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Good Question: What Kind of Cookie Is This?

2009_05_22-Cookie01.jpgHere's an interesting case of identify-the-cookie from Marcus in Oslo. Can you help him?

I'm looking for your help identifying a cookie made of almonds (I think). It is a little bit hard on the outside and soft/chewy on the inside. The cookie is dusted with sugar and it is delicious and the perfect companion to your espresso. I live in Oslo, Norway but I can't imagine that it is a local thing. The sign in front of the cookie in the cafe said Brutti ma buoni, which means something like ugly but tasty.

 
 

2009_05_22-Cookie02.jpgHe continues:

The nice thing about it is the soft chewy center and the sugar dusted and a little harder outside. I've seen it in two other Italian coffe shops here in Oslo. But they won't tell me anything about them. When I search the net, the result is a lot of cookies but none looking like this.

OK, cookie sleuths and Italian bakers: any ideas? Do you have a recipe for Marcus? We do want to point out this meringue-based recipe from Mario Batali:

Ugly But Good Cookies: Brutti ma Buoni

It looks like these cookies are meringue-based, so they can be shaped very differently — flattened, peaked, squished, or mounded up.

Related: Good Question: How Can I Make Snickerdoodle Balls?

(Image: Marcus via email)

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Good Questions, Restaurant Reproductions, Sweets, baking, cookie

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Comments (21)

There is a nice recipe in Carol Fields' The Italian Baker.

posted by lindyleech on May 26th 2009 at 10:26am
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This one may look a little more like yours (which look a little browner than an all-almond version would) --

It has some ground hazelnuts

http://www.foodtv.ca/recipes/recipedetails.aspx?dishid=6609

posted by mschatelaine on May 26th 2009 at 10:43am
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Call me crazy, but maybe one of the 2500 google search results for "Brutti ma buoni" recipe could be a place to start?

http://www.joyofbaking.com/BruttimaBuoni.html
http://www.hungrybrowser.com/phaedrus/m031502.htm
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/mario-batali/ugly-but-good-cookies-brutti-ma-buoni-recipe2/index.html

posted by ChzPlz on May 26th 2009 at 10:52am
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Another tip, via Taza Chocolate on Twitter:

Almond Snowball Cookies

posted by faith on May 26th 2009 at 10:56am
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Possibly a type of "Osse di Morti"....Bones of the Dead cookies? They are traditionally made for All Saints' Day in Italy:

http://photograzing.seriouseats.com/2008/11/bones-of-the-dead-ossa-dei-morti.html

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/569089

posted by ziacd on May 26th 2009 at 11:18am
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To me, it looks like one of these roasted flour cookies that I saw on Chocolate & Zucchini: http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2008/04/squeeze_cookies_a_roasted_flour_experiment.php

posted by flanbandit on May 26th 2009 at 12:08pm
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Are they something like these Chewy Amaretti Cookies?

http://smittenkitchen.com/2009/04/chewy-amaretti-cookies/

posted by molly_s on May 26th 2009 at 12:29pm
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Brutti Ma Buoni (literally "ugly but good") are an Italian specialty (obvious, I know). They're usually shaped by dropping spoonfuls onto the baking sheet. I've never seen any shaped like that before. Typically, it's a meringue (egg white and sugar) cookie with chopped or slivered almonds folded in; but it looks like those probably use ground almonds (almond flour). I'm not sure how they got the batter so firm that they could hand-shape them like that. Maybe the bakers are just very gentle?

Unless, of course, they're mislabelled. The Osse di Morti suggestion seems like a good lead. This recipe from Chez Panisse ( http://www.thecookbookcritic.com/archives/2005/12/chez_panisse_de_1.html ) apparently produces a firm dough (with almonds), which is supposed to be hand-shaped and coated in powdered sugar. Seems like a fit.

Well, in any case, congratulations, it seems you've found a very unique cookie! Enjoy them while you can!

http://www.abreadaday.com

posted by eprewitt on May 26th 2009 at 2:11pm
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Thank you everybody for helping me and giving me links. Iv'e been looking at lots of recepies after finding the name. When I have tested some of the recepies found when searchin for "Brutti ma buoni" the come out as more crispy than soft and chewy. But this http://www.foodtv.ca/recipes/recipedetails.aspx?dishid=6609 suggested by mschatelaine looks like the inside of the cookie im looking for. I will make a testbatch on this tomorrow. I'll keep you posted on the result.

Once again thank you for your time.

posted by Marcus on May 26th 2009 at 3:20pm
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I've had those before too! They're so good, unfortunately I can't remember the name. the woman who made them, sold them from a small catering service she'd just opened.
I understand your urge to find them, they are uniquely good.

posted by Carrie too on May 26th 2009 at 4:31pm
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Marcus, where did you buy them? I'm in Oslo too, and I want to try them.

posted by Solvi on May 26th 2009 at 4:51pm
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Ossi di morderi?

posted by dksbook on May 26th 2009 at 5:52pm
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Oh my goodness. I bought one of these cookies in a small Italian deli in Salt Lake City and having been trying to recreate them for a year! They referred to them as Angel Clouds. They imported them from a patissaria (sp?) in Italy. I have the link to the manufacturer but its all in Italian and there is not a recipe. I did look at the bag in the store and the ingredients were Almond Flour, Butter, Egg Whites, and Sugar. But no amounts. I have been experimenting in my own kitchen trying to recreate but every cookie has spread and turned crisp. No no no. The Angel Cloud cookie is chewy, slightly dry on the outside, with powdered sugar dusting. They look similar to your picture. Actually, there is a picture on my website www.themorsel.blogspot.com
Anyway, if you are really desperate, I can buy them and ship but they charge US$1 per cookie at the store!!!

