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Canned Pumpkin: What Is It Really Made Of?

2008_11_10-pumpkinfilling.jpgA lot of professional and home chefs swear by canned pumpkin for its convenience and consistent flavor and texture. But we recently learned something rather surprising about this pantry item...

 
 

It turns out that some canned pumpkin is actually – gasp! – squash. Some manufacturers make "pumpkin" puree from one or more kinds of winter squashes such as butternut, Hubbard, and Boston Marrow, which can be less stringy and richer in sweetness and color.

But before we start crying fraud, it is interesting to note the rather fuzzy distinction between pumpkins and squashes. There are three varieties of winter squashes: Cucurbita pepo, Cucurbita maxima, and Curcubita moschata. C. pepo includes the gourds we traditionally think of as pumpkins, such as the kind used for jack-o'-lanterns. Hubbard and Boston Marrow squashes fall into the C. maxima category, while C. moschata includes butternut squashes as well as the Dickinson pumpkins used by Libby's, the producer of most of the canned pumpkin in North America.

What do you think? Does it matter whether canned pumpkin is "pumpkin" or another type of squash? Or if you skip the cans altogether and make your pumpkin puree from scratch, what variety of gourd do you use?

Related:
How To: Make Pumpkin Puree
Midwest Food Roundup: The Great Pumpkin (Debate)

(Image: Flickr member liebep licensed under Creative Commons)

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Ingredients - Pantry, Fruits and Vegetables, Baking Products, Dessert Products, canned pumpkin, pumpkin pie filling, pumpkin puree

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Comments (35)

it doesn't really bother me that it isn't all 'actual' pumpkin, although i think the label should reflect that.
what i want to know is how do i get around using canned pumpkin? i have two 'pumpkin pie pumpkins' that i would love to turn into pie, but don't know how to go about it. do i cook it like a squash and then go from there?

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posted by cassiopia on November 10th 2008 at 5:52am
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Does it matter whether canned pumpkin is "pumpkin" or another type of squash?

Not to me. As long as it isn't chockfull of food colorings, flavor boosters, and preservatives, I'm not too fussed. But, then again, I'm not a terribly fussy gal -- and I'm really only willing to roast a pumpkin once every year or two.

posted by katiebug on November 10th 2008 at 5:53am
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As long as a pumpkin pie tastes delicious, I don't care if it's pumpkin or squash.
Put enough whipped cream on anything and I'll eat it!

posted by revolution9 on November 10th 2008 at 6:14am
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I'm ok with it the way it is. At least it doesn't have artificial flavorings.

Also, I've used "real" pumpkins (those cute little ones that are intended for cooking, not carving) in two recipes recently and was super disappointed. They had no positive flavor and a little icky flavor. Both recipes are better with squash.

posted by brittanykate on November 10th 2008 at 6:48am
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Doesn't matter to me. A pumpkin pie by any other name would taste as sweet.

posted by lacrema on November 10th 2008 at 7:18am
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Meh.

posted by protogarrett on November 10th 2008 at 7:20am
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I don't care what kind of winter squash it is, but I just don't agree that the flavour of canned pumpkin is the same as fresh/frozen. So I process my own pumpkins.

Cassiopia, cut them in half, remove seeds and strings, then roast them in the oven. When they're fork tender, remove, peel and puree in a food processor, food mill or blender (with water added). I then drain them in a colander and drink the juice too. Here's a post I made on the topic of processing pumpkin (mods please delete this response if the link is not appropriate):

http://seidhr.blogspot.com/2008/10/pumpkin-puree-juice-seeds-and-butter.html

posted by seidhr on November 10th 2008 at 7:25am
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Given that "pumpkin" in most of the world is synonymous with squash, I'm not too upset. Often it's other squashes that are sweeter anyway. For (sweet American-style) pie and other baked goods, canned is best. For soups and savory dishes, I prefer fresh. And that's just because of texture.

Ultimately, I agree with the other posters that the most important part is the lack of artificial additions!

posted by Shana Lee on November 10th 2008 at 8:07am
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Although it wouldn't keep me from using canned pumpkin if I was pressed for time, I still prefer to make my own puree. Call me a purest but I started using my own puree a few years ago and I prefer the taste over the canned stuff. I also like making my own puree because I get to roast the left over seeds and coat them in cinnamon, sugar and a little cayenne pepper - can't get that extra bonus using the canned pumpkin!! :)

posted by sneakyskillet on November 10th 2008 at 8:48am
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I usually roast my own - because it's easy, so why buy the canned stuff? Get a small pumpkin ("sugar" or "pie" pumpkin), and either cut it in half and scoop out seeds and strings and bake at 375-400 until tender (45 minutes?), let cool, and scoop out of the skin. Let it drain overnight or longer. I don't even run it through the food processor (because I don't have one) before using it - just mix it with whatever spices I need for whatever I'm making with it.

posted by kat98 on November 10th 2008 at 8:48am
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Oh man you scared me with the "what's REALLY in that can?" lead off! As long as it's all nice, orange squash of one sort or another...

posted by cmcinnyc on November 10th 2008 at 8:51am
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seidhr-

thanks so much for the instructions! i see a pumpkin pie in my future...

