Last week, in the midst of this schizophrenic January weather, I started thinking about Sancerre Rouge. Hailing from the Loire Valley where some incredible, often overlooked red wines are produced, this obscure Pinot Noir beautifully captures the bright and lively style of Pinot in a playful way without overloading the palette with loads of tannin and spice. Sure, you may have only had it in the summer, when the days are warm, and the bottle spent some time chilling down a notch in the fridge. But when the temperatures drop again it is a great wine to serve at room temperature, with a similar weight and body as a light Zinfandel or a Sangiovese. The reason it also works chilled is because it is less tannic than it's other red cousins. In other words, when the weather is playing tricks on you, it's a great wine to have on hand. Chambers Street Wines (160 Chambers Street between W. Broadway and Greenwich) has a great example in stock right now: André Neveu’s 2003 Le Grand Fricambault Rouge ($16.99).