When it comes to the topic of caramelized onions, Slate writer Tom Scocca is disgruntled. Specifically, he is dissatisfied about the downright lying that goes on in recipes about how long it takes to caramelize onions. He points out examples of cookbook authors and writers implying it takes as little as 5 to 10 minutes to create dark caramelized onion. He's calling fiddlesticks on this fiction: How long does it really take to caramelize onions, and why do recipe writers pretend otherwise?
How long does it really take to caramelize onions? It depends on whether you want lightly browned, softly cooked onions, in which case you can probably get away with 20 minutes or so. But really deeply browned and truly caramelized onions (as opposed to simply burnt and crispy) can take up to an hour over low heat.
Are there shortcuts? Scocca reviews a method from Melissa Clark (one we've also reviewed) and concludes grumpily that, "Clark was only off by 180 percent on the cooking time. You can save 12 minutes off caramelizing onions, provided you pin yourself to the stove."
I went back and ruffled rather nervously through The Kitchn's archives; were we also guilty of underquoting this caramelized onion time? I think we may skirt the truth a bit; we often say it takes 20 minutes, although this won't always get you all the way there.
But why do recipe writers so often drastically undersell the real time it takes? Scocca thinks that it is because there is a stopwatch on many recipes; writers are being pushed to create quicker and faster recipes, and caramelized onions don't fit neatly into a 30-minute fast dinner. And yet, even though caramelized onions do take a long time to cook, they make up for the time in convenience; Scocca recommends making a big batch while you're in the kitchen doing something else, or throwing a load of onions into the slow cooker. Not fast, but convenient, yes. Also? Worth their weight in gold, for flavor. Just don't lie about how long they take.
Read the article: Layers of Deceit: Why do recipe writers lie and lie and lie about how long it takes to caramelize onions? at Slate
More Caramelized Onions
• Flavor Builders: How to Caramelize Onions
• Freezer Friendly: Caramelized Onions
• Fast Flavor: The Quickest Way to Caramelize an Onion
• How To Make French Onion Soup at Home
(Image: Anjali Prasertong)
Red-and-Pink-Stripe...

Maybe they're taking it on average--take an hour to make a batch of caramelized onions that will do for three recipes, ta da! 20 minutes.
It IS worth the extra time. We've taken to making up a batch if there are onions left on grocery shopping day, then just having it for the week. Caramelized onions and some cream cheese on your morning bagel? Yes please.
I have to say I've found the little white lies recipe writers tell really frustrating too, although I frequently chalk them up to "they have better kitchen equipment than I do", or "they're more skilled in the kitchen than I am". Not that those make me feel any better...
I do know one shortcut to caramelizing onions, though (from America's Test Kitchen): microwave the sliced onions first for several minutes, to get them to throw off some of their water, then strain them before putting them in the pan.
This post made me laugh, because the tone is so serious! But yeah, I'm all for the approach of make a big batch of onions, for as long as it takes, and freeze it (a tip I learned here!) for later use.
And it *is* frustrating when things take much longer than a recipe states, which I find happens a lot. Two instances most common for me: 1) Quick breads in loaf pans always take me WAY longer than any recipe says. And I don't think it's my oven, because nothing else is ever that off. Just loaf pan recipes. 2) Every recipe I've ever tried that involves sweet potatoes cooked in a pan on the stovetop--doesn't matter if they're sliced thin, diced small, etc.--always takes way longer than stated and usually the sweet potatoes still aren't fully cooked! Drives me crazy.
I hate inaccurate recipes, no matter what the inaccuracy. It makes me think the author didn't cook that recipe that often.
I've always assumed it is because the recipe writer missuse the term "carmelize" so often. They want brownish onions, not real carmelized onions. For instance, like the ones above. Those are brown and look like they had some liquid added to enhance the color/deglaze the pot. But they aren't carmelized.
I haven't tried it yet, but I've read about using a CrockPot. Might have to give it a try.
I have to say, the first time I caramelized onions, I wondered if there was something wrong with me. The recipe said 10 minutes, and an hour later (I was making a lot), I was no longer worried they were going to burn if I didn't watch them every second!
I read that article yesterday and it annoyed me. The evidence he cites are recipes which say things like "cook for 5-10 minutes until a golden color." No, onions will not caramelize in that amount of time, but they will turn golden, so why is that wrong?
