Blogging The New York Times Magazine: Meat Pies (and a Little Snobbery)

A meat pie, with its rich gravy, tender chunks of beef, and buttery crust, sounds like heaven when it's cold out (and, for us, it still is). This week's New York Times Magazine has an article about traditional British meat pies, but don't go getting any ideas about making them in individually-sized pots or using puff pastry as a shortcut. Chef Fergus Henderson compares the latter to "an orange nylon T-shirt. It connects neither to the person wearing it nor to the outside world."

The reference, we think, is meant to mean that the crust should be a homey extension of the filling- something equally well-crafted and harmonious, rather than an artificial topping.

We agree that making something from scratch is almost always better in terms of taste, health, and cost. So we'll give it to Henderson on the crust. But no small sizes? Henderson says, "The singular pie is a weird, modern anomaly."

This from a man who flavors his pies with "trotter gear," a stock made from simmered pigs' feet. Obviously he is not one for cute or quick applications. But we think the individual pot pie is a lovely thing, great for entertaining or a single-serving dinner for one.

Either way, the recipe for Guinness Pie looks delicious.

• Read the article and let us know what you think: Put a Lid on It, from The New York Times

(Image: Zachary Zavislak for The New York Times)

Comments (3)

Jolly ho! I love a good meat pie.

Fergus Henderson is a clever chap but I'll disagree with him on the singular sized pie. There's no reason why such a thing cannot be just as nice as a big size.

I am addicted to the Jamaican style beef "pattie" ala places like Golden Krust in New York. They are a hand-held, golden, flaky, spicy beef filled snack food. Not exactly good for you but one bite and the idea of the potential goodness of meat pie is realized.

posted by art on February 23rd 2009 at 12:04pm
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As a former US ex-pat in Australia, I really miss a good meat pie. But I can guarantee that there's a nation of folks who'll fight for their right to an individual-sized pie! Nothing beats it on a rainy Melbourne day at the Telstra Dome...it's like the garlic fries at Candlestick or a sausage from the guy at Fenway.

posted by Kealoha on February 23rd 2009 at 1:13pm
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i love jamie oliver's guinness pie recipe (looks like the nytimes recipe is partially based on it) - the puff pastry does save some time and it is pretty but i don't think it holds up to the filling very well, so i'll be trying with homemade pastry next time (i already have some in the freezer, too!).

posted by bokeh on February 23rd 2009 at 2:39pm
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