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Last Bite: Splurge on Duck Instead of Steak

2009_03_27-Magret.jpgSee that succulent morsel, with browned and crispy skin? That's duck magret, and if offered the choice, I would probably choose it over a good steak. But when most Americans try to imagine a way to splurge just a bit on a special meal, steak is the first meat that comes to mind. A good steak is a wonderful thing, but I'm here to tell you: there are many other options for a really special dinner.

 
 

The first one that comes to my mind, as I already said, is duck breast. But not just any duck breast: duck magret. Duck magret is an extra-fatty duck breast from a duck that has been fattened for foie gras. These duck breasts are extremely tender, juicy, and yes, fatty. You'll render more fat than you'll ever need off duck magret.

The resulting meat is so delicious: reddish pink like a good steak, with an incredibly crispy skin that almost melts in your mouth. It's a serious indulgence, and probably just as expensive as an excellent steak.

So, why not? Next time you're looking for an extra-special meal, or trying to impress someone with a romantic dinner for two, why not try a duck breast instead? Poultry isn't just about chicken and the Thanksgiving turkey; if you eat meat then duck is a really wonderful indulgence, once in a while.

Duck magret is a little hard to find (unless you live in France) but look at your specialty butcher, and at Whole Foods. You can also find it at online purveyors like D'Artagnan:

Duck Breast and Magret at D'Artagnan

The duck pictured above is from this cooking class I took in France.

If you cook duck, what is your favorite way to make it?

Related: Good Question: What To Do With Duck Fat?

(Image: Faith Durand)

Tags

Inspiration, Ingredients - Meat, duck, poultry, duck magret

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Comments (10)

I've never cooked duck and keep thinking I should give it a go.

posted by Noadi on March 25th 2009 at 7:22pm
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Sounds yummy, but I'm not sure I can justify supporting the cruel forced feeding they use to produce foie gras.

posted by joyosity on March 25th 2009 at 8:20pm
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I love duck, but I've never had much success cooking it. This sounds so tempting - I'd love to try it with a great recipe.

posted by fib on March 25th 2009 at 9:23pm
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If it really is an extra-fatty duck breast from a duck that has been fattened for foie gras, then I doubt Whole Foods carries it. They don't sell foie gras because the force feeding required is mean to the ducks.

http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/products/unacceptable-ingredients.php

posted by tinka777 on March 25th 2009 at 10:27pm
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Harold of Top Chef/Perilla fame did an amazing spicy duck meatball that he now serves at the restaurant with mint cavatelli. I've made the recipe below before with excellent results for the meatball, but way too much broth. The meatballs are the star of the show and definitely can stand alone, which is usually how I make them now.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25588054/wid/1/

posted by mouserkt on March 26th 2009 at 10:10am
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Gosh, I wish people would take the time to learn more about foie gras production. It's not any crueler than any other farming practice when done by reputable farmers. There's a lot of negative propaganda put out there by the animal welfare fanatics and it's not accurate.

Ducks and foie gras are also readily available if you live in Quebec.

posted by angorian on March 26th 2009 at 11:04am
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The last question from this interview has a quick summary of some of the useful information that is generally ignored by animal rights activists.

http://www.cheftalk.com/cooking_articles/Foie_Gras/92-Interview_with_Michael_Ginor_Author_of_Foie_Gras:_A_Passion.html

CT: What about animal rights? Foie gras has certainly seen its fair share of controversy.

MG: The foie gras process does indeed appear cruel to the animal. But ducks are not humans and our bodies are not constructed in the same way to do the same things. No one has ever proven that producing foie gras is stressful to the animals. For instance, it has been scientifically shown that the duck's stress levels are lower during force feeding than when the animal is walking around on its own. Also, at feeding time, the ducks go to the humans, which is not a normal behavior. To demonstrate the healthiness of the ducks, if the feeding is stopped, the duck's liver will return to the normal size with no harm done to the animal. Also, it should be noted that the duck's esophagus is calcified and hard, unlike a human esophagus. As a result, the feeding tube does no damage to the duck. Through the ages, foie gras has been produced and eaten by Jews who observed the strict kosher laws. If an animal is to be certified kosher, it must pass a rigorous inspection after slaughter. Anything besides a perfectly healthy duck would be not certified as kosher.

posted by angorian on March 26th 2009 at 11:15am
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I LOVE duck but I rarely cook it. I do think of it for special occasions and I have had great success with Nigella's recipe for duck magret in Nigella Bites. A simple, succelent meal.

posted by izzy's mama on March 26th 2009 at 12:31pm
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I love, love, love duck! I agree, I'd choose it over a steak any day. and a good magret.... oh, this made me hungry.

I've only cooked duck once myself, but had no problem, (for a romantic dinner for two, no less). I ended up using peking duck. the butcher recommended it for a first timer, as he felt it was easier to cook, plus they were more reasonably sized, (and I was on a budget). the breasts were served with a creme fraiche sauce and roasted grapes.

oh, and if anyone makes magret, be sure to fry some potatoes in the duck fat. it's heaven.

posted by foodefafa on March 26th 2009 at 1:26pm
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ok, i've never had magret, and am going to a great italian restaurant that has such a thing on the menu, and this thread gets me thinking about trying it. People say it is fatty - how fatty are we talking? more fatty than a good rib-eye, for example? thanks!

posted by TDS7 on March 27th 2009 at 8:53am
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