Thomas Keller, on starting out as a dishwasher in his mother's restaurant:
"What resonated with me was rituals and repetition...So many of the things that I learned as a dishwasher you do as a cook. The idea of being efficient, being organized, the rituals of being a cook, the repetition...and of course the more you do something, the better you become. That's why I became a good cook, because I enjoy the repetition, I wasn't always trying to seek something new...You tend to always want to do something new in the kitchen, but there really isn't anything new."
When I was younger, I was impatient in the kitchen. I'd throw things together as quickly as possible, taking as many short cuts as I could get away with. It was all about getting to the end piece, the final product. I easily grew bored with repetition and squirmed under the weight of ritual.
I suppose I've grown up now or at least matured in some way that's allowed me to appreciate the whole event of cooking, from the creative act of first conceiving a dish (or a whole diner party menu) to the final washed and dried plate finding its place in the cupboard. The ritual and repetition that Mr. Keller speaks of so highly is now inspiring and grounding, almost reassuring.
Remember that pile of onions in front of Meryl Streep playing Julia Child in the film Julie and Julia? She was just getting started. There is perhaps no more simple, everyday task in the kitchen than chopping an onion. And yet, there is nothing more important, more integral to cooking than knowing how to chop an onion. And the only way to truly master this is to first learn the proper technique and then repeat the hell out of it until mind, body and activity are seamless.
So in other words, ironically, the path to freedom often means chaining yourself to the monotonous activity of practice and repetition. Repetition, endless repetition, is the only way to learn how to chop an onion or diaper a baby or play the violin. It's the only way to mastery, to a state of being that's calm yet bright and focused. It's the only way the body learns.
From percussionist Fugan Dineen: "We spend time working on something--often a simple pattern or even a singlestroke--for weeks, months, and sometimes years. After all that work, this something gets inside us, to a place before thinking, where we can use it freely."
Ritual, in the sense of religion or spirituality, is at its simplest just performing an act, often in a repetitive way, in order to fully engage with something sacred. In ritual, you're not just thinking about it or talking about it, you're actually doing it, physically enacting the sacred. Ritual spans all religions, cultures and borders, and has been with us forever. It is a deeply human endeavor.
Is it helpful or even interesting to think of repetitive kitchen work as a ritual? I suppose that depends on you and what you consider sacred. Sometimes it's not very beneficial to spread a thick layer of meaning on ordinary activity. Sometimes the ordinariness of that activity is what shines, standing on its own, without fuss and bother. Nothing extra.
And yet.
We're alive and on this earth for an achingly brief moment. This particular life, this manifestation, is our single chance at being human. So much of our daily life is repetitive, so much activity is devoted to ordinary maintenance. Why not investigate beyond our habitual assumptions and see what's there to be discovered? What is it that your hands know, in a way that's just a little different from the way your mind knows? And what has that got to do with freedom, happiness, creation? If this knowing and discovering and bringing forth is not sacred, then what would you call it?
Related: How To Learn Great Knife Skills
Listen: Thomas Keller's complete interview with Evan Kleiman on KCRW, here.
(Top image: Flickr member zenobia_joy licensed under Creative Commons. Bottom image: Sony Pictures)

Comments (4)
In many ways I find this entry lovely and wise. But the still shot of Streep next to her mountain of chopped onions does not fit the bill, in my opinion. For one thing, the authenticity of this scene is dubious; I am fairly certain Nora Ephron is exaggerating for comic effect. And, even if someone were to buy a hundred onions and chop them all in one marathon chopping session, this is precisely the opposite approach that is being praised here. The idea is about habits and skills that form over days, months and years of repetition, not mastering a technique in one fell swoop. The movie scene depicts a short cut; it demonstrates an impatience to master the art RIGHT NOW. I have a feeling that Child herself would find this Hollywood treatment of her appalling. But, at any rate, one does not master difficult cooking techniques in a day, any more than one becomes a great musician or dishwasher.
To me, there's something spiritual and comfortably ritualistic about kitchen work, and the task that comes to mind (even more so than chopping onions) is kneading bread. The ten or so minutes spent with sleeves rolled up, working the dough from a big shaggy lump into a smooth ball, breathing in that lovely yeasty smell, are my favorite moments in the kitchen. The repetition of moving the dough around the counter is so peaceful; I often bake bread just for that experience alone.
I am inspired by this article to find ways to add to, or at least appreciate, repetition and ritual in my life. As an electronics engineer, my mind-set is dominated by problem-solving and deductive reasoning. And I chase creative outlets looking for stimulation.
Starting tomorrow, I shall note the common tasks I do and try to add personal meaning and ritual to each. First of all I'll reread this article and all the smart comments.
PS, I guess the Streep photo was tagged "repetition" and "cooking" and found its way into the article.
When I beat egg whites with a whisk, cut perfect julienne, make mayo with a fork in my mayo making bowl I am in that peaceful place.
The ritual of being mindful of each part of a task is a centering experience.
This post reminded me to re-read Thich Nhat Hanh writing about washing dishes.