About Nora Singley
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Stinky! A Profile of Washed Rind Cheeses The Cheesemonger
They’re the stinkiest of any cheese you’ll find behind the counter. They’re the ones that make you search your refrigerator for something that’s gone bad. In this week’s Cheesemonger column, a profile on the washed rind family of cheeses: how to pick them out, some of the best even for the non-converts, and understanding the difference between a bad stink and a good one.
May 3, 2019
The Fish and Cheese Debate The Cheesemonger
There’s no official legislation outlawing the presence of fish and cheese on the same plate, but for many Italians — and those of us who would wish to remain in their gastronomic good graces — there is no greater offense. To finish a fish-focused pasta with parmigiano would have many an Italian nonna rising from their graves to deliver a hefty slap on the wrist.
May 3, 2019
Cheese That Can’t Stand Alone: 10 Uses for Ricotta Salata The Cheesemonger
There are innumerable cheeses that deserve a singular spotlight, the strong, oh-so-uniquely flavored cheeses that don’t like to share the stage with others, so formidable that they’re best enjoyed on their own, without unnecessary, condimental fanfare. But what about a cheese whose merit, more than anything else, lies in its ability to complement other foods? Here, an intro to ricotta salata, the saltier, aged version of its fresher cohort.
May 3, 2019
Cheese Tip: Don’t Eat Cold Cheese! The Cheesemonger
It’s one of the first tenets of cheese etiquette: don’t eat cheese straight from the fridge. Ever.Cold cheese doesn’t taste like much. But how long should you leave a cheese out? And what’s the one thing not to do when bringing your cheese up to room temperature?Cheese is composed largely of fat. And since fat means flavor, the goal is to amplify it as much as possible. When fat molecules are cold, they contract.
May 2, 2019
Cheese: On Melting The Cheesemonger
When cooking with cheese, there’s nothing much worse than choosing the wrong cheese for the wrong application. Mozzarella’s not great as a finisher atop pasta in the same way that parmesan is, for example, because it becomes clumpy and stringy, while a harder cheese like parmesan can become a more cohesive element of the dish. Understanding why cheeses melt in different manners can help keep your fontina on your paninis and your fetas in your salads.
May 2, 2019
Lactose and Cheese: Are You Really Lactose Intolerant? The Cheesemonger
Know anyone who doesn’t eat cheese due to lactose intolerance? Or perhaps you yourself have to turn down cheese because of a lactose allergy? What you probably don’t know is that lactose intolerance should NOT affect cheese consumption. You may actually be suffering from something else!Most cheeses don’t contain lactose! What’s happening when milk turns to cheese is a souring process called acidification, whereby the lactose in milk is converted into lactic acid.
May 2, 2019
Have You Tried: Västerbotten Cheese? The Cheesemonger
It’s hard having a cheesemonger for a daughter. She’s tasted a lot of what’s out there, and (admittedly) can be pretty snobby when it comes to cheese. Take it from my parents, who continually try to impress and please me with new cheeses when I go for visits. (It’s they who have the love affair with Jarlsberg Light, remember that?) But just this week, they made serious progress.
May 2, 2019
Have Cheese, Will Fly: What Cheeses Travel Well The Cheesemonger
I remember my years behind the cheese counter distinctly. But around the holidays, my days would blur together, with endless hours and perpetual lines of people needing cheese. One question was consistent, anxiety-ridden and almost deja vu-like in its repetitiveness: “I’m flying. I want to bring cheese. But can I?” The simple answer is yes.
May 2, 2019
The Perils and Joys: Cheese Souffl&eacute
Soufflés don’t play the middle ground very well: they’re either good or bad. Your success as creator hinges on the height of the rise (assuming it rises), the fluffiness of that rise, the doneness of the middle, and your ability to feed your guests before the inevitable collapse.With the quaint recipe for one in Judith Jones’ new book, The Pleasures of Cooking for One, you not only evade the perilous task of making a souffle for 6 or 8, you can also make it tonight.