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posted by cassiopia on November 10th 2008 at 9:34am
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I don't use canned, but, the composition of it doesn't bother me. My family has used butternut squash for decades. It's so much easier to deal with than pumpkins, it's less stringy, and nobody can tell the difference.

Peel the butternut squash, take out the little bit of seeds, chop it into chunks, boil it/steam it, and mash.

posted by cara_mia on November 10th 2008 at 9:38am
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Cassiopia, check out Faith's How To: Make Pumpkin Puree.

posted by Emily Ho on November 10th 2008 at 9:49am
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I've always had issues getting my pumpkin or squash dry enough to make into pie with the same ratios as regular pumpkin pie. I tried to do it on the stove, cooking chunks and innards leftover from carving 4 pumpkins until it was soft, the strings were broken down, and the pulp dry/condensed enough. Took forever and had to keep cooking a second day since it still wasn't smooth enough. So much easier and quicker to buy the canned.

posted by Godwinkr on November 10th 2008 at 10:27am
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Interesting to know! Maybe that's why canned tastes so much better than fresh. My one attempt to make PP filling from scratch was pretty mediocre.

posted by chez shoes on November 10th 2008 at 10:28am
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As long as it tastes like what I think of as pumpkin (i.e. DELICIOUS), it's fine with me.

posted by confusednazgul on November 10th 2008 at 10:37am
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I agree with Shana Lee and other posters; for my purposes, squash and pumpkin are interchangeable. Pumpkin goes in my butternut squash soup if I want, and squash goes in pumpkin-chocolate chip bread for the same. Not *all* squash, and not *all* pumpkins, mind you; there are differences and a spaghetti squash will not go into a pumpkin pie, even if I were a pumpkin pie eater! (Gasp! It's true.)

I make my own pumpkin puree by halving, scooping out the seeds/guts, and roasting (cut side up) at 400 for ~30 min. I let cool, remove skin, and smash up/blend. Transfer to storage containers, label, throw it in the freezer. (Which reminds me that I've got some pumpkins to transform and some puree to use...)

posted by SproutedKitchen on November 10th 2008 at 11:49am
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in australia butternut squash is known as butternut pumpkin. i didn't even know they were called squash until i starting using recipes off the internet.

posted by alicee on November 10th 2008 at 2:41pm
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I think the canned is the most consistent. Making your own puts you at the mercy of what's in the market. I like roasted pumpkin, but for pie, the canned is far smoother. And Libby's is superior to the "organic" sold at TJ's.

posted by Palmetto on November 10th 2008 at 3:49pm
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Over here, we call all of those things pumpkin. You'll never hear a New Zealand say "butternut squash". We call them "butternut pumpkins". So there would be no uproar on canned pumpkin ingredients over here. Not that I have ever seen pumpkin in a can in New Zealand. The can could cost more than the pumpkin!

posted by buda on November 10th 2008 at 4:52pm
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I'm not so concerned about it not being pumpkin, more concerned about the cans being lined with BPA. If you're making fresh puree, using a hand blender to puree it helps reduce the stringiness.

posted by foodietots on November 10th 2008 at 7:22pm
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Cheese Pumpkins are the way to go.

posted by All of a Doodah on November 11th 2008 at 4:13am
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I have almost always (20 years) cooked my own. I use steamed organic pie pumpkin or other orange winter squash based on what looks best at the time. On a couple of occasions I have tried the canned and been disappointed.

