drinking these margaritas for as long as we can remember, and I mean year-round.Right about now as the days get longer and warmer, the rest of the world catches up and decides it’s margarita time. With Cinco de Mayo celebrated today, what better time to share the recipe? Watch out, they’re strong.
May 5, 2006
Word of Mouth: Chalazae
chalazae [kuh-LAY-zee] You’re totally grossed out by these, and the words “umbilical cord,” “sperm,” or “embryo” may have crossed your mind a few times upon encountering these thick, ropey strands of egg white that are often attached to an egg yolk. Relax. The chalazae’s only role is to anchor the egg yolk to the center of the egg.
May 3, 2006
April was Poetry Month: M.F. K. Fisher
Adieu to Stacey and her April poetry posts: The passage excerpted here isn’t poetry, though it did inspire a poem worth reading. (W.H. Auden’s “Tonight at 7:30”). Auden dedicated his poem to M.F.K. Fisher, who wrote the following prescription for gastronomic perfection. It comes to mind because those who are doing “The Cure” will soon be hosting dinner parties. It’s good to keep these rules in mind, even if one disagrees with and breaks them.
May 1, 2006
Recipe: Bermudian Rum Cake
We celebrated the birthday of a Bermudian friend a few nights ago. On the menu were Dark & Stormies and Rum Cake, of course. Being with child, I did not gulp a D&S, but I did enjoy the cake. The recipe, in its original form, comes from the birthday boy’s mother in Bermuda, who gets it from Bacardi.
Apr 26, 2006
April is Poetry Month: To Jacques Pépin by Shanna Compton
From Stacey: “Here’s a terrific poem from Brooklyn-by-way-of-Texas poet Shanna Compton. Many may have read it when it first ran in Gastronomica. Like cream, it quickly rose to the surface where poet Paul Muldoon scooped it up for his Best American Poetry 2005 (Scribner). It is a terrific example of how writing about food so often gives way to something else entirely.”To Jacques Pépin Touch mewith your impeccably clean hands.Go ahead: Say beutter, instead of butter.
Apr 24, 2006
Good Question: Pastry Flour vs. Cake Flour
Dear Kitchen,I’m confused about the difference between pastry flour and cake flour? Can I use them interchangeably?Thanks,Rita (To All Good Questions)Dear Rita,It all has to do with protein.Pastry flour contains 8.5% – 9.5% protein, which is low relative to all purpose (10% – 12% protein) and bread flour (12% – 13% protein). It is used in delicate cakes and pastries, pie crusts, cookies and muffins. . Absorbs less liquid in recipes.
Apr 20, 2006
In Season: Ramps
Nothing says ‘spring’ like ramps. The first time I encountered ramps was when I’d just finished college lived with a couple who graciously took me in to their house in a suburb outside of New York City for a few months while I hunted for an apartment of my own. That spring I was treated to the fruits of David’s labors; he would regularly comb the forest floor for culinary morsels, most notably, ramps.
Apr 20, 2006
Good Question: Mild Olive Oil
Dear The Kitchen,Does anyone have any advice about olive oils? I feel like I just can’t win. Last night I bought a small $12 bottle to use in a dressing for a salad and was extremely disappointed – it was very harsh and had a sharp spicy aftertaste. I never seem to find olive oils that are mild and good for dipping, like at a good Italian restaurant, and make tasty dressings. Any favorite olive oils that people can suggest?
Apr 19, 2006
Recipe: Goat Cheese and Shrimp Ravioli
Great news: shrimp have moved up on the Blue Ocean Institute’s Guide to Ocean Friendly Seafood, and with the news, a craving for shrimp hit me hard. We were having some friends over for Sunday supper, so I decided to get the pasta machine out, and make a shrimp ravioli. It turned out beautifully – and enjoying that fresh shrimp flavour guilt-free was wonderful.
Apr 12, 2006
Mile High Lemon Meringue Cake
Hungry and thumbing through the Passover catering catalog from Eli Zabar’s that dropped out of my newspaper recently, I came across this gorgeous photo of their Mile High Lemon Meringue Cake and had an emergency drooling situation on my hands. Normally, I’m not a big meringue person, but this cake is so beautifully executed, it’s hard to recall those early childhood memories of meringue that didn’t do me right. And this is no pie, folks, this is a flourless cake.
Apr 7, 2006
Recipe: Pasta With Greens and Feta
Here’s a recipe from a reader, SarahW, for a simple pasta dish using Swiss Chard (it’s been a hot topic of discussion on the Open Threads for a while) and Feta cheese. With greens such as spinach about to come into season on the East Coast, this would make a great spring dish. Pasta With Greens and Feta 6 Tbsp. olive oil (or less) 4 cups chopped onion 8 cups packed chopped bitter greens (e.g.