That being said, there are a lot of bad, inaccurate recipes out there. It drives me crazy too!
This never bothers me because I know what I'm cooking, so I cook til truly caramelized, but for a less experienced cook, yes it's frustrating. I think it is to appease those people who want a recipe they can cook in ___ minutes. Food doesn't always work like that and you get out what you put in I think.
The caramelized onions get me in many recipes when the "cheat" is to cook them down with beef broth. Not the same! They look caramelized but aren't and done in a fraction of the time! Also risotto. Sorry guys, but it takes time and patience to cook properly. SO many recipes make risotto in 15 minutes or so! Just cause you use arborio rice, a risotto it does not make.
Caramelize onions overnight in the slow cooker: takes many hours, but almost no work. And you can fill that sucker almost to the top, so you'll have a nice big batch when you wake up in the morning. So nice in an omelet. too...
Hahaha! I have to say I agree with him, although I find that if I add sugar and some liquid, like red wine on higher heat, it gets there a little quicker.
DebbieK—what else do you put in the slow cooker with the onions? Just some oil?
i rarely trust recipe times, it always takes me longer. the only recipe times i trust are for ones ive made myself!
Ah, it's the worm photo again! http://www.thekitchn.com/fast-flavor-the-163842
This is interesting and helpful. I don't like onions much and only cook with shallots because they're the only kind that don't leave onion-stink under my fingernails. Since I don't really know what I'm doing with them or how they're supposed to turn out, I really rely on recipes' cooking times.
I really hate it when cooking times are understated. I take bedtime meds that aren't as effective if you don't wait 2 hours after eating, so if a recipe takes me an hour longer than I estimated, it means I have to wait an additional hour to go to bed.
I was so happy to see this article on Slate yesterday - the constant lying about how long it takes to cook onions has been making me crazy. I would say I rarely if ever see the truth about onions in a recipe. It's condescending and is only going to discourage new cooks when they either think they are screwing up, or realize that they've been intentionally tricked.
You can speed up caramelizing onions by: 1. starting with a tiny mound of sugar in the middle of a pan and heat it until it gets slightly caramelized 2. Putting in the onions with a little bit of baking soda. Add some butter too 3. Cook on high head 4. Deglaze with water if necessary.
http://bit.ly/K4CSbM
I have noticed this in recipes as well, and it bothers me. I haven't caramelized onions very many times, but I had read how long it could take. When I see in a recipe that my onions should be caramelized in 10 minutes...and when 10 minutes rolls around and it's nowhere close, that's really frustrating. It throws off my timing for pulling dinner together so that everything is ready at once.
Sygyzy mentions baking soda and that's the trick: add a little bit of baking soda and the onion will caramelize more quickly, because what's happening is not a real 'caramelization' but a Maillard reaction (proteins and sugars together) and it happens faster when the pH is basic, see this link (in Italian, I know, but there are pictures there):
http://bressanini-lescienze.blogautore.espresso.repubblica.it/2011/05/23/la-cipolla-di-maillard/
We love onions and after spending at east a hour to get them to the right color my house smelled of onions for days. Next time I am doing them on the BBQ and making a huge batch for freezing.
The biggest pet peeve I've had comes from reducing the liquid in recipes. "Simmer until educed by half" they say... "about 10 minutes" they say... 30 minutes later, I'm staring at my pot wondering if they misunderstood the word, "simmer."
I think part of the problem is inappropriate use of cooking terminology, which is a react to the cooking ignorance of so many people. "Caramelize" is inappropriately used to refer to any browning that occurs when cooking onions, when in fact it refers to a specific type of browning that occurs due to chemical changes of the sugar within the onion. "Caramelize" is also misused to refer to the Maillard reaction, which does produce brown color, but for a completely different reason.
