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How to Open a Durian Fruit

2007_02_28-Durian.jpgOver the weekend, I purchased a durian, which is a tropical fruit that originates in Southeast Asia, in Chinatown in San Francisco with my friend Prisna. Durians have received mixed reviews across the board. They are considered either a delicacy or a nuisance; some say their scent is fragrant, while others have a far different opinion...

 
 

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The durian fruit.

Richard Sterling, as quoted in The Travelling Curmudgeon, says:

“… its odor is best described as pig-shit, turpentine and onions, garnished with a gym sock. It can be smelled from yards away. Despite its great local popularity, the raw fruit is forbidden from some establishments such as hotels, subways and airports, including public transportation in Southeast Asia.” (Source: Wikipedia)

Durians are about the size of a soccer ball, quite heavy, and covered with spikes. The outer flesh is thick and tough, and can be difficult to open if you don’t know how. Inside are pockets of flesh with the consistency of custard, with a hard stone in the center of each pocket.

We took the fruit home on the BART – unlike in Southeast Asia, BART has no “NO DURIAN” signs, and no one seemed to notice. Prisna, who grew up in Singapore and has experience in opening durians, demonstrated for me while I took photographs.

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Lay paper on the floor (this can get messy) and then with a large, sharp knife, make a deep score in the outer hull, about 8 to 10 inches long.

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Dig your fingers in the incision and start prying the hull apart.

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Keep pulling and pushing.

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After some effort, you will have two halves.

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Take the knife and score a deep cut in the fibrous “rib” in the center of each half.

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Pull the halved section apart into two sections.

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See the “pod” coming out of the husk? That’s the edible part. It’s a bit soft, and yellowish. In my experience, it did not have much of an unpleasant scent; it smelled sweet, almost like custard. The taste was sweet, creamy, and fruity. However, every so often, for a millisecond or so, we would get a whiff of something tart and slightly foul that would disappear.

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Collected durian “pods.”

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Durian “pods” and bowls of sticky rice with coconut milk.

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Durian and sticky rice with coconut milk. A very simple, delicious dessert.

This is by Kathryn, who is up for one of our new writer positions. Welcome Kathryn!

(All images by Kathryn Hill.)

Tags

Ingredients - Fruit, Tips & Techniques, Fruits and Vegetables, Local - West Coast, How To, Kathryn, durian

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Comments (30)

That was like watching someone wrestle and invert a porcupine! Thanks for the how-to

Durian definitely isn't for everybody. Every time I've had it, that foul taste and odor would predominate, and even if it hadn't, just a slight foul taste and odor would turn me off. I'm glad I've gotten to try it, but I think I'll reserve my sweet coconut rice for my standard mango relish. =)

posted by OneWallKitchen on February 28th 2008 at 5:44am
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Very honourable.

I've tried it once and had to admit that it tasted much better than it smelled. But the texture didn't agree with me too much.

posted by practicallydone on February 28th 2008 at 6:02am
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The hedgehog fruit! Wow, I am curious now!

posted by Cakespy on February 28th 2008 at 6:08am
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Nice write up! Very interesting.

posted by Pixie on February 28th 2008 at 6:09am
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holy guacamole!

posted by kdkaboom on February 28th 2008 at 6:18am
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DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!

I've eaten everything from guinea pig (cui) to bulls balls, durian haunts me!

It's one of those edible aroma things. You can actually taste the smell if that makes any sense.

posted by art on February 28th 2008 at 6:49am
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Ah, durian! I love the smell because I love the taste! I have not felt so strongly towards any other fruits. The only rival is cashew fruit. It brings back memories. Out here in the boonies we don't have many fresh fruits from Asia.

Now marang is another story. Can't stand that smell, or the taste.

posted by samaritan on February 28th 2008 at 7:10am
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I am all for demystifying food that's beyond standard American fare. With pictures! I've seen these in the market, but I've always been too chicken to bust into one myself. Thanks Kathryn! I hope you stick around.

posted by squidlette on February 28th 2008 at 7:22am
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@art, amen--that makes perfect sense, since so much of taste is dependent on smell. I rely heavily on my sense of smell--like when it keeps me from eating rotten food.

