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Does the US Government Actively Discourage Local Food?

2008_03_03-Govmnt.jpgWe talk a lot about local food here at The Kitchn. We believe that your cooking can be better when informed by your local seasons and crop cycles. We also want to stay connected with local farmers and growers.

So we were shocked to read this opening statement in Jack Hedin's weekend article for The Times:

Consumers who would like to be able to buy local fruits and vegetables not just at farmers’ markets, but also in the produce aisle of their supermarket, will be dismayed to learn that the federal government works deliberately and forcefully to prevent the local food movement from expanding.

What gives?

 
 

Hedin, a small organic vegetable farmer from Minnesota, tells how he is being penalized for growing local vegetables on land that was zoned for growing subsidized crops: corn, soybeans, wheat and cotton.

He says:

Last year, knowing that my own 100 acres wouldn’t be enough to meet demand, I rented 25 acres on two nearby corn farms. I plowed under the alfalfa hay that was established there, and planted watermelons, tomatoes and vegetables for natural-food stores and a community-supported agriculture program.

But the Farm Service Administration, the branch of the Agriculture Department that runs the commodities program, discovered this and told him he would have to pay back the subsidy the landowners received to grow those crops. So he was out nearly $9000 for trying to keep up with local demand for local produce.

He believes that large growers in California, Florida, and Texas actively encourage these policies to stamp out local competition.

We're curious - did you read this, and how does it match up to other things you've read about the subsidies program, the Farm Bill, and corporate farming in America?

• Read the whole article here: My Forbidden Fruits (and Vegetables)

(Image credit: Jacob Magraw-Mickelson for The New York Times)

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Roundup - NY Times Dining Section, Reading, Food Politics, GREEN IDEAS, farmers, government, local food

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Comments (15)

Monika 1 referenced this article in a previous thread.

It didn't surprise me at all because I see this frustration first hand when I deal with local farmers.

I used to deal with a pig farmer who raises heirloom pigs on land that has never had pesticides. He is the third generation. His pigs are free-range and are fed mostly on acorns and corn that he grows for them.

Is he organic? No. Why? Because the government has not deemed him organic. Why haven't they deemed him organic? Because he can't afford the process.

It's a tough world that doesn't often pay off for certain people. Even if you are doing the right thing.

In order to be able to continue raising his pigs, he had to supplement by selling chickens, something he never wanted to do nor could he afford to. But a local heavy-hitting chef actually paid for a large portion of the chicken processing facility to make it worth it.

Hmmm....interesting. Private subsidization of local food producers. May not get you a USDA Organic stamp, but it's something.

This subsidization of commodity crops is an out of control monster. Even the farmers around where I group up admit it. Farming, as they used to know it, has just been bred out of them.

I'm itching more and more to start my own business so that I can be part of something good. To take myself off the commodity grid so to speak.

posted by art on March 3rd 2008 at 12:34pm
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even the farmers wehre I "grew" up admit it.

posted by art on March 3rd 2008 at 12:36pm
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Sorry. To answer the question, "does the government actively discourage local food?" I would have to say that, in my limited observations, I guess, by making it expensive and a hassle to be a local food producer, they are certainly not encouraging it.

Again, I don't think it's as a simple as saying it's some sort of a conspiracy against goodness, I think it's the need for the government to streamline the food industry. By streamlining the industry, the job of Federal inspectors is black and white. By streamlining, the cost of commodities can be stabilized.

We don't have centuries of deep-seeded culinary traditions in America. We can't expect the government to be emotional about a perfect baguette, air dried sausages or unpasteurized cheese. Right Arnold? These things can and will easily be swept aside for industrialized sustenance supported by the government and deemed safe by the government for you to eat. If someone wants to think outside the box, well, it's going to be more expensive I guess, just like modern design.

posted by art on March 3rd 2008 at 12:52pm
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This graphic says it all:

http://www.treehugger.com/pyramid.jpg

posted by angorian on March 3rd 2008 at 12:53pm
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Hmm. I don't think it has to do with the government having to streamline the food industry. I think it has to do with the tremendous weight the lobbyists from the large agribusinesses yield in Washington, and everywhere else.