May 2, 2019
Just Scramble: The Best Cheese for Eggs
With eggs this pretty you don’t want to futz much. Farm-fresh eggs like these need little enhancement — not much more than some butter and a warm pan, unless you’re like me, in which case the thought of eating eggs without cheese will make you very, very sad. Picking a cheese for your eggs might seem like a no-brainer: choose something with meltability that you have on hand.
May 2, 2019
Make Cheese at Home: Fresh Buttermilk Cheese
So easy. Pretty tasty. Endless variations. Never made cheese before? That could change– tonight, if you’d like– and all you need are three ingredients. And we’d bet you already have them waiting for you at home. The process from start to finish? 15 minutes tops.We’ve made fresh cheese before– paneer, queso fresco, ricotta, mozzarella.
May 2, 2019
A Cheese Worth Finding: Jura Erguel
We took a trip to one of our most trusted sources for cheese in Manhattan the other day, looking for a great cheese for beer. What we found did the trick, but it could just as easily stand all by its lonesome, without the aid of any pairing beverage. It’s now officially this cheesemonger’s new favorite cheese. And the story behind it ain’t bad, either.
May 2, 2019
Take Your Cheddar One Step Further: Cheddar and Green Chile Waffles with Thyme Maple Syrup
Put this recipe at the head of your “To Make” list immediately. It’s ideal for brunch, but if you like breakfast for dinner, then this savory waffle recipe will be seriously soul-satisfying. And the best part? Obviously, it’s the cheese.
May 2, 2019
What You Might Not Know: Not All Cheeses Are Vegetarian!
It’s true! In fact, most cheeses aren’t vegetarian, especially European ones and those that are modeled after Old World recipes and techniques. But don’t start cheese fretting yet — there are tons of great vegetarian cheeses, and with our recommended list in hand you won’t go wrong.First things first: Cheese becomes cheese through a process called acidification.
May 2, 2019
All About Pecorino
What’s in a name, anyway? In this case, pecorino is a very general definition of a style of cheese, but it’s one with an incredible range of flavors.Here, a guide to some of the most popular pecorinos, and what to be wary of, too. With a better grasp of the differences among all the types, you can stop wondering about which kind to grab when you’re cooking or snacking.The word “pecorino” comes from “pecora,” meaning sheep, in Italian.
May 2, 2019
Can You, Should You Freeze Cheese? On Freezing Cheese
Some say freezing cheese is sacrilege, some think it’s only logical. On what side do you fall? And from a cheese professional’s point of view, what’s the reasoning for taking or not taking the icy plunge? I’m pretty definitive on the issue: Don’t freeze your cheese! But, as in most cheese matters, all rules are up to interpretation. So perhaps I should restate. Don’t freeze fine cheese.
May 2, 2019
Why Does My Cheese Look Wet?
Does your cheese do this? If you’re a big cheese eater, tear-like dew drops on the surface of your cheese probably look pretty familiar, especially if your cheese has been sitting out for awhile. What exactly is happening and is there some way to make your cheese behave? Cheese is made up primarily of coagulated milk solids, or curd.
May 2, 2019
This Mold’s Fur Real: Cheese Mold in Bloom
Nope, this picture isn’t out of focus, the cheese is truly as fuzzy as it looks. The French call it cat fur, or poil de chat. And for good reason, as the mold on this particular family of cheese is pretty reminiscent of the coat of your furry friend. But don’t fear: it’s a mold that belongs to one of the most coveted types of cheese, and without it, there would be many sad cheese lovers, indeed.
May 2, 2019
The Ultimate: Giant Cheese Popovers
We’ve written about popovers before. But have you ever had cheesy popovers? So easy, we promise. And even more impressive.Popover batter is essentially the same as crepe batter. But while the crepe is by nature totally flat, a popover is anything but.The pop-ability of a popover relies on high heat and a tall, narrow cooking vessel. A popover pan encourages steam, as does the wet batter.
May 2, 2019
Booze’s Best Bud: Drunken Goat Cheese
Some cheeses have natural pairing affinity for beverages of all types and would go equally well with a beer as with a glass of cranberry juice. Other cheeses are just better enjoyed on their own. And then there are the cheeses that are made to match with wine, beer, spirits, cocktails, or anything else potent, as if it’s their destiny to play the role of pairing partner to your Happy Hour beverage.