@squid--amen to that, too! Love it or hate it, it's nice to see something that many haven't. Hooray for broadening our horizons!

posted by OneWallKitchen on February 28th 2008 at 7:28am
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Good writeup and nice how-to pics - I must say I agree with the Curmudgeon quoted up front. I think durians are covered in spikes for a good reason - to discourage the unwary. We tried one in HI and I couldn't get the taste out of my mouth for an hour - just awful. But some love it - funny how a big spiky soccer ball of funk can be so polarizing.

posted by berkeleydaisy on February 28th 2008 at 7:56am
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I grew up eating durians, but I still can't get over the smell. I usually cover my nose -- it's worth it as I love the fruit.

posted by bipolarbear on February 28th 2008 at 8:14am
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Kathryn's not-so-stinky durian may be due to it being previously frozen for transport or it being one of the newer strains which is grown for less odor. The latter is hotly debated by durian fans who claim that the less stinky varieties don't taste as good. Durian's flavor can vary wildly from a pungent bite to a smooth custard flavor.

That said, it's definitely a love/hate fruit. Here are some things that we do whenever we eat durian:

1. Wash your fingers/face with water from the husk. I have no idea why this works, but it does. You can also rinse your mouth out with husk water to de-stink your breath.

2. If you don't want to use husk water, rinse your mouth out with salt water.

3. Chinese consider durian's qi to be "hot". You can imagine this when you eat it b/c it leaves a "hot" sensation in your mouth. It's not spicy or temperature hot, but there is a warm sensation in your mouth (that's what we experience anyway). To neutralize the durian, drink salt water after eating it.

For those of you who would like to experience a small bit of durian with less mess, you can also try the durian gelato at Lee's Sandwiches (www.leessandwiches.com) -- it's very authentic in flavor.

posted by ami on February 28th 2008 at 8:23am
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To clarify my previous statement #1: pour water into the husk and wash your fingers/face with that water in order to get rid of the durian smell.

posted by ami on February 28th 2008 at 8:25am
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While in Thailand on our honeymoon, my husband and I tried a small bit of durian at an open market. It was sort of sweet and creamy, but we were disappointed that there was no horrendous smell. With all the warnings, the lack of odor was a big let-down.

posted by Sasha on February 28th 2008 at 8:40am
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i have my durian slightly frozen. the custard consistency then becomes more like an ice cream and the coldness helps keep the smell factor lower.

posted by eec007 on February 28th 2008 at 9:12am
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DURIAN!
Bleaughhh! I bought some in Bangkok and could not stand the smell or the taste. I made the mistake of throwing it out in the trash can in my guest room. When I came back a few hours later, the whole place smelled completely rotten, and I couldn't stand to be in the room for hours, even after we removed the offending trash can from the room! Ugh! Don't be fooled into eating one! It's completely wretched.

posted by jls6fq on February 28th 2008 at 9:13am
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ami - I've never had durian gelato and am intrigued. I love gelato. I've had durian cookies -- still stinky!

posted by bipolarbear on February 28th 2008 at 9:20am
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Wow, it's so interesting reading so many polarized comments!!

posted by Kathryn Hill on February 28th 2008 at 9:42am
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bipolarbear, the durian gelato is still a little stinky (which intensifies on your breath since your mouth is warmer), but it's very mild compared to fresh durian. I was very impressed that you still get the hot qi sensation when you eat it!

posted by ami on February 28th 2008 at 10:52am
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I've never encountered durian in the flesh, but that was a great write-up/tutorial. Pictures 7 and 8 are particularly gruesome.

posted by vera in dc on February 28th 2008 at 12:07pm
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My husband still describes his experience with Durian ice cream as "The Worst Thing That Has Ever Happened" to him.
http://www.pollyann.com
He's led a pretty good life. ;)

posted by Eviedee on February 28th 2008 at 2:30pm
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nice. the art of opeing durian
i grew up eating durians. my parents used to have a durian's orchard along with a few other exotic fruits.
we use machete or "parang" to crack it open.
sadly, oil palm plantation is just too much for the orchard. :(

posted by plesit on February 28th 2008 at 2:34pm
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The smell of fresh durian is terrible. The taste is okay but the consistency reminds me of raw bread dough.

