Kitchn Archive - 2025
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Gourmet Magazine’s Favorite Cookies: 1941-2008
Sixty-seven years of amazing cookies — 1941-2008. That’s what Gourmet Magazine is featuring on their website right now. They went back through every year of their magazine’s history and chose a favorite cookie from each year.It’s like a time capsule back to their early days inthe 40s and 50s and all through the 60s, 70s, 80s, and 90s. They give a quick recap of each decade and some of the new influences in each.The real stars of course are the cookies.
Dec 5, 2008
Good Question: Help! How Do I Caramelize Sugar With a Kitchen Torch?
Here’s a question from reader Donna. She is just learning to use a kitchen torch to caramelize sugar, and it’s not going well. She writes:I have a kitchen torch and CANNOT burn the sugar. I tried brown sugar, granulated and raw sugar and it does not burn. Is it the torch? Should I use turbinado sugar?Donna, the key to getting a good caramelized top is actually using a very thin layer of fine white sugar.
Dec 4, 2008
Ingredient Spotlight: Ham Steak
Before we could start appreciating ham steak as an ingredient in our cooking, we had to first get over childhood memories of thick slabs of oddly pink meat with dry, curling edges plonked directly from the frying pan onto our plate. Shudder. Luckily, quick dinners aren’t all that ham steaks are good for…A ham steak is really just a slice of ham from a whole ham roast.
Dec 3, 2008
Oxtail: What It Is, And What To Do With It
I was watching Iron Chef: Battle Oxtail with my partner the other night, and he turned to me and asked, “What’s oxtail?” This inspired me to write a post on this delicious but relatively unknown cut of meat. Oxtail is the tail of a cow. In olden days, it came from the tail of an ox, but now it comes from the tail of a cow of either sex.
Dec 2, 2008
Winter Wonderland Dinner for Eight on a $100 Budget
We were all fascinated by the swank dinner party on a budget from the Times last weekend, and it also generated quite a bit of discussion yesterday. The general consensus was that the table was gorgeous and magical — a setting for a special dinner that went far beyond our usual small arrangements of flowers and candles. It was breathtaking. But the food — well, it didn’t overwhelm us the way the once-a-year-special, magical realist table setting did.So we went shopping.
Dec 2, 2008
Recipe Recommendation: Ralphie’s Mom’s Braised Red Cabbage from A Christmas Story
Now that it’s officially holiday movie season, we thought we’d highlight a classic recipe from a classic seasonal film – “A Christmas Story.”The movie marks its 25th anniversary this year, so there’s even more celebration of all things Ralphie.My family decided not to wait until December to try Ralphie’s Mom’s Braised Red Cabbage and served it for Thanksgiving instead, but it would be a great addition to any winter meal.
Dec 2, 2008
Food Science: Why Do Crustaceans Turn Reddish-Orange When Cooked?
Have you ever wondered why lobster, shrimp, crab, crawfish, and other crustaceans turn a bright orange-red when cooked? No, they aren’t blushing from embarrassment. It’s a simple question answered with science.Crustaceans have exoskeletons, and while the animal is in the sea, the exoskeleton primarily has a blue-green to grayish color. The exoskeletons contain a carotenoid called astaxanthin. Carotenes are pigments, and astaxanthin is the same carotene that gives salmon its color.
Dec 1, 2008
New Favorite Indulgence: Pear Brandy
Many months ago, we bought a bottle of pear brandy to make a pear clafouti, which turned out to be a disappointment (unlike this berry one, which Faith highly recommends). The brandy sat in a cupboard, forgotten, until we pulled it out to make a version of Nora’s Thanksgiving Poinsettia cocktail.
Dec 1, 2008
Baker’s Techniques: How to do the Windowpane Test when Kneading Bread
The windowpane test is one of the best ways to tell if you’ve sufficiently kneaded your bread dough, though it can sound like a pretty bizarre instruction when you come across it in a recipe! Here’s what you do…First, cut off a small piece of the dough about the size of a golf ball.
Dec 1, 2008
Turkey Giblets: We Got Robbed!
