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The New Gourmet: Recipes for Varmint

2008_01_31-Varmint.jpg

We break from our regularly scheduled programming to let you know that the new Gourmet website is reaching further back into the magazine's fabled archives and bringing forth... varmints?

 
 

The Gourmet website republished a selection of recipes from their back issues to show what their readers in the 40's, 50's, and 60's did with woodchucks and wild hare. They do stipulate that these recipes have not been retested; they are more cultural artifact than dinner tonight.

We were especially taken with the instructions for Braised Beaver, originally published October 1950:

First trap your beaver. Then…

Skin and clean a young beaver, removing the kernels from the small of the back and under each foreleg between the ribs and shoulders. Hang it outdoors for several chilly nights.

Roast Raccoon, Creamed Woodchucked, and Squirrel in Cider follow along.

We're curious, though - is Gourmet making light of recipes that were once quite tongue-in-cheek? Or perhaps we should actually take them a little more seriously. Given Mark Bittman's recent piece in the Times maybe we should all look for more natural sources of meat.

A side note: Gourmet did dress up these recipes with new photos by Catherine Ledner, whom we recently featured on our New York site.

Comments (9)

Urgh.

posted by Aldyth on 2008-01-31 11:20:39
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Locavorism anyone?

My neighbors used to eat squirrel alot.

Raccoons eat a lot of garbage I don't know if they'd taste very good.

I should research ground squirrel recipes though because they have invaded my parents yard with hundreds of tunnels.

The beaver recipe calls for removing the "kernels". That must be the oyster meat.

I've eaten a version of wild guinea pig called "cui" from Ecuador. I would not want to make that a regular staple of my diet.

I haven't read the article but I think this type of subject matter is worth reading about and it doesn't have to be facetious. Brunswick stew is still a popular dish in some parts of America and it originally called for squirrel. It's history really. What were the famous words? Remember history or be doomed to repeat it. Something like that.

posted by art on 2008-01-31 11:31:31
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From what I've heard, squirrel meat can be good eating and is a little like rabbit meat. The best squirrel is apparently found where there are lots of oak trees, as the acorns seem to make the meat tastier. I would also suspect that raccoons wouldn't be too tasty.

posted by Michelle of Montreal on 2008-01-31 12:31:29
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Judith Jones, famous editor at Knopf of Julia Child, Claudia Roden and many, many more, talks about a recipe for beaver that she tested for one of her cookbooks, the L.L. Bean cookbook she wrote with her husband if memory serves correct. I bet it would taste a lot like duck.

posted by ann on 2008-01-31 13:10:27
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Oh, and that would be in her recent memoir, The Tenth Muse, drrrr.... must have more coffee

posted by ann on 2008-01-31 13:11:01
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Seems like there was a New Yorker article in the recent past year or so about eating squirrells and a disease you can get from them. I'd do some googling about risks of eating wild things if I were inclined to eat them in the first place.

posted by Kate (NC) on 2008-01-31 14:05:12
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My husband's grandmother lived in Alto Adige (in the Italian Alps) until she moved here in the 50s. She told me her recipe for squirrel a few years ago--I guess in the mountains they ate a lot of squirrel, which I bet wasn't too bad since the squirrels were living on acorns and things!

Anyway, her recipe involved soaking the prepared squirrel in wine overnight and then stewing it all day.

posted by katef on 2008-01-31 15:10:06
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ok, maybe I'm going to share a little too much here,

I grew up in south Louisiana and we eat plenty of 'varmint,' if you will. Squirrel stew complete with - I don't know how to put this any more delicately - skulls and brains was a pretty common dish. However now you must be careful because squirrels are carriers of transmissible spongiform encephalopathy which leads to Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease in humans.

posted by j.j. on 2008-02-01 07:04:22
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all this talk is making me hungry... time for a squirrel burger

posted by flower222 on 2008-02-02 17:30:43
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