It seems to me that if someone is going to throw a fit over the misuse of a cooking terminology, and write an article about it, then they have plenty of time to correctly caramelize onions, so they should stop whining...
loganskitchen.com
I would also point out that the times and timings listed in a recipe are an estimation, like all time-points in all recipes. Anyone who thinks that it is an exact prediction is not thinking
Perhaps they added some Baking Soda to speed it up!
http://www.seriouseats.com/2011/01/the-food-lab-real-french-onion-dip-homemade-super-bowl-recipe.html
Though if they did it should have been noted! also, 5-10 mins still too short!
http://www.seriouseats.com/2011/01/the-food-lab-real-french-onion-dip-homemade-super-bowl-recipe.html a real way to quicken Caramelized onions
I read this article yesterday and had to laugh. Because it's true--Lies! Damn Lies! Someone mentioned the Crockpot--yes, you can get absolutely mahogany, perfect carmelized onions in the Crockpot. Since it takes 12-14 hours on low, I usually go ahead and slice up a whole bag, which is very tearful, but worth it because they freeze well. There is no way to get beautifully carmelized onions in 10 minutes, no matter what equipment or skills you have. I have worked in publishing, though not in cookbooks, but it wouldn't surprise me if handing in a recipe that includes 1 hour for carmelizing onions would cause 1) your editor to faint, and 2) the yanking of your book contract.
Oh, and ps on Crockpot onions: I've made them for French Onion Soup by putting a whole ton o' onion slices and a whole stick of butter in there. Next time I will put a tinch of sherry in there, too. But I'm sure you could do it with some olive oil--I'd toss it with the slices and use enough to lightly coat.
Could you have a used a photo where the onions didn't look like worms?
cmcinnyc—Thanks!
Alton Brown was bitching about this very subject the other day on his twitter:
http://twitter.com/#!/altonbrown/status/197799919774470146
An ex line cook I know hates French Onion Soup for this reason- all that hanging around time waiting on the onions to caramelize.
What I hate in the foodie world is how on the recipe sites people will completely alter someone else's recipe, then rate it poorly and say it sucked. How can they do that? They never actually made the recipe!!!
Really creepy photo.
Yes the photo scared me as I also thought it was worms.
In my mind, caramelized onions are the kind that basically dissolve when you add beef stock to make french onion soup. If the onions keep their shape, no cigar!
It takes at least an hour, if not two over very low heat.
Yeah, I too wondered why someone was flying up a pan of worms.
Finally. I'm always complaining about this when I see or hear recipes that tell me to "saute onions for 10 minutes until caramelized." What? The problem isn't the lie, for me, because I KNOW it's a lie. What bugs me is that every recipe I see advertises quicker ways to caramelize the onions, which is not what I need. What I want is a fantastic, classic, and correct method for making perfect caramelized onions. I've tried a few different methods (like a dry pan - not for quickness, but just because it was supposed to work better...), but settled on a little olive oil and butter mixed from the start, cook for about 50 minutes, then add a tsp of balsamic vinegar at the end to give a rich, sweet flavor and to really help finish the onions, nicely. But try and find a common recipe online, and you'll be looking all day. They're all different! So whatever, recipe writers want burnt onions, let them have it. I am curious about onions caramelized in cola, which obviously has a lot of sugar to aid in the process, but sounds a bit weird...
I can barely get onions sauted in olive oil to look translucent in 10 minutes and I use a commercial burner and an All-Clad skillet. Caramelized? I agree, no way.
@JEEPYJ Your comment about your house smelling like onions for days reminded me of the advice my mom gave me when I was a young girl (in the 60s)... "if you don't know what you're going to fix for dinner, just start browning some onions. You'll eventually figure out what to make, but in the meantime when your husband comes home he'll think you've been cooking all day!"
True caramelized onions are a thing of beauty. You can caramelize any amount of onions that you choose. The process will still take anywhere from 40 to 70 minutes. I made a small batch (only one whole onion thinly sliced) in a sauce pan on low heat. It took about 45 minutes but the result was dark brown, melty, oniony heaven. I slathered it on homemade pizza dough beneath the mozzarella and sauce. So good...
YES YES YES! I really hate when I come across a recipe that calls for caramelizing onions! I have never actually been successful because I feel like a failure that mine doesn't look like the picture after the time it says. A while back there was a whole section on caramelizing onions in an Everyday Food. I believe it said one hour and then gave a lot of ideas of what to use them for.
@TBGBOODLER I LOVE that quote haha that's awesome
Crock pot overnight is the best way because you freeze the extra and they are at your beck and call....that said, I really don't take any recipe to heart because people lie...I eyeball it and tweak where I feel its needed.
P.S. That is one scary a.s photo.
worms...mmmmm
I'm with everyone on the worms. That photo is terrible.