This is our turkey, and it was missing one very important thing that we were looking forward to: the giblets! We love giblets in stuffing, and we were looking forward to putting them in our turkey stock (for gravy) and in the bread dressing itself. Well, lo and behold, when we went in to get them there was only a lone neck – no giblets.But it turns out that, given the kind of turkey we bought, we should have been ready for this. Read on to learn why.See?
Dec 1, 2008
Word of Mouth: Le Trou Normand
Le Trou Normand (luh trew nor-mahnd): A pause in the middle of a meal where everyone has a drink of brandy and then continues to eat.Folklore has it that the shot of alcohol burns a hole (“un trou”) in your stomach so that you can eat more food. This is something we definitely could have used last Thursday!At dinner parties, we tend to eat and drink throughout the evening, one conversation or platter of food simply rolling into the next.
Dec 1, 2008
Tip: Warm The Plates
With Thanksgiving nipping at our heels, it’s a good time to remember all the things that help make a meal a great meal. Here’s one I learned from both my mother and my husband: warm plates make a huge difference.I’ll admit that I don’t warm the plates every time I serve someone food, but when it feels special, I always try to give them a little kiss of warmth. Here are a few ways of doing it.
Nov 26, 2008
Chef Recipe: Pumpkin Ravioli in a Parmesan Fondue with a Red Wine Reduction
Looking for one more dish for Thanksgiving, or maybe a first course appetite-teaser? Maybe you should try this dish of pumpkin ravioli from chef Salvatore Corea of New York City’s Alloro. This is a very fun dish; we love pumpkin ravioli, and the sauces that accompany the pasta here are deceptively easy.Alloro is an Italian restaurant on the Upper East Side – thank you to chef Salvatore Corea for this delicious dish! We’ll be trying it out soon.
Nov 25, 2008
Word of Mouth: Tournée
Tournée (tour-nay): Literally, French for “turned.” In culinary terms, this describes a specific method for preparing and presenting vegetables by cutting them into uniform oblong shapes.If you really want to get fancy this Thanksgiving, you can have a go at “turning” all your vegetables! Just make sure you have a lot of extra time to spare before you start…Starchy vegetables like carrots, potatoes, and parsnips are good candidates for turning.
Nov 24, 2008
Look! Wax-Dipped Pears in France
Here’s a small, colorful note from my time in France last week. At the market some of the pears had dabs of something bright and scarlet on top. What was it?It turns out that all of the stems were dipped in wax to seal them. My market tour guide, Rosa Jackson, told me later in the week that this was done to keep the pears from ripening too quickly.I’ve never seen this done in the States – have you? Does anyone know why keeping the stem sealed prevents ripening?
Nov 20, 2008
Pushing Daisies: The Pies
We know some of you are fans of “Pushing Daisies,” and we recently discussed the show’s honey-related story lines, but we could hardly let this month pass without a mention of the show’s primary food theme: Pie!Read on for recipes from the show, including one that requires a certain magical power.Many of the show’s episodes center around pie, and much of the action takes place at Ned’s restaurant, the Pie Hole.
Nov 19, 2008
How To Cut Carrots into Flowers
Carrot coins? Yawn. Matchsticks? Too much work! Next time you’re making a stew or miso soup or gingered carrots, take a few minutes and make carrot flowers. It’s simple, not too much extra work and the pay-off is big. Carrot flowers add a sweet, graphic visual to your dish and are an effort that is always appreciated. Step-by-step instructions below the jump.
Nov 17, 2008
Cooking Japanese: Oden
Oden is a hearty Japanese stew that is cooked over several days and commonly served during cold winter months. It’s pretty easy to make and most ingredients can be found online or in Japanese supermarkets. It’s got a wonderful, savory flavor and contains an odd melange of ingredients like yam, taro, fish cake, hard boiled eggs, and mushrooms. Even though those food combinations might seem odd to Westerners, oden is a delicious dish that should be tried.
Nov 14, 2008
Tips: Bay Leaves in the Pantry
Why is there a bay leaf in our flour canister?Years ago, in the midst of a moth infestation, we read that bay leaves repel pantry insects. Everyone from beetles to weevils, moths, cockroaches, ants, and flies is said to hate the herb’s fragrance. The leaves can be placed in containers of flour, rice, and other dry goods, or taped inside cupboards and shelves. Of course, this should not preclude other bug deterring efforts like regular cleaning and storing foods in airtight containers.
