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Wrapped in cherry leaves which have been steeped in brandy, Robiola La Rossa evokes all those comforting smells and a million more. Ever since we got it into the shop, I can't stop smelling it. It's very strange indeed.

The liquored-up leaves open up to reveal a soft bloomy-rind and another, earthier odor. Digging even deeper, the soft off-white rind encases a lush creamy interior. There are hints of berries and a light, sweet butter flavor with very little lingering taste. I found it deceptively easy to snack on and possibly finish a whole wheel in one sitting. Those who have tried more popular young cheeses such as Robiola Bosina or Perail de Brebis will find a lot of similarities with La Rossa.

With the hot weather outside, I can't help but think of ways to keep cool. For a refreshing summer picnic, pack a wheel of La Rossa, a bottle of Prosecco, some fruit salad and fresh buttermilk biscuits. No, don't take baguettes; the sour tanginess of the buttermilk biscuit would just be heaven when topped with this easily-spreadable cheese.

Robiola La Rossa is available for $8.99 from Murray's Cheese and $10.50 from
Artisanal.

- Patrick