apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time


The Squeakier the Better: Cheese Curds
The Cheesemonger

2009_05_04-cheesecurds2.jpgWhat's been largely a dairy belt phenomenon is now steadily making its way to a wider audience of eager eaters. The humble cheese curd is gaining in popularity, with culinary applications that go way beyond the deep fryer.

Never had them? Now's a good a time as any, especially considering their price...

 
 

2009_05_04-cheesecurds3.jpg

Maybe you've seen them around, looking much like the picture above, perhaps at street fairs or amusement parks. But they're also sold in packages, plain, for those in need of an at-home fix.

A cheese curd is a snapshot of the very first stage of cheesemaking, that is, the acidification of milk and its separation into solid (curd) and liquid (whey). After cultures are added to a vat of milk, the mixture is then heated to encourage souring and then sits for about three and a half hours. Then, as curds form, they're drained from the whey and packaged in their natural, irregularly shaped pieces.

If at this point the curds were then piled into molds, pressed to release them of extra whey, and aged, they'd become aged cheese. But cheese curds are genius: since they don't need to age, the turnaround time for profit is much quicker, and there's more product to sell upfront.

Cheese curds are equally creamy and tart: they take on both characteristics of that newly acidified milk. But what's most addictive is the squeak from biting down on them! Eat cheese curds plain-- they're great as a high-protein snack. To melt, it's easiest to grate the curds on a box grater. When heated, the cheese elasticizes, becoming ribbony and smooth, adding a unique textural component to mashed potatoes (it's the not-so-secret ingredient for the mashed potatoes at Keith McNally's newest restaurant, Minetta Tavern), purees, scrambled eggs, and grilled cheese.

Ellsworth Creamery in Ellsworth, Wisconsin, has been making cheese for nearly 100 years. They're perhaps the best-known and most widely distributed maker of cheese curds, and theirs are cheddar cheese curds, which means that the starter bacteria and culture used to acidify the milk are designed specifically for the making of cheddar.

This year, they'll make 3.6 million pounds of cheese curds. Sounds like just about enough to get beyond the boundaries of the dairy belt... and then some.

Ellsworth Creamery Cheese Curds are available by mailorder at Murray's Cheese for $3.49/half pound package.

Related: The Cheesemonger: Cheddar

Image: Flickr member Dalboz17 and smcgee licensed under Creative Commons.

Tags

The Cheesemonger, Cheese, cheesemaking, Ellsworth Creamery, cheese curds

Share

Comments (23)

Ah cheese curds...an essential item when making poutine!

posted by little_melly on May 5th 2009 at 6:12am
view little_melly's profile

I grew up in Cuba, N.Y., which has a long history of cheese-making (there's even a cheese museum there). They still manufacture cheese in town, and at the Cuba Cheese Shoppe, the cheese curd is my favorite and it very squeaky!

posted by katdono on May 5th 2009 at 7:23am
view katdono's profile

I second little_melly ... it's astounding that a post on cheese curds fails to mention one of the most famous uses for cheese curds. Real poutine uses fresh cheddar cheese curds... so squeaky and yummy!

posted by angorian on May 5th 2009 at 8:24am
view angorian's profile

Yummmm...my dad was a cheesemaker, and growing up we had curd all the time. He'd bring home huge bags of it, still warm from the vat. We were spoiled.

posted by Hellcat13 on May 5th 2009 at 8:26am
view Hellcat13's profile

I had these plain when visiting Wisconsin. So good. And the squeak is just hillarious!!

posted by dabble on May 5th 2009 at 8:43am
view dabble's profile

Cheese curds are a popular snack in Quebec, where they are readily available in grocery stores and convenience stores.