I have been considering trying roasting instead of steaming. Has anyone tried both methods? What are your thoughts?

posted by Niamh on November 11th 2008 at 8:59am
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Beware... some of the 'better' pumpkin pie filling brands that are easily found at grocery stores do have preservatives in them.. such as dipotassium phosphate. My husband is horribly allergic, (gets nasty bumps all over his hands within minutes) so we've had to cut this out of our pantry which can be hard to do. It is in so much that uses dairy products which are canned or otherwise shelf stable. Supposedly it keeps milkfats separating from the milk. ie good old evaporated milk... we can only buy the skim versions, because the others have the preservative.
FYI.

posted by magdelane on November 11th 2008 at 2:48pm
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@magdelane
Yeah, and I should mention that there is a huge difference between products such as Lobby's 100% Pure Pumpkin and others that call themselves 'pie fillings'... they already have spices sugar, evaporated milk and the ensuing preservatives.

posted by magdelane on November 11th 2008 at 2:53pm
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I made pumpkin pie bars this weekend using delicata squash. Everyone at home knows they're squash bars but they still think they taste like pumpkin bars.

posted by ah-ha on November 12th 2008 at 4:43am
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I'm firmly in the group that doesn't care a bit what is in the can as long as it isn't icky preservatives etc.
Growing up in the south one could never be sure the orange colored pie on the table was pumpkin or sweet potato and frankly I had a hard time telling the difference myself until adulthood. As revolution9 said: enough whipped cream and pie is pie.

posted by new idea on November 13th 2008 at 8:59am
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Have you heard about the scandal involved with the olive oil industry? Turns out that a lot of the olive oil you've been buying from Italy is actually grapeseed oil.

posted by kmswann on November 13th 2008 at 10:38am
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Like most others, as long as it doesn't have crazy additives, I don't care what is in the can, be it pumpkin, squash or gourd. Libby's is fantastic and SUCH a time-saver. Plus, I add so much pumpkin pie spices that it wouldn't really matter what the filling was made from.

I was given a "pumpkin pie" pumpkin this year, but it's still sitting on a table as decoration. I don't trust myself to make a good puree and it's too cute to hack apart.

posted by first5times on November 13th 2008 at 2:52pm
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I read about this years ago, so it's no big surprise to me, but I do think that the label should reflect the contents.

I prefer using the canned version because it is a huge time saver. One year I decided to make it from scratch. It was a lot of work, and once it was finished, I honestly couldn't tell the difference between that or the pie made with the canned pumpkin.

posted by suzy8track on November 13th 2008 at 3:40pm
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I can see why they don't say what's actually in it. It would only make people fussy. Besides, since pumpkin is a squash, there shouldn't be allergy concerns.

I'm a little bothered by the dishonesty, but people have done worse things.

posted by idiotdogbrain on November 14th 2008 at 2:54am
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Tried making a pumpkin pie from scratch - twice - years ago. Totally not worth the effort. Buy the canned pumpkin and save yourself tons of work. Pumpkin tastes like crap anyhow until you spice it up and mix it with a ton of sugar and fat! It's one of those foods that was made to be canned.

posted by sunspot42 on November 14th 2008 at 3:21am
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If it is not pumpkin, labels should list true ingredients. Our "cinnamon" is really cassia. While this has been forgiven for years, is ignorance a good thing, ever? Garden plants, heirloom seeds, cosmetics, medicines, high-fructose-corn syrup-filled drinks, gasoline (what if it weren't really gasoline? would that matter?)--what's really in there is about stewardship, truth in advertising, choice and environmental knowledge. If it's not pumpkin, I'll still eat it. But I'm not happy to learn of misleading labels.

posted by avianmission on November 16th 2008 at 6:24pm
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The distinction between pumpkin and squash is pretty fuzzy. The advertisers aren't necessarily being dishonest or even misleading, since pumpkin is a word that can be used to refer to a number of different gourds. In some languages, there's only one word and it encompasses both what we in America know as pumpkin and squash. I lived in Bulgaria for three years. No canned pumpkin in the grocery stores there! They also didn't have what we typically think of as a "pumpkin", i.e., round and orange. They had round white ones and orange ones that were shaped more like a butternut squash. I quickly found out that what was inside tasted pretty much the same once you cooked it! If you're going to DIY (super easy rainy saturday project while you're puttering around the house doing other things, btw; cut it up and simmer it on low in a stock pot, stir every 15 minutes or so to keep it from sticking, start mashing it with a potato masher when it softens, cook it until there's hardly any water left in it, give it a quick spin through the blender at the end just to even out the consistency, measure it out into quart ziploc bags containing however much pumpkin your pie recipe calls for - mine is 1.5 cups - lay the bags flat in the freezer, and pull one out when you want to bake), butternut squash actually gives you more flesh and less seeds and hollow space than a jack-o-lantern type pumpkin does.

Pumpkin you cook yourself will usually still have more water in it than commercially canned pumpkin. I usually add an extra egg to my pie recipe when using home-prepared pumpkin so that it will "set" as firmly as we're used to with commercial pumpkin.

posted by mfarling on January 4th 2009 at 8:42pm
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