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The Cheesemonger: Burrata

(Special Thursday edition of The Cheesemonger thanks to the Labor Day holiday royally messing with our editorial calendar.)

9-6-cheesemonger-burrata.jpgThere's a reason a red squiggly line appears under the word burrata in a Word document. Even Microsoft Office engineers, as caseophilically adept as we'd like to believe they are, are just, well, not. Which brings me to you, humble reader. If enlightened you have not already been by the joys of burrata, get thee promptly to a cheese store listed at the end of this post.

 
 

In all seriousness, burrata uniquely captures the fine line between milk and cheese. When newly formed curd is heated in a vat, its protein chains can become elastic, allowing the cheesemaker to stretch the curd. Hence the family of "pasta filata," or "pulled curd" cheeses like mozzarella, provolone, and cacciocavallo.

9-6-cheesemonger-burrata2.jpgWith burrata, the cheesemaker forms a small pocket of stretched curd and stuffs it with fresh cream and stringy curds from the vat. Tied off at the top, the result is an apple-sized ball of cheese that closely resembles fresh mozzarella, with a leaky, cream-filled interior that ruptures when put under the knife, so to speak. Its flavor ranges from a plesant milky sourness to a spitting incarnation of sweet heavy cream.

Most burrata in the States comes from Puglia, where it is traditionally served with oysters. While I've never tried this duo, something tells me that it's best enjoyed on the Adriatic coast. I prefer mine plain, or with a drizzle of rich olive oil and freshly ground pepper. Try it while you can with some local heirlooms for a new take on a Caprese salad.

One piece will serve anywhere from one (trust me) to six consumers.

Burrata is widely available at gourmet markets, including Whole Foods Bowery ($9.99/each) and Murray's Cheese ($8.99/each), and Bedford Cheese Shop in Williamsburg ($8).

(photos: Bedford Cheese Shop and Agritour Puglia)

- Nora S.

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Comments (5)

Lucky New Yorkers!!

Burrata is much harder to come by here in Chicago. I have purchased a few this summer at Pastoral in Boystown, but the actual Puglia version is much harder to come by here. Other places get burrata from California or (gasp!) Michigan.

I prefer to wait for the real thing - even if it means getting it less frequently.

posted by Kathryn on 2007-09-06 14:01:17
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Burrata at A16 in San Francisco. Yum.

posted by art on 2007-09-06 15:38:28
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We ate a lot of burrata-filled panini in Florence a couple springs ago. There was one with fresh peas and burata that was out of this world. Oh man.

posted by katef on 2007-09-06 17:23:03
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YUM.. I discovered the joy of Burrata at Murray's, and have found that there's a few different varieties. The one that WF's carries is larger (hence the higher price), but is also a little sweeter and milkier, compared to the slightly more flavorful Murray's version. Both are amazingly luscious sliced over hot pasta with a drizzle of EVOO and smoked sea salt.

I've read that California's Cowgirl Creamery makes a 1lb version, or imports it? If its a US version, I'm very intrigued and would love to get my hands on one someday.

posted by cheflaura on 2007-09-06 22:05:54
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In DC, Whole Foods has a burrata that's okay but not great - but also quite a bit cheaper. Balducci's (AU Park, Bethesda) carries "real" burrata, and I think I saw it at Dean and Deluca as well.

2 Amy's (best pizza in town!) has burrata as an appetiser; their source makes the best burrata I've ever tried, and the restaurant's offering is generous and reasonably priced. Just add some ground black pepper, and experience dairy crack!

-RS

posted by Rahul S. on 2008-11-20 06:15:15
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