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Recipe Review: Pasta alla Norma from Cook's Illustrated

2009-06-18-EggplantPasta1.jpgWe knew immediately upon opening the July/August issue of Cook's Illustrated that we would have to make this dish. We're recent converts to the clan of eggplant-lovers, and the description of caramelized eggplant and silky tomato sauce sounded too good to resist!

 
 

2009-06-18-EggplantPasta5.jpgThe article says that some of the problems with this eggplant pasta dish is that it can be labor-intensive to prepare and the resulting sauce can be oily and overwhelming. Part of their solution is to microwave the eggplant cubes to dry them out before sautéing, thereby eliminating the need for salting (which they said was time-consuming) and frying (which made the sauce greasy). They also kept the other ingredients simple so the eggplant could really shine through.

We encountered our first problem with the microwaving step. The instructions assume that all your eggplant will fit on a single large plate, but looking at our bowl of salted cubes, we knew we'd have to do it in multiple batches. This meant that a simple 10-minute step turned into a 30-minute production. Not the best beginning.

Admittedly, we didn't weigh our eggplant before buying it (and our home scale is currently packed away), so it's possible that our eggplant was larger than the 1 1/2 pounds called for in the recipe. But globe eggplants are fairly uniform in size and we picked the most average one we could find, so we can't imagine we were that far off. We'll check next time we're at the store.

In any case, an abundance of eggplant was really the least of our worries. The recipes says to cut the eggplant into 1/2-inch cubes (which we did our best to follow) and then microwave them on high until the cubes are "dry to the touch and slightly shriveled." Our problem was that when they were slightly shriveled, they still felt very wet to us - but by the time they were dry to the touch, they had collapsed down to the size of dried peas. We hedged our bets with the subsequent batches and aimed for "still damp, but slightly shriveled."

2009-06-18-EggplantPasta2.jpg

Eggplant cubes before microwaving and after.

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All the eggplant after microwaving and sautéing - equal to about a cup

Even so, by the time we were done microwaving and then sautéing in olive oil, our four full plates of eggplant had shrunk down to about a cup. We kept re-reading the recipe at this point and couldn't find anything obvious that we'd done wrong, so we assumed this was intended. Still, we were starting to have doubts about our dinner.

The rest of the cooking went fairly smoothly. You use a can of crushed tomatoes to make the base of the sauce, stir the eggplant back in, and simmer for a few minutes so the flavors can mingle. The cooked pasta is tossed in the sauce and you serve the dish with a sprinkle of ricotta salata over the top.

2009-06-18-EggplantPasta4.jpgOur final verdict was that the sauce was decent, even good, but it was definitely more of a tomato sauce than an eggplant sauce. We thought the flavor of the eggplant got completely masked by the tomatoes and the texture was lost in the chewy pasta. It wasn't quite the silky eggplant pasta sauce that we'd imagined.

In retrospect, we think the biggest problem was cutting the eggplant into such small pieces. If we make this again, we'll aim for 1-inch cubes, which will hopefully hold their own a little better during the microwaving step and also when mixed into the sauce.

Has anyone else made - or is planning on making - this recipe? We'd be curious to hear other results!

• This recipe for Pasta alla Norma was published in the July/August 2009 issue of Cook's Illustrated. To subscribe to the magazine, head on over to their website!

Related: Good Question: Why Is My Roasted Eggplant Bitter?

(Images: Emma Christensen for the Kitchn)

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Recipe Review, Roundup - Magazines, pasta, pasta sauce, Cook's Illustrated, eggplant, pasta alla norma

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Comments (8)

Based on your experience, I think I would continue to salt eggplant. It's really not very time-consuming, because you can let it drain while you do other things.

I treat eggplant almost like meat. I put a very thin film of oil in a pan and heat it very high, then sear the eggplant (cubes or slices) on all sides. Then you can put the eggplant aside and incorporate it back into the dish at a later point to finish cooking. The film of oil and the searing keeps it from turning into oily mush.

posted by heather77 on June 18th 2009 at 1:06pm
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So I checked out the recipe and the associated video on the Cooks Illustrated website. Their eggplant pieces are MUCH larger than yours in the photos -- maybe about an inch cubed.

posted by AlwaysHungry on June 18th 2009 at 3:21pm
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I made this a week ago and it was delicious. My eggplant cubes were larger than 1/2 inch, but smaller than 1 inch -- maybe 3/4 inch or so. After microwaving and sauteeing they were silky, but not oily and the dish as a whole had a good tomato/eggplant balance. So don't give up on this recipe yet!

posted by bubble on June 18th 2009 at 5:24pm
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I make pasta alla norma nearly every week in the summer-here are my tips:

1. make your slices of aubergine a lot bigger-you want to have their texture there too (like hunks of meat i suppose). I slice it in half lengthways, then make half-moon slices 1cm thick (some of the bigger bits I might then quarter).

2. Don't bother salting, or microwaving-I sear them on a high heat like heather77 does, then put them on a plate and sprinkle with dried oregano.

3. I then fry some crushed garlic, add the aubergine back to the pan, turn the heat up high and put ~1tbsp white wine vinegar into the pan and let it reduce (should take 2 minutes). I then add a tin of tomatoes and let it cook gently for about the same amount of time it takes the pasta to cook (10 mins). I save some pasta water as it may need adding to the sauce if its reduced too much.

4. Ricotta is traditional, but since this is one of my quickest weekday meals I don't always play by the rules. If I don't have any basil I don't worry (it is flavoursome enough, though I never skimp on the dried oregano), and I will use most/any cheese at hand-usually parmesan but I have used cheddar in the past (!) and also feta (with isn't that dissimilar to ricotta when you think about it)-just don't tell an italian!

posted by Sian on June 19th 2009 at 2:45am
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I've made 2 different versions of Pasta a la Norma over the years -- one traditional with Ricotta salata, and the other less traditional with goat cheese.

Definitely the eggplant needs to be bigger -- mine aren't quite cubes (flatter), but closer to an inch.

posted by mschatelaine on June 19th 2009 at 10:50am
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While the traditional way is clearly ricitta I've made this dish for a long time with crumbled Feta. Works great.

Rick Stein's version of the dish has yet another way to dry the Aubergine - http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/database/pastawithauberginest_86761.shtml

posted by martinh on June 20th 2009 at 3:46pm
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I made this a couple of weeks ago. I had good luck just piling all of the eggplant onto my microwave tray -- I stopped every few minutes to rotate/toss them as they shrunk down.

My cubes were closer to 1", and my eggplant was nearly 2.5 pounds.

This was my first time using anchovies, and I think they really helped bridge the canned tomatoes and the eggplant taste. But I still felt like the actual dish itself wasn't quite balanced. It's like there was too much pasta to the sauce. The ricotta salata, though? My first experience with it, and it won't be my last. Delicious!

posted by anninva on June 22nd 2009 at 4:46pm
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I just made the C.I. recipe---I adjusted the size of the eggplant to 3/4" (based on above rec.). After 10 minutes in the microwave, the eggplant was dry and not too small. I used olives/capers/parsley and increased the peppers to 1 tsp. I thought the recipe was great and the ricotta salata really added that special touch.

posted by Dianem on June 24th 2009 at 7:05pm
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