apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time


Going Underground: Department Store Food Halls
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo is a food lover's paradise. Home to a bustling fish market with ultra-fresh, affordable sushi; tiny kiosks selling sizzling hot yakitori (grilled chicken skewers); and 7-Elevens offering onigiri (seasoned rice balls wrapped in nori), the city's streets are an easy place for a visitor to find a fast, fresh meal.

But venture down a flight of stairs or two and you'll discover that an important part of the city's food culture is hidden well below street level...

 
 

...in depachika - the basement gourmet food halls of major department stores.

On a trip to Tokyo earlier this month, I visited one such food hall - at Matsuzakaya department store, in the Ginza district of Tokyo. I stopped by on a Monday morning, just before the lunchtime rush, and took a look around.

The place was filled with individual vendor stalls selling everything from beautifully packaged rice crackers, to imported chocolates, to freshly packed bento box lunches, exquisite teas, and a dazzling array of fresh pastries. I didn't know where to start. I zeroed in on the grocery store occupying a large corner of the floor, and began to explore:

TOP ROW
• 1 Entering the food hall at Tokyo's Matsuzakaya department store in Ginza. Vendors call out "Irrashaimase" or "Welcome" as customers pass.
• 2 Wine, sake, and a counter devoted to European deli foods
• 3 Inside the grocery store: Mayonnaise (including the iconic Kewpie) on display
• 4 Pricey gift boxes of cherries (3,150 yen is roughly equivalent to 32 U.S. dollars!)
• 5 More fancy fruit

BOTTOM ROW
• 6 A grocery store section devoted to salt
• 7 Assorted varieties of Asian mushrooms
• 8 Bundles of shiso leaves
• 9 Points for presentation: A sushi lunchbox garnished with parsley and aster flowers
• 10 So much to choose from!

2009_06_28-Cherries.jpgHave you ever visited a depachika?

Related: Tsukiji Fish Market

(Images: Nora Maynard)

Tags

Travel, Supermarkets, Japan, Tokyo

Related Links

Share

Comments (19)

These spots below department stores are a great place to get gifts for your hosts, but PRICEY. If you want to score some snacks for the hotel, some of the larger subway stations have grocery stores on the concourse level with less fabulously-packaged goods but still great fun and wonderful selection.

posted by cmcinnyc on June 29th 2009 at 11:12am
view cmcinnyc's profile

I have! Loved it and makes the food court in American malls pale in comparison.

Some photos from our trip a few years ago:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ollie_lizard/53193220/in/set-1153289/

posted by Darlene on June 29th 2009 at 11:37am
view Darlene's profile

These are such great places.
So many choices, beautifully made and thoughtfully packaged. I especially like that it is always so clean! Japan is wonderful this way.

posted by stt64 on June 29th 2009 at 12:03pm
view stt64's profile

Well, living in Tokyo it can seem like a food paradise but the truth is it only is if you are interested in Japanese food or favorites to the Japanese palette. Finding decent Mexican, Middle Eastern/Greek (Kebab aside), and other ethnic foods is tough. Beer is another hard one. A tasty IPA is hard to find due to high taxes (less breweries). I was spoiled living in the US when I did. Coming back here left me craving things from the states.


*Not that above items are impossible, just difficult/rare (like less than 10 restaurants in the whole city, Yokohama/Kawasaki included)

posted by Domyoji on June 29th 2009 at 1:32pm
view Domyoji's profile

Agreed that these places are a lovely feast for the senses, but very pricey compared to other options. I didn't shop in them much in my two years in Japan.

posted by komori on June 29th 2009 at 1:34pm
view komori's profile

Oh, also on the subject of the food Kiosks under department stores/ in Tokyu. Best time to go is the evening, if you wanna get some cheap goods and plan to eat them quickly. Often have "Time Service" discounts.

posted by Domyoji on June 29th 2009 at 1:35pm
view Domyoji's profile

Department store basements do have some tasty finds, but less expensive are the ekibiru (department store adjoined to train stations) bentos and food offerings. In my experience, they're less expensive than high-end department stores, but still offer a wide selection of really great food.

Besides, it's Japan. It's hard to go wrong when it comes to food.

posted by Azusa on June 29th 2009 at 2:47pm
view Azusa's profile

yes!! I just loved admiring all of the food, including insanely large piles of seaweed (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bronhoffer/537011612/in/set-72157600284847060/), $90 melons, and the like.

posted by beedub on June 29th 2009 at 5:22pm
view beedub's profile

I've been to the basement of department stores many, many times (lived in Tokyo for 20 years and still there) and, though everything looks great, these places are far too expensive. In fact, the problem is that they are meaninglessly expensive. Essentially, you're paying for the gift boxing and artful arrangement of food (and the quality of the food isn't always very good) and those ultra clean-looking, nicely-arranged spaces.