posted by requis on February 28th 2008 at 2:40pm
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As for all the "polarized comments" i imagine its a result of what you grow up with and more importantly, what you've trained your palate for. Think of the first time you had a really truly STINKY cheese. You may love it now, but try getting someone that's only had kraft singles to put a bite of limburger in his mouth!

posted by mh330 on February 28th 2008 at 3:26pm
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My grandma would boil the seeds and they taste like yams!

posted by Raena on March 1st 2008 at 4:57pm
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Hmm.. that's a dangerous way of opening a durian! A better way would be to open it from the bottom of the fruit. Durian fruits has many "sections" which stores the "pod". Making a small opening according to the line of the sections and then pull it apart according to the line of the sections. But it still need a cosiderable amount of skills and strength.

It is named as the King of fruit in Malaysia. And we have a huge variety of durians with different smell, taste, texture, shape and sizes. We love it here. Personally, the variety here taste better than those from Thailand.

posted by Hazel9288 on March 1st 2008 at 6:07pm
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wow such divided opinions! that's kinda funny.

Raena: my mom boiled the durian seeds too!

It is amazing how drinking husk water gets rid that weird aftertaste in the mouth. As many has mentioned drinking salt water is a must to prevent sore throat after consuming durians.

My brother also eats durian frozen. Open the fruit, take the "meat" out, put it in a plastic container and stick it in the freezer.

Also to echo Hazel's comment, durians from different regions of different countries do taste different. Thai's durian are more supple and less fragrant IMO and Malaysia's smaller sized durians are more mushy but the smell is definitely stronger.

Mmm.... I miss durian.

posted by aspw on March 1st 2008 at 7:01pm
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Thanks for the info on this exotic fruit. Initerestingly enough, Durian looks nearly identical to "Jackfruit", which I grew up eating in Costa Rica. I purchased the durian assuming it was a jackfruit, when I opened the fruit it had a combination of a strong fruity but also unfamiliar scent. After further examination I soon realized it wasn't a jackfruit, but I was also worried this new and foreign fruit was spoiled and being ignorant about the fruit (durian) I threw it out.

Next time, I will do an online search and research about the fruit/food before I dispose of anything again.And it was so expensive too!!! I threw out $10 in the trash.
How can I distinguish a jackfruit from a "durian"??? does anyone know??

posted by klyncher on March 2nd 2008 at 9:15am
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klyncher: the spikes on the jackfruit is flatter and smoother, doesn't hurt when you run your palm over it. Durian's spikes, on the other hand, hurts and will draw blood if you're not careful.

The texture of the fruits are also different, durians are more mushy, and jackfruits are more solid and fibrous(?). Though I'm not sure fibrous is the right word, i can't think of another word now to describe it.

posted by aspw on March 3rd 2008 at 4:04am
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hi :)

oooh durian is my favourite fruit!

like what ami said, it is VERY important to wash out your mouth and hands from the water that you run into the husk.

i am from Malaysia (living in Melbourne, Australia) now and we never drank salt water to balance out the "heat" of the durian. we actually drank tepid water from the husk! you pour in cooled boiled water into the husk, leave for 2 minutes and then drink it.

too much durian will cause a sore throat if you do not balance it out either by the water from the husk OR mangosteens!

Sasha, Thai durians aren't as fragrant as Malaysian grown ones. it also tastes different. the durians in the photos above actually look like Thai durians... whiter flesh... the durians in Malaysia are deeper yellow and very very very fragrant.

i love durian gelato, durian ice cream and roti durian (instead of roti chanai, "roti" being "bread"...)

oh yeah... there is a very very important step that was missed out in the above steps to opening a durian. you don't just "make a deep score" anywhere in the hull. you need to find a natural line in the thorns... they naturally show you where the incision needs to be by actually pointing inward!

jackfruit does not have as strong a fragrance, but it is yellow as well. it does not have a mushy flesh or thorns... the skin of the fruit looks like a thin layer of brownish yellowish mud over some honeycomb. nothing to opening a jackfruit. jackfruit is great with curries or fresh.

but the best is CHEMPEDAK! mmmmmmmmmmmmmm it's more frgrant than jackfruit, less fragrant than durian, soft flesh and you can roast the seeds and deepfry the fruit. ooooh!!!!

posted by drey on December 14th 2008 at 8:12pm
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