posted by TheMorsel on May 26th 2009 at 6:11pm
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I would also guess they are ossi di morti a charming Italian cookie delightfully delicious in spite of translating as bones of the dead. This is one of my favorite cookies- I am gluten intolerant so have some for me- then I will say to you- jeg elsker dag men ikke fur al tid- I have no idea how to spell in Norwegian so if instead of saying that I love you but not for long-( after all it's a good cookie but just a cookie) you should find that I have written something like I enjoy motor oil on my silk blouse or some other absurdity please go by the English translation of my sentiments. If you are ever in San Francisco Victoria Pastry shop has some that will usually make Italians proud.
When you have stuffed yourself silly start eating Cannelle- these are from France and will make you wiggle with glee.

posted by profumodibergamo on May 26th 2009 at 11:29pm
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@ Solvi
In Oslo you can find them at EGER cafe, Øvre Slottsgate. Its the new cafe in the far bottom end of the high fashion shopping center EGER. And sometimes you can find them at Lille Oliven, Pilestredet 75 and at La Famiglia, Thorvald Meyers gate 25B.

posted by Marcus on May 27th 2009 at 2:48am
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@TheMorsel
My tests has the same result as you desciribe they become krisp not shewie. I will try one of the sugested recepies tonight and get back here with the result.

posted by Marcus on May 27th 2009 at 2:54am
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Marcus --

the secret to the chewiness in nut meringue based cookies is in the humidity; the drier the cookie, the crisper.

First try putting the cookies you made into a sealed plastic container for a day or two (maybe even with a slice of apple) and see whether that makes them chewier.

In any case, to get the look of that cookie from David Rocco, you should try underbaking them a little. This is something you have to play with -- each oven is different, and so just following a recipe will not necessarily yield the effect you are looking for. You will probably need to play with whatever recipe you settle on -- adjust the baking time or temperature. The factors include how large the cookie is -- if you change that part of a recipe, it will also affect the chewiness -- if smaller and thinner, it will be crisper, etc.

Also, sugar content is key -- the sugar makes whipped whites shiny, smooth and cohesive.

Just some thoughts for you to play around with!

posted by mschatelaine on May 27th 2009 at 7:43am
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Thanks Marcus. I found them at Il Moro (where Bogstadveien, Hegdehaugsveien and Professor Dahls gate meets) too. It was yummy but perhaps a bit too sweet for me.

I think it tasted a lot like kransekake ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kransekake for you non-Norwegians), but a bit softer and sweeter.

posted by Solvi on May 27th 2009 at 11:33am
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The result of the first test.
http://gallery.me.com/marcusdahlqvist#100046

YES! We are getting there... I will do some modifications and will get back with the result.

This is the recepie i used:

1/2 pound (225 g) almonds
1 cup (100 g) flour
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1 egg
Lemon zest, vanilla extract, or orange water

Baked 10 minutes at 175 degrees

the perfect taste is not there yet. But the form and the chewyness was perfect. I want it to taste a little more like marzipan.

posted by Marcus on May 29th 2009 at 1:17am
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These look like Ricciarelli, a Sienese/Tuscan confection. Here's my recipe (modifications based on a Recipezaar find):

Ricciarelli (Sienese Christmas Cookies) Recipe #185333
These are delightfully moist little almond cookies which come from a centuries old Italian recipe. There are many alternatives you can do to the base recipe. The photo shows plain Ricciarelli laced with Rum and Ricciarelli with orange and lemon, dipped in dark chocolate. I've made boxes of these cookies for people and they always seem to come back for more!
by JustEmma
12-16 Cookies
20 min 10 min prep
2 large egg whites
6 ounces ground almonds (Almond Flour or Meal) (I used 1.5 cups of almond meal, not ¾ cup—for almond macaroon-like cookies use 1.25, for denser, use 1.5)
1 tablespoon plain flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
2 cups icing sugar (Powdered Sugar)
1 teaspoon almond extract
rum or brandy or Amaretto
1/2 orange, zest of or 1 lemon, zest of
1 tablespoon candied orange or lemon peel
12 ounces of good dark chocolate
Sieve together the Icing Sugar, Flour and Baking Power into a bowel, then mix in the Ground Almonds.
In a separate bowl, add a couple of drops of almond extract to the egg whites and then whisk until stiff peaks form.
Stir the stiffened egg whites into the dry mixture until a sticky 'dough' is formed.
If you are trying the options, at this point add either a tablespoon of mixed orange/lemon peel OR the zest of half a lemon/orange OR a tablespoon of Rum, Brandy or Amaretto.
Sprinkle a board with sifted Icing Sugar and take a desertspoon full of the dough, roll in the Icing Sugar and form into a ball. Flatten the ball a little with the back of a fork. Continue until all your dough is gone (the amount above should make 12-16 cookies).
Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper and place your dough balls on, taking care to leave space for 'spread' during cooking.
Pop into an oven that's been preheated to Gas Mark 6 (200C, 390F) until golden brown. This should take approximately 10-12 minutes.

posted by jayaymeye on May 31st 2009 at 8:46pm
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Also, forgot to add, the "pinched"/diamond shape are traditional for ricciarelli. That's what they look like/are likely trying to emulate here...

posted by jayaymeye on May 31st 2009 at 8:48pm
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