Nov 14, 2008
Recipe: Sweet Potatoes and Caramelized Onions
We tore through these sweet potatoes before we had the chance to take much of a picture, so we’ll have to describe them instead.These are the easiest things. So much flavor for so little work. We caramelized onions slowly in butter and olive oil (hands off, really – they cook themselves) then browned sweet potatoes and garlic. We let them steam until soft, then added some ginger and paprika for flavor.
Nov 14, 2008
Recipe Rescue! How to Save a Broken Buttercream
If you’ve been baking long enough or simply made enough frosting, surely you’ve had your lovely buttercream break into greasy, grainy clumps of sugary butter at least once. If not, at least tell us you have because it’s certainly happened to us – and significantly more than once, too!
Nov 13, 2008
Recipe: Apple Walnut Bread Pudding
Apples and bread pudding – what could be more well-suited? This is fall dessert at its most comforting. We made this chock-full of autumn flavors – toasted whole wheat bread, fresh picked apples, roasted walnuts, plump raisins. We poured cinnamon cream and eggs over top, baked, and drizzled real homemade Caramel Sauce on top of individual servings.Great for breakfast – we speak from experience! Click through for recipe and another pic.
Nov 13, 2008
Word of Mouth: Unctuous
Unctuous (ung-choo-us) adj.: 1. Having the quality or characteristics of oil, slippery; 2. Containing or composed of oil or fat; 3. Abundant in organic materials, soft and rich.Nora’s post on Forsterkase cheeseTo us, ‘unctuous’ is much more of a texture than a flavor. It’s that feeling of having your entire mouth coated with butter, oil, or sometimes a flavor. It can equally describe the starchy-soft quality of good risotto or the melting richness of bone marrow.
Nov 12, 2008
How Do You Slice an Apple?
We’re not going to claim there’s a right way and a wrong way. But we’re all slicing a lot of apples these days (and will be for months), so we’re wondering how our method compares to yours. See step-by-step photos, below…First we slice it in half, then into quarters.Then, to get out the core, we slice diagonally along the inside of each quarter.
Nov 11, 2008
Quick Tip: Flavor Soups with Cheese Rinds
We go through a healthy amount of Parmesan and Pecorino cheese in our house, and we used to just throw the rind away. This was until we discovered this trick used by chefs and Italian grandmothers for centuries!When your soup or sauce is ready to simmer, throw in an old cheese rind. The rind will soften and the flavors of the cheese will infuse throughout the dish.
Nov 10, 2008
D.I.Y. Recipe: Crystallized Ginger
Spicy and sweet, crystallized ginger can add a wonderful zing to cookies, cakes, ice cream, and cranberry sauce. We also like it finely chopped and sprinkled over savory dishes like roasted acorn squash and pumpkin soup. Chewing on the ginger treat can even help soothe an upset stomach. Although a jar of it can be outrageously expensive at the store, crystallized (or candied) ginger is quite simple to make at home.Use the freshest, most tender and firm (not spongy) ginger root you can find.
Nov 10, 2008
Jacques Pépin Cooks Dinner for Six with $24
It’s easy to get a famous chef to sit for an interview about his latest restaurant or cookbook. But for this article in The Washington Post, the writer took Jacques Pépin shopping at the Giant supermarket to see what the 72-year-old French chef would buy and what he’d make.
Nov 10, 2008
Recipe: Congee, Comfort Food for Frugal Times
I was sick with a bad cold over the weekend and although I was raised a WASP in midwestern USA, when I’m down for the count I usually cook up a big pot of congee, perhaps one of the most ubiquitous of all Asian foods.In my experience, there’s nothing simpler and more comforting than congee, which is basically rice cooked with a lot of liquid until it forms a soft and creamy porridge.
Nov 10, 2008
How and When to Dock a Pie Crust
Though you may sometimes be tempted, docking a pie crust has nothing to do with chucking it off the end of a pier! Like using pie weights, this is another method used when pre-baking a pie crust and is no more complicated than pricking the crust with a fork before baking. More details after the jump…Pricking holes in the rolled-out pie dough allows the steam to escape while it’s baking.