posted by SFGail on March 3rd 2008 at 1:18pm
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When dealing with local issues, instigating change on a local level can prove to be highly effective: USDA Nutrition Programs: Arizona Farmers' Market Nutrition Program. Reestablishing this program was a grassroots effort.

posted by OneWallKitchen on March 3rd 2008 at 2:16pm
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angorian, wowwowowow that's insane!

posted by kdkaboom on March 3rd 2008 at 2:26pm
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I don't know the facts and myths involved in the upper levels, regarding laws and regulations and typical dealings.

But in *this* particular case that was highlighted, the landowner DID receive a subsidy ($9k it seems) from the government, and THEN turned around to rent it out to the MN farmer. Vegetables and fruits aside, you just don't take money for what you SHOULD be doing and then rent it out to someone else / for something else.

As I said, it could be more complex than just fruits and vegetables, but I do not think the farmer was being discriminated for planting wholefoods at all. That's so not the point, IMO. If the landowner did NOT receive the subsidy, I doubt the MN farmer would have been fined. Instead, he's paying for the actions of the landowner.

posted by MintC on March 4th 2008 at 5:30am
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Well come on, in this story the landlord farmer was Double dipping.  

He got Paid to grow corn, he then got paid by the renter farmer that grew the veggies.

The government is not discouraging the local farming in this case.  The Landlord Farmer is trying to pull a fast one and got caught.

So now here comes the Spin!  
"The Government is Discouraging Local produce"  

- That is just Plain BS!

posted by phauxtoe on March 4th 2008 at 5:42am
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I think the concern expressed here is summed up in the following:
"I’ve discovered that typically, a farmer who grows the forbidden fruits and vegetables on corn acreage not only has to give up his subsidy for the year on that acreage, he is also penalized the market value of the illicit crop..."
It's not really clear if the farmers renting the acreage were indeed subsidized for that part of their property or not, and I'm not quite sure from the piece what part of the $8,771 was repayment of the subsidy and what part was penalty.

posted by LauraII on March 4th 2008 at 6:17am
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The op-ed doesn't make clear whether the landowners were double-dipping by receiving a subsidy for a crop they didn't plant. It doesn't say whether the landowners gave up their subsidy that year or not.

The $8,771 the farmer paid the landowners was likely for a combination of the rent and the penalty for the "illicit" crop, since if the landowners had taken a subsidy that needed to be returned they would be the ones responsible for paying it back, not the farmer.

posted by Shawn on March 4th 2008 at 10:48am
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Subsidy means money!

A farmer can't grow corn every season or it kills the soil. By not growing anything or rotating crops, the soil is rejuvenated. Subsidies are given even when not growing the cash crop.

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2007/08/alfalfa_on_etha.php

Alfalfa is a standard rotation for Corn. The Illicit crop was not a replenishment crop! It would tax the soil and not benefit the corn. That is a problem.

When you try and Steal, a penalty is appropriate!

You can't have your cake and eat it too! The landowners were Double dipping!

The story seems deliberately vague on some points. I think Sour apples are involved!

posted by phauxtoe on March 5th 2008 at 6:12am
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One thing about exclamation points is that they generally don't help with clarity.

The article simply doesn't state whether the landowners continued to take the subsidy when they decided to rent out the land for a non-subsidy crop, so an emphatic statement that they were "double dipping" is specious.

posted by Shawn on March 6th 2008 at 7:36am
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Well Shawn, you certainly noticed!

What you didnt notice in the article was that-

"...the Farm Service said, my landlords were out of compliance with the commodity program."

Am I going out on a limb by saying the landlords were in the commodity program?

If they are IN the program,

they ARE subsidized!

posted by phauxtoe on March 7th 2008 at 11:04am
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I realize this is an older posting but I wanted to share this website in an appropriate place.

http://nrdc.org/health/foodmiles/default.asp

posted by VeryDelishVeg on August 11th 2008 at 3:33pm
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