That is hilarious. My grandmother used to say the same thing about "browning an onion if dinner was going to be delayed."
I agree with @YONELLA: Could you have a used a photo where the onions didn't look like worms?
Those worms look delicious!
I am SO glad you wrote about this post - all my adult life I've been wondering why it never took me "5-7" minutes to get this done - was definitely a pet peeve for me, so THANK YOU!!!
The same goes for making risotto. Most recipes claim it'll only take around 20 minutes!
this picture is so disgusting!
I was starting to get excited about eating worms....
but seriously - you are all right - Mark Bittman, in How to cook everything vegetarian - was the first place that really explained (to me) how to caramelize onions. Don't add oil too soon - dry heat till they start to stick. Best guide on how to prepare onions ever.
Less talk of worms, more talk of the awesome quote by tbgboodler above. In fact, allow me to quote her again:
"the advice my mom gave me when I was a young girl (in the 60s)... 'if you don't know what you're going to fix for dinner, just start browning some onions. You'll eventually figure out what to make, but in the meantime when your husband comes home he'll think you've been cooking all day!'"
Them's worms.
When I caramelize onions it takes AT LEAST an hour, depending on quantity--because I REALLY love onions, so my motto is "you can never have enough" of them! I get the pan nice and hot, but over medium flame, then add the olive oil, onions, salt and pepper, and--if I'm making fajitas--some fresh lemon juice, turn the flame down to low and let them go. I stir the onions occasionally, but I don't rush them. An hour or more down the road, they're good to go. Yum. :)
At first glance this really looks like worms - sorry !! That's pretty disgusting.
EVERY time I see the thumbnail of this on the site I see earth worms....so gross! i love carmelized onions though but this image is like ingrained in my brain....uugghh
There's a difference between caramelizing and browning. Those onions are brown. Caramelized onions should be a slight golden color. And yes, it is a tie your self to the stove job; as is making any type of caramel. An if you're taking more than 10 minutes, your heat is probably not high enough. I'm amazed how many people don't know basic cooking techniques. Probably an unintended consequence of the pre-packaged, delivery, and fast food world. The ability to turn on a stove, doesn't make one a cook.
the problem is that when they say caramelize, they just mean 'brown the damn things'
normal cooking often requires that you brown your onions a bit... but ppl think it's more elegant, show-offy, high falootin to say 'caramelize.
just brown them, like mom used to... it will take no more than 10 minutes! :)
haha, i am so glad i am not the only one seeing worms... i was scrolling past the pic every time because i was ready to upchuck!
Hi, my name is Katie. I'm a recipe writer and I'm guilty as charged. I'm not being dishonest, though.
The way I learned to caramelize onions was over medium-high heat, mostly leaving them alone but giving them a good toss every few minutes. This yields deeply sweet, dark brown onions in about 20 minutes that yes, are burnt and crispy in some places. I love those places.
There are of course other ways of doing it lower and slower, like for French onion soup. I can def understand why Scocca is passionate about caramelized onions, I cover the different approaches to them and generally gush about their sheer awesomeness on whiskedfoodie.com:
http://whiskedfoodie.com/chefs_table/sweet-soft-and-divine-caramelized-onions/
As a Chef, Nutrition Coach and Nutrition/Cookbook Author and Cooking Class Instructor I am often very surprised when people whine about how long a recipe takes or even how many ingredients in the dish. Many people are shocked when I tell them I make all of my food from scratch. We have become a nation of people who want everything instant (even health through medicine when not eating correctly causes problems)... People assume I spend all day in the kitchen. I caramelize a batch of 3 or 4 onions one day a week and them have them to use all week in many dishes. I make traditional bone stocks once a week to cook with and drink all week. And. yes, caramelizing onions takes an hour or so...but that sweet taste is so work it!
Each time I look at the photo, I think it's a pile of red worms. Please change it. It's nasty!
Wow, people (some of you) -- you really need to grow up. Do you think spaghetti looks like worms, also? What about meatballs? No, on second thought, never mind.
Thanks to the people who gave tips for caramelizing in the crockpot. Going to try this.
The image doesn't match my notion of "caramelized". A little more heat and the deeper brown of "carmel" appeals to me more. Is a stock of water, sherry, and crockpot-cooked onions going to cut it? Probably not. Let's up the ante, and cook things a little closer to burning, but not quite there.