Apr 7, 2006
Recipe: Compotée d’Osso Buco
Ouch. Pictures don’t lie, do they? Over the weekend, my cooking pal, Amy, and I attempted to re-create the Compotée d’Osso Buco that we had one afternoon in Paris (above, left). Pierre, the chef, had given Amy a loose idea of how he made it, so armed with a few notes, we hit the stove.We started with a great cut of veal from Florence Prime Meats (5 Jones Street @ West 4th, NYC), then followed Pierre’s vague instructions, adding a little of our own instinct.
Apr 4, 2006
April is Poetry Month: Crazy About Her Shrimp by Charles Simic
Crazy About Her Shrimp We don’t even take time To come up for air. We keep our mouths full and busy Eating bread and cheese And smooching in between. No sooner have we made love Than we are back in the kitchen. While I chop the hot peppers, She grins at me And stirs the shrimp on the stove. How good the wine tastes That has run red Out of a laughing mouth! Down her chin And on to her naked tits. “I’m getting fat,” she says, Turning this way and that way Before the mirror.
Apr 1, 2006
What’s the Deal with Magnetic Knife Strips?
The issue of knife storage came up in a recent post, specifically whether or not magnetic strips were a good way to keep one’s knives. My mom says the strips pull the edge out of whack. Being a professional, she keeps her finest in a knife roll, and her “everyday” (which are pretty darn nice) in a wooden rack fashioned by my grandfather and screwed to the side of the wooden butcher block. I don’t have that kind of space. We have a strip.
Mar 28, 2006
Vintage Gear: Dansk Kobenstyle
A striking kitchen shot from one of Friday’s Smallest, Coolest Apartment Contest entries at Apartment Therapy sparked a lot of discussion about a little yellow pot. Guido was quick to ID it as Dansk, cooking show appearances made Laura a longtime admirer, Tat recommended one to a friend, Jean generously shared her secret DC source, and Melinda recalled getting one as a wedding present.
Mar 27, 2006
Corned Beef Four Ways
In honor of St. Patrick’s Day, folks on yesterday’s open thread chatted about how to make corned beef. Several suggestions rolled in: • Faith pointed our attention to Slashfood’s “Corned Beef and Cabbage: Do you do it, and how?” • DrewB gave us his mom’s technique: “Remove it from the bag, wash off the brine, soak in two or three changes of cold water overnight.
Mar 16, 2006
Recipe: Black Bean Soft Taco
Dare we call this a recipe? Really, it is more of a snacky reminder, in list-form, of the deliciousness of its ingredients – who doesn’t love a black bean and Queso Fresco? Black Bean Soft Taco serves 1, as a snack or a side 1 corn tortilla 1/4 cup cooked black beans dash ground cumin dash of salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tablepsoons crumbled Queso Fresco (or Feta cheese) A few pinches chopped cilantro In a skillet over a medium flame, warm the tortilla for a few second.
Mar 9, 2006
Recipe: Cellar Hole Granola
We gobbled up this granola all weekend. Sprinkled over yogurt, swimming in milk (cold or warm), or eaten by the handful, it was hearty and satisfying, without being too sweet. Try experimenting with other dried fruits and spices if those listed aren’t your favorites.(Thanks, Stacy!
Mar 1, 2006
Technique: Seasoning a Brand New Cast Iron Skillet
With plans this weekend to make Big PancakeBroadway Panhandler Here’s the step-by-step guide: 1. Pre-heat oven to 325° 2. Wash skillet with warm, soapy water and dry thoroughly. 3. Apply a thin coat of vegetable oil, or vegetable shortening with a paper towel on all surfaces, inside and out. 4. Place in oven on center rack, upside down. Place a baking sheet or a sheet of foil on the rack beneath to catch drippings. 5.
Feb 27, 2006
The Celluloid Pantry: Lobster from 21 and Rear Window (1954)
Sometimes a romantic dinner in means bringing the restaurant home. In Rear Window (1954), socialite Lisa Fremont (Grace Kelly) has a tray from the 21 Club brought downtown to her boyfriend’s, L.B “Jeff” Jeffries (James Stewart), Greenwich Village apartment. Laid up with a broken leg, Jeff watches in bemused amazement as Lisa unveils a nice Montrachet rosé, broiled spiny lobster, and one of 21’s signature checked tablecloths.
Feb 7, 2006
How to Caramelize Sugar
here was a good bit of chatter on the weekend open thread about how to caramelize sugar. Readers really came through for one another with some great tips. Of course, the technique depends on what you’re using the caramel for, so care should be taken to note in your recipe what kind of caramel is called for. For example, the caramel needed for caramel candies is much less cooked than what’s needed for spun sugar.