Nov 7, 2008
How To Make Easy Fruit Filling for Pie
We focus a lot on the dough and crust when we talk about pies, since this is often the most intimidating part for new pie-bakers. And yet if your filling isn’t delicious as well, then what’s the point? Fruit filling is what makes us love pie. The opportunity to use fresh, seasonal fruit with a minimum of preparation or fuss, letting the fruit’s flavors shine out clearly – it’s one of the best things about baking.
Nov 7, 2008
Recipe Review: The Cook’s Illustrated Vodka Pie Crust
Have you heard of the vodka pie crust recipe? It made big news in the baking world when Cook’s Illustrated first published it last fall. Half of the pie dough’s moisture comes from vodka, which is 40% pure alcohol. The alcohol doesn’t promote gluten formation, so it helps the crust stay much flakier and more tender – a foolproof help to those of us who tend to overwork our pie dough.So, how does this pie dough work? Is the unconventional addition of vodka worth it?
Nov 6, 2008
Cooking Basics: When and How To Deglaze a Pan
Before we really got into cooking, deglazing was definitely not a part of our vocabulary. We also assumed that the brown gunk adhered to the bottom of the pan indicated another burned dinner – not the delicious fond we now know it to be! If you’re scratching your head right now, read on…The first step in most recipes is sautéing the chopped vegetables and/or browning the meat.
Nov 5, 2008
Recipe: Pumpkin Tortilla Soup
Tortilla soup is something we enjoy any timeOne might not expect a meatless tortilla soup to be very hearty, yet this is actually quite satisfying without animal, or even soy, protein. Pumpkin puree (made from scratch or canned) and cubes of avocado add creamy richness and balance the soup’s tomatoes and spice. Tortillas appear not only as crispy garnish but they are also cooked into the soup, infusing it with texture and flavor.
Oct 31, 2008
A Bread-and-Cheese-Filled Pumpkin from Dorie Greenspan
Still thinking about what to serve on Halloween tomorrow? How about this? Dorie Greenspan calls it a “recipe in progress.” We call it yum…This dish certainly has a wow factor—a whole pumpkin stuffed with bread, cheese, garlic, and heavy cream, baked until creamy and bubbly. We frequently see small pumpkins that are stuffed and served individually, but with this one, everyone slices or digs in to the same big gourd.Dorie admits that the measurements are rough.
Oct 30, 2008
Recipe: Sweet Butternut Squash and Coconut Jam
Remember the doce de abóboraWe love all manner of Indian sweets, many of which are made with milk. One of our favorite sweets is carrot halwa, an Indian dessert made with reduced milk and sugar (like dulce de leche) and shredded carrots. The Brazilian and Portugese pumpkin compote reminded us of that.We decided, impetuously, to experiment with adding milk (and a couple other things) to Patricia’s recipe for butternut squash compote.The results? Well, first of all, we were lucky.
Oct 30, 2008
Recipe Recommendation: Pipérade
A pipérade is a Basque dish made with tomatoes, peppers, Bayonne ham, and piment d’espeletteThis dish is very quick and versatile, and hearty. I think Aida Mollenkamp’s recipe here is closest to the most authentic style.
Oct 29, 2008
Good Question: How To Ripen Peppers?
Here’s a good question about harvesting peppers from reader Amy:My peppers did not ripen before the frost. Is there anything that I can do with these so that they will still ripen or any way to preserve them (other than freezing)? Any suggestions would be appreciated! – AmyMature peppers of many varieties start off green, and gradually turn yellow, then red, as they ripen. Green bell peppers are cheaper than red and yellow because they are unripe and not as sweet.
Oct 27, 2008
Tip: Save Shiitake Mushroom Stems for Soups!
Most recipes only use the shiitake mushroom cap and say to discard the tough stem. But instead of just throwing them away, try using those stems to flavor your soups and stocks!The stems of shiitake mushrooms are too fibrous to eat, but they still pack a lot of flavor. Just a few stems can infuse a broth with rich flavors and earthy aromas. The stems are especially good in vegetable and broth-based soups (as opposed to thick stews).
