The Kitchen will be featuring a weekly column by our resident wine correspondent, Jenny Desmond. With eight years in the business, a sense of humor about wine, and a open and an affable approach to the subject. Please join me in welcoming Jenny to the team - we hope to drink a lot with her, and learn a few things along the way.
Eric Asimov's article in Wednesday's New York Times raved about White Rhône Blends from California. These aromatic white wines are delicious, and so are their red skinned cousins, which are also popping up in California.
Originating in Southern France, the key Rhône grapes are: Grenache, Syrah, Carignane, Mouvedre and Counoise. Any wine labeled as a Rhône will be a blend of some or all of these grapes. When blended together these varieties highlight each other's best features. A delightful medley of fruity raspberry flavors with peppery spice and, at least when it comes to the California versions, some nice toasty oak which make the wines silky and smooth. These are heartier wines that will pair well with meat, game and stews.
I notice not many people mention Italy and Syrah, yet Sicily seems to be producing a ton of it lately, often blended with Nero d'Avola. Unlike in Cali and the Rhone, I doubt there is any mouvedre or grenache grown down there (maybe some cannonau). But I have to be curious whether there is a Rhone like-blend that includes the luscious Nero d'Avola.
Italian Wine Merchants would know the answer.
g58: As far as I know there is no Grenache, Mouvedre or Carignane grown in Sicily. The closest thing would be Perricone, which is Grenachelike in style. Although with all of Sicily's recent experimentations with Syrah, I doubt it will be long before they introduce these other Rhone blends. You might want to email Italian Wine Merchants; they are experts in this arena.- -Jenny