Artisan. Artisanal. What do these words really mean, especially now they've been co-opted by big companies like Domino's Pizza? We asked some of our favorite local food producers what they think of when they hear the term "artisan" and hope you'll join in the conversation, too.
These five small business owners make some of the finest bread, preserves, ice cream, and confections we have ever tasted. We admire their dedication to their craft as well as their creativity and attention to the local community, whether it's the farms they source from or the people they feed. If asked, we would probably describe them as artisans. But let's see what they have to say...
What does "artisan" mean to you?
Rose Lawrence of Red Bread:
True artisan food implies a profound understanding of the craft of making food. Coupled with this understanding is a deep love for the craft, for food, and for those who will eat your food. This is obvious at every step: selection of ingredients, care of process, and joy in presenting it to others.Traditionally, if you were an artisan and owned your own business, you were referred to as a Master. Despite running our own wild yeast bakery and seasonal kitchen in Venice Beach, Calif., I believe we will always prefer to think of ourselves as journeymen within the artisan tradition. There is always more to learn, and every day we meet artisans working with food who open our eyes with their love of their craft.
Artisan was a term originally applied to those people that create something of value for the community, who through dedication reach the expressive form of art in their craft. In a food system that has largely forgotten the magic of food, often referring to it merely as a product, we are committed to being artisans.
Karen Klemens of Mother Moo Creamery:
I think of artisan or artisanal food simply as good food. It can be something like a delicious fried egg with a special spice that you might like, to something a bit more elegant, sophisticated, and complex such as a brined, braised pork roast with a reduction sauce, marinated with something from your larder.Do I consider myself an artisan? No. I think my ancestors were the true artisans. They did it all — they raised the chicken, slaughtered the chicken, cooked the chicken, made soup with the chicken, and of course, made beautiful, handcrafted quilts with the feathers. They made good, artisanal food – we're just trying to keep up with their traditions.
Kevin West of Saving the Season:
"Artisanal" is the Paris Hilton of food words – it went from obscurity to ubiquity in no time, and now I'd like to see that trajectory reversed. The first time I remember hearing it used frequently was in 2001, around the opening of Terrance Brennan's New York cheese-centric restaurant, Artisanal. Back then I liked the word because of its etymological roots in skilled craft – akin to "art" but with that special connotation of the practical arts, such as carpentry, iron-working, and making food.In recent years "artisanal" has become a synonym for small, smaller, smallest – the Portlandia battle cry – and has grown shabby with overuse. Now that Domino's has unveiled Artisan Pizzas, the word is officially threadbare. Anyone who cares about food or language should put "artisanal" in cold storage for a century, in hopes that it may be restored and repaired by generations to come.
Jessica Koslow of Sqirl:
Sadly the word "artisan" has been taken from its original meaning — a craftsman of skill, one who manufactures functional and decorated tangible goods – and now can be used to qualify something as "quality." Honestly, the term "artisan food" does not mean anything to me. Instead I ask myself what I'm looking for in food — is it the farm or ranch that matters? The point of view of the chef, or their experience? The number of years a place has been around? By defining my own metric of quality, I'm able to navigate the artisan waters and find food, wine, and restaurants that I respect.If you asked a musician who's played their entire life whether they were an artisan, I have a feeling the answer would be, "No. I'm a musician." It's the same for me. I think of myself as a cook first, dedicated to reaching my technical and creative potential in the field of preservation. Secondly, I consider myself to be a small business owner. And I believe Sqirl is the marriage of the two.
Max Lesser of Morning Glory Confections:
An artisan works to produce a pure product of their vision using often labor-intensive techniques and high-quality ingredients. My approach to making brittle, baked goods, and other edibles is a serious one requiring time, patience, precision, and respect for ingredients and process. It also happens to be what I love to do, and fortunately, I'm able to practice this craft on a daily basis.There is something odd about enormous brands using the term "artisan" to brand something that is the antithesis of handcrafted. Yet, I'd like to think that they are just responding to consumers who want a connection to the food they eat. People want to feel that what they're eating is pure and authentic, and made by actual people, not machines. So while this desire may increase mass-produced potato chips or pizza labeled "artisan," it will also bring more true food artisans to the table. And that's a good thing.
Readers, what does "artisan" or "artisanal" mean to you?
Related: How Artisanal Became a Mass-Produced Food Dilemma
(Images: Red Bread; Sqirl; Morning Glory Confections)
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The word is not a real word in any sense or dictionary but one that is supposed to conjure the image of a master craftsman (in the same sense of guilds in the middle ages) who made this product - whatever it may be. (S)He's an artist at making bread/cheese/wine etc.
Artisanal as it's being used in the US means the same as "Old World" did in prior decades - not much. This bread is made to look like they do/did in Europe but not necessarily with the same grade or combination of grains as they would use perhaps using a longer rise time, hotter oven or some other 'authentic' twist such as the oven construction or fuel source. (I'm waiting for authentic meats and breads cooked over dung fires in mud ovens to appear in markets.) This combination of shredded cheeses is 'more authentic' to the native country (or not) or that the cheeses were mass produced in some more old-fashioned methodology by actually using rennet (unlikely if they want a K approval), aging them for more than a couple weeks to a month but not in a 'dirty mold laden' cave. Of course it's all nonsensical since many items like authentic Italian Parmesan cheese is extremely and highly mass produced and aged in spotless warehouses yet imported Parmesan retains an "artisimal" image.
I grew up in France where "artisan" is a noun applied to craftsmen who also tend to be small business owners. For example, a plumber can be an "artisan plombier", which just mean they work on their own.
The adjective "artisanal" means it's been made by hand, by someone who is an artisan. Ergo, Artisan = Craftsman (or woman). It doesn't necessarily mean it's made with premium ingredients or materials not that the skills are always outstanding. It's always better if it happens to be that way, but some "artisans boulangers" can sometimes turn out a mediocre baguette, for example.
I don't know that it means much to me in English, because there's no premium quality attached to the French word to begin with. I don't really pay attention to it or what product are branded "artisanal" here.
I'm more likely to pay attention to the ingredients if it's food-related.
I'm francophone so I have the same background knowledge of artisan and artisanal as Janet and I would agree with everything she said.
I should think "artisan" means a baker who owns his own shop, who you could conceivably talk to because he lives in your neighborhood, and makes his own bread, and it's more than the usual sandwich loaves and donuts.
Or if you bake your own and you're curious and always trying to improve your own technique- you are the artisan.
Ideally, the bread you're putting in your mouth was dough being handled by an artisan early that very morning.
To me it means a product of high quality, but low volume production, and high quality because someone took pride in their work. I don't know anyone I consider an artisan, who would describe themselves or allow themselves to be described as such, who hadn't dedicated themselves to producing something of real value (so no mediocre baguette makers in my definition).
Artisan to me means family. Maybe not a big family but someone who is passing on the craft that was perfected and handed down through generations. Out of a place that's more a home or a villa rather than a big business. Dominoes need not bother.
Artisan is more than just an artist. It is a craftsman who not only takes pride in work, but also sharing their art. I have been lucky enough to take classes from both Karen Klemens and Kevin West. They very generously share their passion for preserving with all who have the same interest! They want to pass their art on so that it will live on.
If I didn't know, and I had to guess what it meant based on its overuse these days, I would probably guess that it meant pretentious.