Oct 24, 2008
Good Eats: Bread and Tomato Soup
What’s going on this week over at Serious Eats? Well, there’s this bread and tomato soup, and it looks pretty mouthwatering. This and more in our weekly wrap-up of the best cooking this week at Serious Eats.• Dinner Tonight: Bread and Tomato Soup – A thrifty peasant classic – pappa al pomodoro. Uses stale bread and fresh tomatoes, a winning combination.• Apple brandy for autumn – A discussion of Calvados and other apple brandies.
Oct 23, 2008
Eat This: Baked Acorn Squash Rings
We have a trustworthy method for making sweet and spicy acorn squash, but there’s one downside: it’s slow. So we perked up when we saw this alternate method from Alicia and Summer at Bread & Honey.They used a Martha Stewart recipe – such a simple formula, really – and sliced the acorn squash before baking. They dotted each slice with butter, brown sugar, salt and pepper, and then put them in the oven.
Oct 21, 2008
Acorn Cakelet Pan from Williams-Sonoma
Uh oh – watch out! Williams-Sonoma and Nordic Ware are at it again.This is a new seasonal pan, made by Nordic Ware just for Williams-Sonoma. The pan makes up to 18 little acorn cakelets, and even the pan itself is shaped like an acorn.Nordic Ware’s pans are always very well made; we have an elaborate castle cake pan from them, and it has always performed beautifully. Great baking, easy cleanup.
Oct 21, 2008
Recipe Review: Dark Gingerbread Pear Cake
We recently linked to a gingerbread-pear cake in our daily Delicious Links, and lo and behold, we found ourselves with that very same cake in the oven a few nights later. We wanted, you see, to give you a personal opinion.I have a Thing for gingerbread. Gingerbread cookies and gingerbread men – crispy, soft, and chewy – all kinds. Gingerbread lattes, gingerbread bread pudding – mmm, sometimes.
Oct 20, 2008
Quick Tip: How to Keep Your Cutting Board from Slipping
Trying to use a cutting board that slips against the counter with every motion of your knife is not only annoying, it’s dangerous! Don’t worry – this is one kitchen grievance that’s easy to solve.The easiest and cheapest way to keep your cutting board from slipping is to put a damp paper towel or damp kitchen cloth under your cutting board. This creates friction between your board and the counter to keep things from slipping.
Oct 20, 2008
Recipe: Braised Escarole with Apples and Bacon
Escarole appeared in my Mystery Box last week, setting me up for one of my favorite situations: discovering something new to work with in the kitchen. I’ve heard of escarole and have even eaten it in restaraunts, but for some reason, I’ve never been moved to cook with it. That, it appears, is about to change.Escarole is considered a endive, making it a member of the daisy family. It’s high in fiber and rich in vitamins, especially A and K.
Oct 20, 2008
Weekend Meditation: Fallow TIme
It’s harvest month here in The Kitchn, so a metaphor from the fields feels appropriate. The one that intrigues me the most these days is fallow time. Technically, fallow refers to not planting seed on a field, allowing it to rest, to be unproductive.These days, being unproductive is a rather radical suggestion.But it’s one worth considering. Who are you when you’re not doing, producing, creating a future in the present?
Oct 19, 2008
Tip: Use an Apple Corer to Give Cupcakes a Filling
Whether or not you think cupcakes are a waning fad, as long as there are children in the world and muffin pans for sale, we think they’ll stick around. If you’ve got an apple corer handy (’tis the season, right?), you can make those cupcakes a little more sophisticated and surprising…Once the cupcakes are baked, twist an apple corer down through the top, without hitting the bottom, and burrow out a little tunnel.
Oct 16, 2008
Cooking Korean: Ojingo Bokum
If you’ve ever wanted to learn to cook squid, here’s a good introductory recipe. Ojingo bokum is a dish of sauteed squid and vegetables in a spicy sauce. The flavors are savory and the dish is very filling.
Oct 16, 2008
Dinner for One: Sesame-Garlic Soba Noodles with Fried Egg
This is definitely one of those dishes that evolved from being home alone on a weeknight and having nothing in the fridge. Success! Who knew a handful of leftover soba noodles, the last egg in the carton, and a few condiments could make such a delicious and satisfying meal?!The best part about this meal is the fried egg, in our humble opinion. The runny yolk mixes into the sesame-coated soba noodles like a creamy sauce, adding richness and substance to the dish.
Oct 16, 2008