The Louisiana seafood industry has been through a lot recently. There was Katrina, and then the BP oil spill. Most recently, the opening of spillways and freshwater diversions to relieve flooding further up the Mississippi has thrown off the coastal ecosystem. Yes, it's been a tough few years. But as I saw firsthand on my visit to New Orleans, Louisiana fishermen, the facilities that process their catch, and Gulf seafood itself are anything if not resilient. Here's a peek into the world of catching, cleaning, and eating Gulf seafood.
Our first stop was at Pontchartrain Blue Crabs in Slidell, a small processing facility that none-the-less houses all the necessary people and equipment to sort, boil, pick, and package lump crab meat. From boat to truck, that crab meat is out the door in a mere twenty-four hours.
This area was hard-hit by Katrina and the original facility was completely washed away. Gary Bauer, the owner of Pontchartrain Blue Crabs, rebuilt right on top of the concrete slabs left behind after the waters receded.
Motivatit Seafood was up next, an oyster processing facility owned by Mike Voisin in Houma, Louisiana. Voisin is a seventh generation oysterman, and his sons are ready to become the eighth. Voisin showed us how artificial reefs are created from used oyster shells, which are then seeded with live oysters.
These oysters take 3 to 4 years to mature, which means this operation will be feeling the cumulative affect of the recent disasters for some time to come. As it is, this facility processes around 750 million oysters every year, using their patented high-pressure pasteurization system to ensure that their oysters are extra-safe and ready for slurping straight from the shell.
Our final tour was of Gulf Island Shrimp and Seafood processing facility in Dulac. Here, shrimp are unloaded right off the boat, sorted by size, and then individually quick frozen before being packaged for shipping. Most impressive were the machines that automatically strip the shells off the shrimp!
One thing became very clear to me in the course of these tours: these people love what they do. From Mike Voisin and his sons to the fireman who runs a crab boat in his spare time to even the migrant workers who return to the same facility year after year, every single person clearly showed pride in their seafood and satisfaction in bringing it to the table.
It's been a hard number of years, but there are some blessings. Money received from BP and various government agencies is being used to test Louisiana seafood more rigorously than ever before. This funding is also going toward putting into place more safety measures and carrying out extensive research on the Gulf ecosystem, neither of which were possible to nearly this extent in years past.
The FDA and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) are using a two-tiered process for testing the seafood: sensory tests for odors (which can be detected by the human nose in surprisingly small amounts) and chemical testing for hydrocarbons. They have pronounced Gulf seafood clean and safe for consumption on all accounts.
But even more than studies and government tests, I trust the folks actually fishing and processing the seafood. I think that it's impossible for anyone to love what they do as much as these people and deliver an oyster or a crab or a pound of shrimp that is anything less than the very best. This alone makes me support Louisiana seafood.
Plus, it's just so darn tasty.
Want to help the Louisiana seafood industry? It's easy: just eat Louisiana seafood.
• More Information on Gulf Seafood: Louisiana Seafood Handbook
Related: What's the Difference? Brown, White, and Freshwater Shrimp
(Information for this post was gathered during a press trip to New Orleans sponsored by the Louisiana Seafood Board. All views and opinions expressed in this post are the personal views of the author.)
(Images: Emma Christensen)















Martha Concrete Lam...

can't wait for that yummy gulf seafood in a couple weeks!!!
The seafood industry is close to the hearts of Louisianians; it is part of our culture, and a source of pride and way of life for so many. Thanks to The Kitchn for bringing attention to the cause.
Couldn't say it any better than mama0913. This isn't just a source of income for our state- its a way of life. You will not find better seafood anywhere!
Want to help the Louisiana seafood industry? Force your legislators to pass laws that prevent offshore drilling in the gulf, so nothing like this can happen again. The reason that Louisiana's having trouble isn't because their customers are stubborn. It's because they're concerned. Asking them to put aside their concern for the sake of industry, while touting the money that BP has funneled into testing -- a tiny sum compared to BP's profits last year -- is somewhat ridiculous.
Yes, it's very moving that Louisiana fishermen love what they do. You know what else is moving? Not dying. I feel for the producers who've been affected by the spill, but not to the point where I'm willing to put myself at risk because, golly, they all need a little help down there and, gosh darn it all, certainly BP, the government *and* the people whose livelihoods depend on selling their products would never, ever sell something that wasn't 100% safe.
Brilliant post. Keep up the good work.
@warrenjustice
Way to take a positive post about one of our industries and try and spit all over it with bile. This post was about our seafood industry and the great work locals do to get it. You clearly sound like you are one who just too easily falls for scare tactics and whatever the other guys are yelling loudest. Our seafood is fine. We know it and most others do too. You don't like it, by all means don't eat it.
I encourage everyone to look at this site as well.
http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx
It lists fish and seafood that are caught, farmed or harvested in a responsible manner worldwide (with the Gulf of Mexico being listed in a positive light sometimes).
They even have an app you can download to your phone that you can use when you're shopping for seafood. It helps take a lot of guess work and bad information out of the topic.
I'm saddened that this tragedy has done little to change our situation. I have all the sympathy in the world for these hard-working folks, but all I heard right after the oil spill is that many people in Louisiana still support offshore drilling. Furthermore, NPR had 2 marine biologists who emphasized that a huge amount of oil remains in deeper waters and is sequestered in marine sediments - where many species live and feed. It's an ugly situation all around.
i'm going to NOLA this xmas. i will do my part by eating buckets of seafood.
@jmorri26
good luck shouting down the people who aren't convinced by the PR saying the gulf's seafood is safe. Maybe, just maybe, contentious isn't the best stance to take.
@tusk
If I grow an extra arm or start glowing in the dark from eating our seafood, I'll be sure to report back.