All the worm comments are a bit hilarious...I was baffled about what everyone was talking about and had to go back to look at the photo to get it. I suppose if I were to criticize the photo, it would have more to do with what I consider to be the onions' undercooked state than any worm-like resemblance. Caramelized, as far as onions go, means brown, dark brown, and shapeless...certainly nothing that you would mistake for a pile of worms.
I heat a large cast iron skillet, add some butter and/or olive oil, fill it to the top with onions, preferably red ones, and then settle down with something else to do in the kitchen. Yes, it takes at least an hour—which is why I never do less than four or five onions at a time. I keep a lid on the skillet, opening it only to take a look or stir. After the onions have begun to cook down and brown some, I start to listen for a certain tic-tic-tic sound. Whenever I hear it, I turn the heat down a notch (sorry, gas burners only for this) and stir. If needed, sometimes I'll add a little more butter or olive oil. Eventually, the flame will barely be on. Towards the end, I sometimes turn off the heat and walk away, letting the cast iron do the rest. The onions freeze well. I use half-cup canning jars, which will hold one to two onions, depending on original size and how well-cooked they are. If I'm using only a small amount for a dish, I'll scrape out what I need with a spoon and stick the rest back in the freezer.
I thought the thumbnail was of writhing earthworms, too, and was relieved to read it was onions!
Done it many different ways, but this recent find (in a ecipe) was the most accurate and the best tasting, as the sherry and thyme add a level of flavor only found in a rich onion soup.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 large, yellow onions, 1/4-inch slices
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper
1/4 cup dry sherry
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
Heat a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil, let the butter mel,t and then add in the onions and toss to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and then cover the pot and lower the heat to medium-low.
Let the onions sweat, steam and soften for 10 to 15 minutes. Uncover the pan and let the onions cook for about an hour, checking on the onions frequently and stirring.
Once the onions are fully caramelized, and a deep golden color, add the sherry and scrape up any bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the thyme, season with salt and pepper and set aside.
I think one of the tricks is the covering, to allow a level of moisture to build up and then to evaporate it again when lid is removed. At the end of an hour, there is still a level of moisture in the pan which aids in the prevention of burning even at low temps
Last weekend I made "beer onions" and everyone loved them. It's my way of kind of shortening the time to truly caramelize. I don't cover the pan, and when it begins to get too dry, I just pour in some beer. Cook it off, add more, cook, until the color and flavor are good. I used a malty IPA, but you can use any kind, even High Life.
I never EVER trust cookbooks, to be honest. I'm a bit more trusting of blog recipes actually - there's photos there, generally, showing me what's going on so I know what's what. Also I'm generally familiar with that blogger and have built up some trust in them.
Seriously, though. I understand why there is so much focus on the 30 minute meal thing and I know that some people really do need that, every day, but we don't ALL need fast meals. I'm not going to flip to the next page if it takes 45 minutes instead of 30. Just tell me honestly, so I know how much ACTUAL time I need here, instead of artificially shortening it to draw in the busy workday types.
What complete hogwash. It's quite easy to caramelize onions in 10 minutes if you know what you're doing
http://www.stellaculinary.com/podcasts/video/how-to-caramelize-onions-in-10-minutes-or-less-a-rebuttal
The first time I encountered a recipe that told me to caramelize onions, it didn't tell me how to do it. The illustration simply showed dark, seemingly crispy onions on top of the dish. So, being ingenious I put two and two together. I sautéed the onion in butter and when they were beginning to brown I thew in some sugar and continued to cook them until the sugar caramelized around them.
My dinner guests loved them.
Here's my method: Slice your onions, put them into a microwaveable dish with a lid (plastic wrap or other improvised top will do) mix them with whatever fat you're using, and nuke them for 5-10 minutes while you busy yourself with something else. (This brings out the liquid--which includes much of the natural sugars in the onions.)
Then take off the top, stir them a bit, and nuke them (uncovered) for another 5 minutes or so. (You're trying to cook off the liquid so the onions can brown.) Stir them, see if they're brown enough; if not, nuke them another 5 minutes. Stir them AGAIN, see if they're brown enough; if not, nuke them another 5 minutes--repeating until they're to your liking.