Twee Food: Debating the Brooklyn Artisanal Food Movement

New York Magazine

Whether you live in Brooklyn or not (disclosure: I do), you still probably know exactly what I mean when I talk about the Brooklyn food scene: $9 single-origin craft-chocolate bars, crop-to-cup pour over coffee, small batch everything with romantic, slightly Victorian labels, men in butcher's aprons and plaid shirts. But how scalable is this twee scene, as some have called it? Is Brooklyn about to become Brooklandia? Or is it already there? These are just some of the questions posed in Benjamin Wallace's excellent article this week in New York Magazine. Regarding the purchase of $9 Early Bird Granola (made with olive oil and featured here), he writes in a fairly adequate sum-up of Brooklyn's foodisms:
I cherish the little pouches atop my refrigerator, with their rustic-urban design of a colorful bird, stalk of wheat in its beak, flying over a cityscape. Because the granola is "gathered in Brooklyn, I can take pride in supporting local manufacturing (local mixing, anyway). The organic rolled oats and organic pumpkin seeds and organic coconut and organic brown sugar pleasingly affirm my endorsement of sustainable farming practices. The use of whole ingredients, slow roasting, and "tiny batches" testifies to my discerning appreciation of the artisan and to my rejection of the industrial food system. The dried sour cherries and salt and extra-virgin olive oil prove the sophistication of my palate: I am beyond the easy pleasures of butter and unadulterated sweetness. I don't do yoga, but if I did, I am reassured to read on the pouch that a recommended occasion for enjoying the granola is when I'm "striking warrior pose." And by buying this granola, a sticker informs me, I am "giving to GLSEN, an anti-bullying organization." I know $9 is a lot to pay, but this isn't just food.

Or is it? Read the full article for more on the "twee comedy of eating Brooklynishly, and...the twee sincerity of producing Brooklynishly" and then tell us what you think!

Read More: The Twee Party at New York Magazine

Related: The Food Lover's Guide to Brooklyn

(Image: Illustration by Zohar Lazar)

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