While people who have never lived in Japan glorify its shops over those in the U.S., the reality is that they have hole in the wall, cheap, grubby places, too, but no one writes posts about them on blogs or sings their praises. Showing places like this is like only showing Macy's best stores as a representative of America's department store culture.

Frankly, the best thing about the Japanese department stores are the free samples they sometimes give away. You wouldn't want to waste your money actually buying stuff in them.

posted by Orchid64 on June 29th 2009 at 7:42pm
view Orchid64's profile

You're a bit lucky to get away with taking photos in a depachika (and supermarkets). They're not allowed.

posted by Kenshi on June 29th 2009 at 8:53pm
view Kenshi's profile

Lived in Japan for a year, shopped at the depachika only for a.) samples b.) sales c.) gifts.

Hated all that excess wrapping. Peaches do not need to be in plastic containers wrapped with styrofoam mesh.

posted by rebeccatt on June 30th 2009 at 2:20am
view rebeccatt's profile

There are underground food halls in other countries too- like David Jones in Melbourne.

posted by bkk on June 30th 2009 at 2:41am
view bkk's profile

We found these underground food heavens in Osaka too. What a treat for foodies. Everything was beautifully presented and packaged. We ended up buying these amazing chocolate cream filled donut things.

I get the feeling that I'd only really buy the food from the places as a gift or a very special treat. Otherwise, why would you need all the fancy packaging?

posted by buda on June 30th 2009 at 5:46am
view buda's profile

Re: Buda's comment:

Trust me, the fancy over packaging goes much further than the expensive food at Department stores. Plastic wrapped single bananas, Kitkats in a box that contains two individually wrapped chocolates, Box of 20 cookies and each is individually wrapped, single tomato on a plastic/Styrofoam board that is triple plastic wrapped, etc. I love the stance Japan now has on the whole "I do eco" thing, but really eliminating some of the packaging would be much more eco than me simply walking/taking the train everywhere and using a reusable grocery sack.

Oh, and to anyone visiting my fair city (actually I am a Kawasakian, not a Tokyoite, but can literally see Tokyo from my apartment) this summer the Pepsi flavor is Shiso. I strongly suggest trying it. Its like an herbal blast when you first open it. Entry is sweet, followed by a very sharp shiso flavor.

posted by Domyoji on June 30th 2009 at 7:58am
view Domyoji's profile

Ah yes! I visited these in Tokyo, and again in Kanazawa. They are wonderful, if not pricey!

posted by Kathryn Hill on June 30th 2009 at 12:30pm
view Kathryn Hill's profile

I grew up in Japan and definitely thought that the packaging was bordering on obsessive but I recently read something about why cookies and senbeis were often wrapped individually. Crackers, cookies and senbeis would lose their crunch from the humidity so the individual packaging helps prevent this after the bag is opened.

posted by hareyakara on June 30th 2009 at 2:40pm
view hareyakara's profile

Oh and we used to go the depa chika because many "foreign" items not available at regular stores were available there. This was in the 70s and 80s.

posted by hareyakara on June 30th 2009 at 2:42pm
view hareyakara's profile

The best thing I did the first few months we lived in Tokyo was to attend an English language tour of the food floor at ISETAN in Shinjuku.

At that time--2001--the tour was offered in the Autumn. There were only a few people on the tour, and the very kind guide taught us so much about Japanese food. It was a wonderful introduction to Japanese food. The tour, plus samples and gifts, was free.

I highly recommend membership in Iseten's "I Club" for anyone moving to Tokyo. membership includes a 5% discount, help with shopping, and a monthly English language newsletter containing information about special promotional sales (held in a special area, not the basement) see this months fair at
http://www.isetan.co.jp/icm2/jsp/store/shinjuku/info/iclub/pdf/englishJuly.pdf)

posted by lilysan on July 1st 2009 at 5:33pm
view lilysan's profile

Sorry my previous link did not work--please click on "News" here:
http://www.isetan.co.jp/icm2/jsp/store/shinjuku/info/iclub/index.jsp

posted by lilysan on July 1st 2009 at 5:47pm
view lilysan's profile