apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time


What's the Deal with Truffles?

2009-05-08-Truffles.jpgThey're a kind of dense fungus that grows underground. They can only be found by specially trained dogs and pigs. They look like...well, not something you'd necessarily think of eating. And they're wildly expensive. Do you think truffles are really worth all the hype?

 
 

2009-05-08-Truffles2.jpgTruffles have always been highly valued for their heady aroma and culinary value, but they weren't always so rare. Global demand, over-foraging, and environmental factors have created a scarcity that has driven their price through the roof and given truffles a reputation of high class luxury.

There are two main kinds of truffles that get all the attention: black truffles and white ones. Black truffles (melanosporum) grow in many places throughout Europe, most famously in the Périgord region in France. There has been some success farming black truffles, but it hasn't yet become a dependable or widespread practice. Peak harvesting is from September to March.

White truffles (magnatum Pico) tend to be more rare and therefore more expensive. They are nearly exclusive to Northern Italy and can only be found in the wild from October to December.

Black truffles have an earthy, pungent flavor and aroma that can be enhanced by gentle cooking. The white variety is said to have much stronger and more complex flavors and aromas, and they're usually served raw so as to experience all of them.

Here in the United States, home cooks don't often get their hands on real, whole truffles! However, we can get a taste of them through infused oils, butters, pastes, and powders. These products are fantastic in salad dressings, pasta and risotto, and egg dishes.

What experiences have you had with truffles or truffle products?

Related: Adopt a Truffle Tree: Gascony, France

(Images: Flickr members ulterior epicure and foodistablog licensed under Creative Commons)

Comments (16)

I love finishing dishes with some truffle oil, a small bottle is really inexpensive and a very little bit goes a long way. Much easier then paying the high prices of actual truffles, not to mention the oil will last much longer in the pantry then a whole truffle.

posted by matt manfredini on May 8th 2009 at 8:40am
view matt manfredini's profile

Don't forget Oregon truffles! Truffles are foraged domestically in the Pacific Northwest and a few other spots around the country.

posted by GreenCayennes on May 8th 2009 at 8:47am
view GreenCayennes's profile

I didn't know much about truffles until this year when I had the good fortune of having a student in my class who actually operates a fairly large truffle importing business. Due to this, I probably know more about truffles now than your average joe. My student is hosting a uni (urchin) party tonight that I'm attending, and I should be able to sample some of his truffles there. He specializes in exotics beyond black and white and intends on starting a truffiere (sp?) in the near future. He imports from Italy and has been operating his business successfully for two years now. Not bad, considering he's only 16 years old!

If you're interested in checking out his company or obtaining some truffles, here's his site:
http://tartufiunlimited.com/

posted by cranefinn on May 8th 2009 at 9:07am
view cranefinn's profile

I love truffle salt! One of my favorite appetizers is to smear butter on radishes and then dip them in truffle salt. A little goes a long way, so it's not that expensive either.

posted by charise on May 8th 2009 at 10:09am
view charise's profile

I've never cooked with actual truffles, but enjoy them tremendously. I recently had truffle saffron risotto in Monaco and i have to say it was the best stuff ever!

posted by FlaNboyant Eats on May 8th 2009 at 10:55am
view FlaNboyant Eats's profile

i used to make a dish with white truffle oil flavoring mashed potatoes, served with seared scallops, pancetta and fried crispy things, i think it was parsley. i lost the recipe and haven't had it in years. got to start looking around for it.

posted by carolynapplebee on May 8th 2009 at 11:21am
view carolynapplebee's profile

ive had cheese laced with black truffle. very earthy.. very strong.. but good!

posted by deeboyayay on May 8th 2009 at 11:58am
view deeboyayay's profile

The chef at Viceroy Palm Springs makes a killer mac and cheese with real black truffle shavings. We had it this weekend...it's totally unreal good, and we like to call "mac and cheese for adults". Seriously, we pass up fillet to eat this. It's always soooo good.

posted by missmarie on May 8th 2009 at 12:47pm
view missmarie's profile

I believe I read somewhere that truffle oil does not actually contain any truffles because the quality would vary too much. It's made with a synthetic flavoring agent.

I'll never forget the white truffle risotto that I had in Milan. 60 euros for an appetizer portion.

posted by Kathryn on May 8th 2009 at 12:54pm
view Kathryn's profile

i bought a small black truffle from oregon to shave over a soup once, and found it to be really good - it probably didn't have the intensity of flavor of the ones you'd import from italy, but it was still quite pungent and added a nice earthiness to the dish. it wasn't extraordinarily expensive, either.

posted by bokeh on May 8th 2009 at 1:06pm
view bokeh's profile

Best truffle dish ever - gnocchi with cream and truffles. Oh no let me take that back, fois gras with blackened truffle and sage from Julian Serano at the Belagio in Vegas - he doesn't make it any more, so sad...

I've tried cooking with truffles once myself - Oregon truffles over gnocchi and gorgonzola. Do so much, I think I'll stick to having them when I dine out - always a treat.

posted by fmktjod on May 8th 2009 at 5:20pm
view fmktjod's profile

Truffle oil or butter over eggs (soft scrambled or over easy, amazing!). Truffle salt on popcorn with european melted butter, ridiculous. fresh truffles over fresh pasta or in risotto, awesome! So simple but always the best way to enjoy the most pungent and delicious fungus.

posted by rmarcus on May 8th 2009 at 11:22pm
view rmarcus's profile

Prior to the world wars of the 20th century, truffles used to be more widely available because they *were* cultivated, rather than just sought wild. But 2 wars destroyed both the land and the people involved, disrupting the planting cycle and a fairly new cultivation technique.

posted by angorian on May 9th 2009 at 8:54am
view angorian's profile

Truffle salt on buttered toast!

posted by Amymj on May 10th 2009 at 11:36am
view Amymj's profile

I went to a truffle fair in Acqua Lagne and bought a white one about the size of the first joint of my little finger for 20 Euros. 1/2 of it was shaved over fresh pasta tossed in butter the night I bought it and finished the next day over organic scrambled eggs bought from a neighbouring small-holding. It was sensory overload - the flavour is relatively mild, but the aroma is so heavy you experience the truffle rather than taste it. Marvellous.

(I also bought a walnut-sized black truffle for 12 euros, but tragically it was ruined when overlooked during celebrations relating to a day spent at a truffle fair and left by a raging fire overnight. I still kick myself when I think of that)

posted by Lewyintheuk on May 11th 2009 at 8:36am
view Lewyintheuk's profile

One of the shops in Pikes Place market has has whole truffles the last two times I was there. Wasn't brave enough to ask how much though as I would have no idea where to begin with how to store one!

posted by midnightskyfibers on May 21st 2009 at 5:51pm
view midnightskyfibers's profile