(and poutine cannot be made without them)

posted by mschatelaine on May 5th 2009 at 8:59am
view mschatelaine's profile

Are those deep fried cheese curds? There is no way that could be bad...

posted by konar on May 5th 2009 at 9:31am
view konar's profile

That picture has me craving fried cheese curds in a ferocious way. I hadn't realized, when moving from Minnesota to Boston that one of the things I'd be giving up was the yearly State Fair deep fried cheese curds. Oh heavens, there's just nothing like them. HOW have these not permeated the country?

posted by Mara on May 5th 2009 at 10:03am
view Mara's profile

Mara - are these simply breaded and deep-fried? I didn't know about this being an east-coaster, and it has peeked my curiosity. It sounds like Wednesday's dinner experiment has been lined up for me

posted by konar on May 5th 2009 at 10:21am
view konar's profile

When and how do they squeek?

posted by Kate (NC) on May 5th 2009 at 10:40am
view Kate (NC)'s profile

Another poutine fan! Mmmm...it has been too long.

posted by Hanna on May 5th 2009 at 11:25am
view Hanna's profile

They squeak when you bite into them Kate, although I don't know why. Something about the pressure of your teeth on their slightly waxy surface? I'm from dairy country and I miss these. The deep-fried ones are just lightly breaded - I think its an egg-then-flour thing - konar. They're killer, both in taste and for your cholesterol levels.

posted by cedargr0 on May 5th 2009 at 11:38am
view cedargr0's profile

Poutine rocks! I concur with angorian, there should've been an honourable mention of poutine in the post. Mmmm, I'm off to have poutine-ridden daydreams!

posted by morphomercedes on May 5th 2009 at 11:55am
view morphomercedes's profile

I didn't know you could buy cheese curds that WEREN'T deep fried until I was well into my 20s. They are the essential State Fair food in Minnesota. We get them every year at the fair and sometimes at the handful of places around town that serve them.

But, I just discovered Poutine, so I will be eating fresh ones semi-regularly now.

posted by Kassie on May 5th 2009 at 12:23pm
view Kassie's profile

Trader Joe's has been carrying them. My husband grew up in upstate New York dairy country and loves them.

posted by feathers on May 5th 2009 at 1:57pm
view feathers's profile

Poutine, the right way, is made with curds and not shredded cheese *shivers thiking on shredded cheese on poutine*

There is also a big debate in Québec: how do you call them? 'Curds' or 'Crottes de fromage' (which litteraly translate to 'cheese poop' (sorry!)). There is also a Curd Festival in Quebec, in the summer. Just tought I should mention it.

I like curds in salads too.

It squeeks only when fresh!

...deep fried curds? Ô.o

posted by Marie-Eve on May 5th 2009 at 2:15pm
view Marie-Eve's profile

POUTINE.

posted by Kathryn Hill on May 5th 2009 at 2:35pm
view Kathryn Hill's profile

I grew up obsessed w/ the curds from the Tillamook Cheese Factory in my home state of Oregon. I have to say the Trader Joe's ones are a bit of a let-down--not quite squeaky in my opinion. Maybe I should give them another try.

posted by katef on May 5th 2009 at 4:38pm
view katef's profile

living close to the IL/WI border we get these a lot in our trips to wi. my grandma used to stock up on bags of them and i loved them! and i just now discovered culvers had deepfried cheesecurds.

posted by erinpearce on May 5th 2009 at 7:04pm
view erinpearce's profile

WoW! You were right when you mentioned Ellsworth Creamery. However, their sales are now at 7.7 million for 2008. Their cheese curds are by far the best ever! And Murray's Cheese Shop in NYC has them! They believe in making a Quality cheese curd and they believe that begins with Quality milk - which is rBST free!
Remember to microwave for just 15 seconds and you will experience the Fresh SQUEAK! They have recipes on their web site. www.ellsworthcheesecurds.com

posted by cheesehead on May 6th 2009 at 8:19am
view cheesehead's profile

For the AT folks in Québec, la Fromagerie Saint-Albert is zee place. They squeek-a-plenty!

posted by Marie-Eve on May 6th 2009 at 12:11pm
view Marie-Eve's profile

Kate(NC) - Cheese curds only squeak when freshest, as most of the liquid has been squeezed out of the curd. The longer a curd sits, the more moisture gets reabsorbed into the curd and thus it loses its squeak. When I lived in WI and tried to buy the curds from the supermarket, they were never very squeaky, so it goes pretty quickly.

Konar - I've seen deep fried curds mostly battered and fried, once or twice I've seen them breaded. The fried curds are a staple at the state fair as well as a great bar appetizer.

posted by kasiav on May 7th 2009 at 8:34am
view kasiav's profile

I demand a poutine post!

posted by bixology on May 21st 2009 at 12:32pm
view bixology's profile