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Recipe Review: French Country Boule from Local Breads

2008_08_01-CountryLoaf2.jpgLooks pretty good, right?

Alas, this loaf made from Local Breads by Daniel Leader fell far short of our hopes and expectations. Read on for the whole saga...

 
 

2008_08_01-CountryLoaf1.jpgThis country boule started the night before with a liquid levain, one type of preferment commonly used for sourdoughs. We used our own starter instead of making a new one following Leader's instructions. After examining his recipe and ours, they both seemed to result in the same liquid-to-flour ratio.

The trouble came the next morning when we started mixing the dough.

The recipe told us to mix just the water and the flours (a mix of whole wheat, rye, and all-purpose), and let this paste sit for 20 minutes before adding the other ingredients. This gives the water time to absorb into the flour and start activating the enzymes.

This seemed logical, but then blending the liquid levain into the now-solid mass of dough was near impossible. We tried to cut the levain into the dough, but ended up with soggy clumps instead of an even mixture. Next time, we think we'll mix the levain into the water first, mix in the flour, and then let the dough rest.

Finally we decided to just start kneading. Since we prefer to knead our bread by hand, this was a sticky prospect. We used a bench scraper and worked the dough as well as we could without adding too much flour.

2008_08_01-CountryLoaf3.jpgEven so, we ended up adding an extra cup of flour over the next fifteen minutes of kneading to keep it from sticking to the counter, our hands, and every other surface (see left).

Summer humidity could account for some of that extra flour, but not all of it. We felt like either there was something off in the recipe or our starter was actually more liquidy than Leader's, resulting in a higher ratio of liquid in our dough.

Proofing and shaping the dough wasn't a problem. As you can see, they baked off with ruddy red-brown crusts that crackled as the loaves came out of the oven. The interior had a tender crumb with holes of different sizes.

But the taste was bland and flat, most likely due to all the extra flour we needed to add. The sourdough did have a subtle but distinct presence and we felt that the combination of the three flours has the potential for a well-balanced flavor. This gives us hope that this could be a good bread if we can figure out the problem with the liquid-flour ratio.

A frustrating bread-baking experience. Has anyone else tried this recipe? Any thoughts on what we could do differently?

Related: Look! DIY Oat Flour from a Year in Bread

(Image: Emma Christensen for the Kitchn)

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Recipe Review, Food Science, bread baking, Bread Alone, Daniel Leader, Local Breads

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Comments (4)

If the recipe only gives US style volume measurements, that's probably the cause. Most professional bakers only work off of weight, which lets them adjust for humidity (or the lack of it). If I'm trying someone else's bread technique, I don't even bother if the recipe is only given in volume anymore. Too unreliable, and I won't get what the author intends.

posted by Torrilin on August 1st 2008 at 5:08am
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I think that when you try a brand new baking recipe it's best to just use the original recipe first and then, once you know what the result from the book is, try it out with your own variations (in this case, your starter).

I have this Local Breads book, but I have yet to try any recipes yet since I'm still looking for a rectangular baking stone.

Sorry to hear it was a lack lustre loaf...

posted by revolution9 on August 1st 2008 at 6:48am
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I've baked pain au levain and German Soulful Rye from Local breads and have been very pleased with the results. When working with very wet doughs (or any doughs, for that matter), I find that resting the dough and then using the French fold technique allows me to develop the gluten without much effort and no need for much extra flour at all. The technique is shown in a video here.

Revolution9, I bought a rectangular baking stone from Bed, Bath and Beyond for around 25 bucks and have been using it almost every day for the last 3 months.

posted by bubble on August 1st 2008 at 10:03am
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Thanks for the suggestions, everyone! I think I will definitely try making this bread again--this time mixing the levain with the water before adding the flour and also resting the dough more as bubble suggests.

For the record, I weighed out the ingredients on my scale, though I'm still amateur enough that I'm not sure how to adjust for humidity.

Any tips on that, Torrilin?

posted by EmmaC on August 1st 2008 at 12:25pm
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