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Following My Nose in Florence

2009_6_11-florence-gelato.jpgWe've been here in Florence for a few days, wandering the bumpity-bump streets jet-lagged with a two-year-old who has finally had her first slurps of gelato and refers to fresh porcini as "meat" that she wants to "chunk." For the uninitiated, to chunk it is to take a bite out of something; new culinary vocabulary we might all want to add to our culinary lexicon. Even a two-year old knows Italy makes you dive deep into your mind for ways to describe eating.

 
 

Tomorrow I'll stroll the city with an expert, ex-pat Judy Witts Francini, who leads tours and culinary classes here in Tuscany. But for now, it's just been me and the family, following our noses.

Here are some highlights. Of course, most of why Italy tastes so good is the ingredients available right here, right now. Don't worry, I'll be returning with some re-imagined recipes that you and I can make any old time back home.


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Buying apricots on the vine from an impromptu farm stand in the Piazza Santo Spirito. A kilo and a quarter was 3 euro, about $4.25. We'll be eating them for days and turning the mushed ones into a dessert for the friends we visit this weekend.



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It's true that in Italy you must eat gelato every day. This is last night's catch: dark chocolate and pistachio from La Carraia Gelateria near the Ponte alla Carraia.



2009_6_11-porcini-chunk-it.jpg
The taglierini and fresh porcini that my daughter devoured at lunch today. Did I "have the heart" to break it to her that the mushroom in fact wasn't "meat?" Oh yes. At two, the beauty is, you can say this delicious gift is a fresh porcini and have them instantly hooked for life, even if she still says "I want to chunk that piece of meat" while pointing to a mushroom.



2009_6_11-cavolo-nero-burrata-etc.jpg
Maxwell and I split the difference on our first lunch courses today and made something outrageous. My bruschetta with cavolo nero (tuscan kale, also seen in US markets as black kale or dinosaur kale) at left, with his little pile of burrata cheese (a creamy mozzarella) and prosciutto at right. In the middle is our new burrata, prosciutto and cavolo nero bruschetta and you'd better believe we'll be trying this at home.



More next week, after I've toured Florence with a real pro.

Ciao! Arrivederci!

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Travel, Florence, Italy, posted email

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Comments (7)

oooooooooh man, i am going to Italy next month and i can't WAIT to eat my way through Florence!!

posted by kittystockings on June 12th 2009 at 1:15pm
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I know there are words and other pictures in this post, but all I can see is gelato. That is almost cruelly unfair. So jealous I'm drooling.

posted by Kakugori on June 12th 2009 at 5:32pm
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While you're there, try Enzo & Piero on via Faienza. They have a great menu with the best prices in Florence: salads start at 5 euro, contorni at 3 euro and secondi (meat course) starting at 7 euro. The street is a block east of the train station.

Judy also has a website Divina Cucina that breaks down her favorite restaurants into neighborhoods. Ask her for the name of the one starting with the word Antico in the Oltrarno neighborhood where her father-in-law used to stop for coffee every day and order the Bistecca Fiorentina there. It will be enough for the 3 of you.

posted by justafoodie on June 12th 2009 at 5:44pm
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$4.25 for a kilo and a quarter of apricots?

Here in Morocco I just bought a kilo of them for $0.75!

posted by moema on June 13th 2009 at 4:28am
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please gaze at the Duomo for me while you're there. preferrably while you eat something delicious.

posted by splatgirl on June 13th 2009 at 1:58pm
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ciao! Don't miss a great Panino col Lampredotto by "Narbone" within the "San Lorenzo" market.

posted by saramuzzi on June 19th 2009 at 5:09am
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as I am Italian and currently living in italy everything seemed pretty normal to me (the gelato, the spaghetti, etc) except for the price of apricots which is definitely a bit too much. I am glad you enjoyed italy. The pictures are beautiful and offer an interesting image of italy from a different angle and not the usual churches fountains and piazze.
Ciao
anna

posted by arietia on June 26th 2009 at 2:10pm
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