Feb 6, 2006
Good Question: Thawing Berry Emergency!
Dear The Kitchen,Please help! My sister in law delivered to me this morning a 5 lb. bag of completely thawed raspberries and a 5 lb. bag of thawed blueberries (&, btw, a thawed 2 lb. bag of peas). Her freezer is not working & she knows I (usually) have a good imagination & do cook/bake. What can I make? Something that can be stored/frozen-well, actually, anything! Will appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
Feb 3, 2006
The Celluloid Pantry: Beignets and Mon Oncle (France, 1958)
The subtitles call them crullers, but they’re known by many names: beavertails in Canada, churros in Mexico, zepoles in Italy, and malasadas in Hawaii. Every cuisine seems to have its own version of this classic street food of fried dough served hot, with a light dusting of sugar.
Feb 1, 2006
Good Question: Baked Treats for the Office
Dear The Kitchen,For the past few months I’ve been making some fun baked goods to bring into my office to help ease the stress. It’s gotten to the point where people look for my arrival on Mondays to see if I’ve brought anything in.
Jan 26, 2006
The Celluloid Pantry: The Bronx and The Thin Man (1934)
Introducing a new Guest Writer: Nora will be contributing pieces on food and drink in cinema. Her feature, “The Celluloid Pantry,” promises to feature off-beat films not typically known as food movies (“no Big Night, Babette’s Feast, super-recent or super-commercial”). Nora has an ever-growing collection of over 500 DVDs, so you can bet she won’t mess around. Welcome, Nora!
Jan 24, 2006
Good Question: Cleaning Ceramic Mortar and Pestle
Dear The Kitchen,I was recently given a beautiful, cream coloured ceramic mortar and pestle. I’m dying to use it, but have no idea how to clean it (and it came with no instructions!). Can I just give it a wash in some warm soapy water?Thanks, Mairi (To All Good Questions)Dear Mairi,If your mortar and pestle has an unglazed interior, the best way to clean it is to rinse it out and let it drip dry.
Jan 20, 2006
Cooking By Numbers: Computer Assisted Cooking is an ingenious little UK-based site that will put the contents of your refrigerator and pantry into a formula and spit out recipes so you can cook with what you already have. Brilliant! Tom Tuke-Hastings, the site’s creator (and author of The Art of the Vodka Jelly) says “Don’t bother going shopping, let’s cook with what you have.” Amen.
Dec 13, 2005
Recipe: Mexican Hot Chocolate
Readers requested a great hot chocolate recipe to serve this holiday. Here’s one my mother used to make every Christmas morning.Mexican Hot Chocolateserves 41 quart milk (whole milk if you’re feeling decadent, lowfat if you’re holding back) 2 tablets Ibarra Mexican chocolate* (3.3 oz each), broken into small piecesHeat milk until just about to boil, do not allow to boil over.Place half of the chocolate in a blender.
Dec 12, 2005
Getting Ready for Thanksgiving: Turkey Tips
(We promise, this is the last discussion of turkey until next year.) To determine what size turkey to buy, count on each person eating 1/2 – 3/4 pounds of meat. If you want guaranteed leftovers, plan on 1 pound for each person. Remove the your fresh turkey from the refrigerator at least a half hour (no more than an hour) before putting it in the oven.
Nov 21, 2005
Recipe: Beet Box
This is a Restaurant Reproduction from Little Giant, a wonderful little restaurant on the Lower East Side serving “Seasonal American” food. Sautéing the beet greens in the pancetta may not be how it’s done at the restaurant, but we really liked the flavor. Of course, you can simply sauté in olive oil instead.
Nov 7, 2005
Recipe: Warm Artichoke Salad with Pancetta and Sheep’s Milk Cheese
We were too tired to cook last night. So we went to one of our favorite no-reservations-needed little gems: Grano Trattoria (21 Greenwich Avenue @ 10th Street). There is a salad on the menu that they call Carciofini alla Romana, but our Italian isn’t that advanced, so we’re going with Warm Artichoke Salad with Pancetta and Sheep’s Milk Cheese. It always pleases our palates. Max goes so far as to say it gets better each time. Possible.
Oct 3, 2005
Store Review: Lehman’s Non-Electric Catalog
Lehman’s Non-Electric Catalog just arrived. With over two-hundred new products “for simple self-sufficient living,” and temptingly low prices, it can be a little overwhelming. After all, the point is to not amass more stuff. The point is to only have what you need.
Sep 13, 2005