May 2, 2019
Another Way to Salt: Pecorino Romano
It’s stupefying sometimes how salt is so critical to making flavors pop. And if you’re a salt fiend, “critical” is probably an understatement. In essence, salt is a booster of all things delicious.But what if you could boost your food in a different kind of way by varying how your salt makes its way into your food? Like, with cheese.
May 2, 2019
Pecorino Cacio di Roma: A Find for Sheep Lovers
Last week we covered Pecorino Romano. Great for cooking, but for eating? Not so much. If you love pecorino on the table as much as in the dish, check out this week’s feature. It’s a little trickier to find, but Italian specialty stores should have it. And since it’s the main feature of one of the most classic Roman pasta recipes around, you won’t be sorry to have made an effort to seek it out.
May 2, 2019
Cheese Review: Trader Joe’s Cinnamon Cheese
I don’t need much convincing to try a new cheese. When someone suggests something I’ve never heard of I generally add it to my “to try” list. But more often than not, I’m plagued by the same kind of forgetfulness that accompanies trips to the video store, when you can’t seem to remember the dozens of must-see titles that you swore you wouldn’t forget.
May 2, 2019
How Much Milk Makes One Pound of Cheese?
You may be surprised. And the answer might even help justify your spending a lot on really nice cheese; more raw material goes into making cheese than you think. Here’s betting that you’ll start appreciating each morsel just a little bit more. Get the answer, plus other cow, sheep, and goat milk musings, after the jump. 1 pound of cheese requires 10 pounds (or about 5 quarts) of cow or goat milk and about 6 pounds of sheep milk.
May 2, 2019
The Best Shape? Wagon Wheel Mac n’ Cheese
The other night, I was laid up with a bad kitchen injury and a dear friend offered to make me dinner. Little did I know that she’d inspire not only a cheese column but also the future of my mac n’ cheese making.My friend’s mac n’ cheese is actually her signature dish, so her skills are already pretty solid. A key element, of course, is high-quality cheese, of which she has a range of trusted picks.
May 2, 2019
A Worthy Replacement for Parm: Sartori SarVecchio
When it comes to cooking, it’s not unusual for Parmigiano Reggiano to factor disproportionately into your arsenal of recipes. Especially now, when everything seems to be gratin-ed, casserole-ed, or pudding-ed, anything that can act as a sub is more than welcome, especially if it comes with not only a lower price tag, but also an equally amazing taste.
May 2, 2019
Overlooked, but Not Forgotten: In Praise of Fontina
I often look through my cheese drawer for cheese column inspiration. If it’s full, I’ve got a lot to draw on. But it’s often the same couple of cheeses that I’ve already written about, my absolute favorites or my personal staples.Last night, I scrounged around, and quickly overlooked a certain cheese that falls into both of those categories, convinced that I’d written about it before.
May 2, 2019
The Closest Cheese to Fudge: Gjetost
Say it: “Yay-toast.” Have you tried this cheese?It’s Norwegian, and although the name translates directly to “goat cheese,” chances are that this cheese tastes just about as far from any you’ve had before. Gjetost is as sweet as caramel, with the texture of a dense, buttery fudge. Until this week, I’d really only thought to use Gjetost as part of a dessert course.
May 2, 2019
The Uncanny Tastiness of Burrata: It’s That Good
Burrata means “buttered” in Italian. It’s that rich. What it really is, though, is fresh cheese at its best. At first glance, burrata resembles a ball of mozzarella. But upon further scrutiny, it’s clear that this round of cheese is softer, and indeed, when cut, has an interior that spills out, revealing soft, stringy curd and fresh cream. If you’re a lover of mozzarella, ricotta, or really anything that’s straight-up creamy, this cheese is so what you want.
