A question of pepper mills, from reader Robyn:
I am perplexed by the assortment of different pepper mills out there. I am a fairly serious cook and my peppermill gets a workout (I have a terribly junky one now, and am ready to upgrade). I am willing to spend a few bucks on something that will last, so here are my questions...
Read Robyn's qualifications for a new pepper mill below and see our answer.
Robyn's questions:
- I am leaning toward one with a top handle, as I currently have the one where you twist the top vs. the bottom and it gets stuck sometimes (but maybe that is because of the fact that it is so cheaply made?)- I want something that performs, but is presentable at the table as well.
- How does everyone feel about a matching salt mill ... does it make a difference? I usually use coarse Kosher salt from a little covered pot, but if freshly ground sea salt makes any difference, perhaps now is the time to make that switch as well.
Any product/performance suggestions welcome!
Thanks, Robyn
Robyn, this is a great question, as a pepper mill ends up being a tool most cooks reach for over and over again. We are also looking to replace our old mill, so we're interested in any suggestions the readers have.
Here are some of the pepper mills we blogged about in the past. The first, the Perfex, is our current front-runner. It's a great blend of form and function, with a charmingly old-fashioned look and design. We like the chute that opens to pour in pepper. It also feels great in the hand, and it's not too big to see over like some of these monster tall pepper grinders!
• Perfex Pepper Mill - These are expensive, retailing for about $60, but they last for a long time.
• Peugeot Pepper Mill - We gave a set of these red lacquer salt and pepper mills away last December, and people went crazy over them. The Peugeot mills made Dwell's list of iconic kitchen items, and rightly so. They're well-made and beautiful. They also come in several colors and finishes. You can find this particular set for about $80.
• Vermont Marble Crank Peppermill - OK, this pepper mill is pretty extreme - look at all that heavy duty metal! But this may suit some kitchens, and it looks like it would last ages. Retails for $34.95.
ETA - Also, see our writeup on the Magnum Plus pepper mill , which really like as well.
OK, reader picks for pepper mills! What do you say?
Also, weigh in on the salt question. We do not use a salt mill; it frankly seems unnecessary. If we salt our food we use chunky Kosher or flaky sea salt for their crystals' crisp salty texture and the way they dissolves on the tongue. If we are baking we use straight-up fine salt. We have never really understood why we would grind our own salt; salt is salt - no matter whether it's sea salt, table salt, or Kosher salt. (This is barring, of course, finishing salts with their additional minerals and tastes. Just talking basic, un-flavored salt.) When it's ground it often becomes too intense for the food, too, and it makes it ultra-salty.
But feel free to correct us - should we use a salt mill instead of our wooden salt box?
Copyright © 2008 Apartment Therapy
we use a salt pig and/or piglets (nigella's) or little raku cups/bowls for the salt...
https://www.blisshome.co.uk/product.asp?product=35
and as for pepper, a traditional Greek coffee mill (there are 2 versions -- with the cup, or without)
http://www.pointshop.com/Mall/Catalog/Product/ASP/product-id/36563239/store-id/1000005777.html
http://www.shopideas.com/P70205-Traditional-Greek-Coffee-and-Spice-Mill-With-Receiving-Cup.htm
http://morethandinnerware.com/pro985183.html
view mschatelaine's profile
I love my greek pepper mill. It's handsome (I'm not keen on contemporary pepper mills) and it works great! I have a large brass one for cooking, but the small white one is nice for the table (or distinguishing between black and white peppercorns).
view applezest's profile
I have a puegot pepper mill (althought mine is black) that I love. I put salt in a small glass jar I got from crate and barrel. I like it better than the salt hog because it has a lid to keep dust out - when I'm cooking the lid stays off and it's wide enough to easily get a pinch of salt when you need it.
http://www.crateandbarrel.com/family.aspx?c=855&f=23656&q=salt&fromLocation=Search&DIMID=400001&SearchPage=2
view caw261's profile
Best pepper mill ever: http://www.unicornmills.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4&categoryID=1
We've given this pepper mill to couples as a wedding gift, to parents for Christmas gifts, and have used ours for going on 3 years now. I've never seen another pepper mill like it.
view wesaturtle's profile
I'm a huge fan of the Unicorn Magnum pepper mill. It was the one recommended by Cooks Illustrated, and I heartily agree, it's fantastic. I like the sleek look of it, and the shower of pepper that comes out is always satisfying. I thought the "Plus" model was abit large for my taste, and feel the smaller model is less obtrusive.
I previously used one of those squeezing "pepper balls" as well, which I always found frustrating because it never generated the quantity I wanted, even after 20-30 crushes. I then had one whose handle snapped off as I was using it - that's what made me switch to the Magnum.
For salt, I use kosher salt stored in a sugar bowl.
view Rog's profile
I have a large red Peugeot pepper mill (which I bought after seeing the pair here on AT, because I am a lemming! A LEMMING, I TELL YOU!), and it works beautifully. It's a much smoother, easier grind than the mill it replaced (which broke after just three or four years, which is not cool, in my opinion).
view TammyE's profile
I have a peppermill from Penzey's Spices; it's wooden with the top handle. It's about two years old, and I've never had a problem with it. I just checked their website though, and can't seem to find it, it might have been discontinued...
view libbyhunt's profile
ok, cheapy here-- Are there any decent mills for a little less? I have trouble justifying $50 for a pepper mill, even if it will last a lifetime.
view Eliza's profile
My tip is find one with a ceramic grinding mechanism, they are superior to stainless. I've had mine, I believe it's a Peugeot, purchased from crate and barrel on sale for $20 for years and it's still fabulous.
view foodiegirl's profile
Robyn read my mind! I've been mulling this over myself ever since I read Sara Kate's story about a "gleaming little first-date fairy." (The Perfex pepper mill) I've even got a gift certificate for Sur la Table, but the guilt in putting down that much money for a little table bling has held me back.
view squidlette's profile
I second the recommendation for the Unicorn Magnum pepper mill (saw it in Cook's Illustrated and on Alton Brown's website). I think the thing is rather ugly and not really suitable for the dinner table... but for cooking, it is awesome! The glorious, generous shower of pepper that rains down with every twist... its so much easier and more efficient than other mills. No wrist straining necessary...
I also love my Nigella salt pig. So cute and eggy. (though my hand does get a bit stuck some times).
view CDR's profile
i use the peugeot for my salt (only corse in my house!); it works fine and looks lovely, but the pain is that you have to always remember to tighten the bolt at the top, and my bf, who owns the pepper mill tells me the same is always happening to her.
other set back is that it doesn't hold that much salt/pepper, meaning filling up quite often (pepper once a week, if you use pepper every day, like I do)
for my pepper, i use the classic wooden italian huge peppermill (over 70 cm high!!) fill it once in a blue moon, looks lovely in every kitchen, rustic feel and modern, and great effect at the dinner table.
view candida's profile
Thanks everyone! I am leaning towards the Perfex (ease of reloading is a major factor), but I won't make a decision until I see the Unicorn in person -- Broadway Panhandler has both.
view robyn's profile