May 2, 2019
The Best Grilled Cheese Sandwich: Courtesy of My Dad
Maybe I should have waited until Father’s Day to feature my dad and his particulars when it comes to a cheese-related topic, but considering our lunch theme this week, I thought this may be appropriate nonetheless.My dad doesn’t cook. At all. Except for one thing, which happens to be particularly satisfying at lunchtime: grilled cheese sandwiches.I follow this simple process, as written by my dad, which I happened to dig up recently during a big cleanup of my food files.
May 2, 2019
How To Eat Cheese for Dessert: A Trio for Your Cheese Plate
Might you be close-minded to the thought of cheese for dessert? People tend to be pretty split on the matter: either they’re on board, or they’re not. For us believers, there’s nothing better than ending a meal with a hunk of cheese and a sweet accompaniment. All that could improve the scenario would be a pour of some delicious dessert wine or sherry. If you’re a skeptic, though, you may need some more convincing.
May 2, 2019
Try This: Sheep and Goat Milk Goudas
First things first: Real goudas — that is, cheeses that are made in Holland, aged for years, and that taste sweet, nutty, and complex — are worth seeking out. They’re different than those red-wax, semi-soft pucks, often of the smoked variety. I’ve had the fortune of witnessing many people taste real gouda for the first time. These are very grateful people.
May 2, 2019
What Not To Pair: Cheese Pairings to Avoid
We talk a lot about what makes a great pairing when it comes to cheese, wine, and food. And since cheese is so rarely— really, too rarely, in our opinion— enjoyed just entirely on its own, it’s especially important to know what foods will heighten your experience of the cheeses you serve. Equally vital is knowing what not to do. (Oranges and carrots, for example, are just a preview of two things that just won’t make your cheese sing.
May 2, 2019
How the Pros Taste: The Cheese Trier
How’s a cheesemaker to know when a cheese is done aging, without breaking into the entire wheel? To ripen properly — never mind evenly — cheeses need to remain whole, so it’s pretty wasteful to remove an entire test slice for the sole purpose of tasting how it’s coming along.But cheesemaking isn’t guesswork, and sometimes it’s necessary to figure out what’s going on beneath the rind. Luckily, there’s a tool that does just this.
May 2, 2019
Seek It Out: Grana Padano
I’ve been proven wrong again. By myself.For some reason, I’ve always — for years — overlooked Grana Padano. I regarded it as a pedestrian, somewhat boring cheese. And maybe it’s because I likened it to a lesser version of Parmigiano Reggiano, which is a cheese that I’ve always felt gets too much attention, anyway.I’ve been just about as wrong as a cheesemonger can be.
May 2, 2019
Make This Now: Savory Cheese Pie Crust
I feel like I say this a lot, especially when it comes to cheese: I’ve been meaning to talk about something for a long time. This time, it’s about a certain cheesy pie crust, which can instantly enhance any savory hand pie, turnover, meat pie, galette, or rustic vegetable tart. I’ve even been tempted to use it in a sweet application. It’s just that good.
May 2, 2019
All You Ever Wanted to Know About Provolone
Yesterday, I looked in the dairy section of my workplace’s walk-in refrigerator, as I often do, for inspiration for this column. There sat a sad wedge of provolone, and I pulled it out, along with a small knife. Little by little, it began to disappear. (I use the passive voice here in order not to incriminate myself and my weakness for cheese — be it even the pathetic-looking leftovers.
May 2, 2019
Quick and Impressive: Gruyere and Hazelnut Crackers
When everything now seems to be made from scratch, or else, why oh why do people never make crackers? These are easy! Promise! And they’re surprisingly, gloriously un-cracker-like. They look pretty cute on a cheese board, too, all cheesy-colored and toasty-tasting.And while I’m not the biggest fan of serving crackers with cheese, somehow that all changes when the crackers are homemade. (And seriously addictive.
May 2, 2019
A Cheese-Worthy Recipe: Date and Cherry Nut Bread
My very, very favorite kind of bread to pair with cheese is one that’s studded with dried fruit and nuts. There’s something about the sweet-savory combination of elements in a loaf of this variety that’s versatile enough to match any type of cheese. And match it well, to boot.But so often, a good fruit and nut bread is either hard to find, or just not that great.So I figured it was about time to start making my own.
May 2, 2019
Homemade Gift Recipe: Red Onion & Golden Raisin Jam
I’ve been off of membrillo and honey for awhile now. They’re great for cheese because they’re downright tasty, but it’s been awhile since I’ve actually served them. I’m not a big dresser-upper of my cheese anyway, and often think that anything more than an excellent bread is extraneous. But if the condiment is a true cheese enhancer, I can be easily convinced otherwise.Consider me the ideal candidate to receive a gift of a jam like this.
May 2, 2019
3 Tips for Making the Cheesiest, Most Over-the-Top Mac ‘n’ Cheese of Your Life
Even though we’ve covered the topic of macaroni and cheese many, many times, the subject is somehow never overdone. (It’s just that tasty.)Two evenings ago, I came across the best I’ve had in recent memory, and it is numbered now among some of the most standout versions I’ve ever tasted. This particular incarnation had three unique elements that could make a difference in the way that you make your mac n’ cheese.
May 2, 2019
Nacho Tips & Recipe: The Ultimate Nacho Cheese Sauce
A couple of years ago I developed a recipe for a nacho cheese sauce that I now use as a template for many an extrapolation on a theme, subbing in different spices and add-ins for variation. It is so, so good. But first, you have to understand that great nachos begin with an even better cheese sauce. This one starts with a bechamel and combines two cheeses, plus spices, fresh tomatoes, and beer.
May 2, 2019
Soup Base Recipe: Parmesan Stock
You probably know that Parmesan rinds give excellent flavor to soups. Take this concept one step further by boosting your chicken or vegetable stocks with the flavor of Parm, too. With the addition of rinds, you’ll get an incredible base for soups and stews that’s entirely unique from any standard stock. I’ve talked before about making a Parm broth; what follows is a recipe for something even more tasty.
May 2, 2019
All the Colors of the Rainbow: Cheese Colors Explained
We all know that cheeses can come in various shades of colors. It’s actually kind of interesting to understand where these hues come from.And what you might not realize is that knowing a bit about a cheese’s color can inform your palate, as well. Herein, a cheat sheet divulging the why’s behind those oranges, whites, blues, and yellows.I remember growing up with a preference for white cheddar.
May 2, 2019
13 Cheeses Everyone Should Know
I was recently inspired by a Serious Eats roundup of the 13 cheeses they thought everyone should know. I took a quick glance at their list and then abruptly turned away. How many overlaps would there be if I compiled my own collection of must-have cheeses, I wondered? Surprisingly, only FOUR. Thanks to my shamefully pathetic memory, I quickly forgot all of what I saw on the Serious Eats list and promptly started my own. It took all of two minutes to compile.
May 2, 2019
Recipe: Fava Beans and Peas with Burrata
I think I’ve found my new go-to appetizer for the next couple of months. And based on the reaction it provoked on its debut last weekend, I don’t fear that it’ll get played out. This combination of creamy burrata, crisp toasts, and a mountain of fresh peas and fava beans is seriously tasty, and it seriously screams spring. The trick here is to get excellent burrata.
May 2, 2019
Black and Blue: My New Favorite Way to Serve Blue Cheese
The combination seems almost obvious now, but even after all these years working with cheese, I only came upon this last week. I’ve already started proselytizing about the merits of this duo, making a convert of a close friend. She served it to raving guests at her own dinner party over the weekend.When it comes to this quick and elegant way to serve blue cheese, it’s pretty easy to become a believer.Blue cheese and blackberries. It’s that simple.
May 2, 2019
5 Tips for Pairing Red Wine and Cheese
There’s a pretty great rule of thumb when it comes to pairing wine with cheese: stick with white wine. It’s safer because whites have significantly lower levels of tannin, and they’re often lighter in body, which complements rather than overwhelms the flavors in cheese.But what if you prefer red wine? Luckily, rules about pairing wine and cheese are meant to be broken. Following are a few tips for choosing the best red for your wedge.This week, I called in for backup.
May 2, 2019