You either love them or hate them. Until a few years ago, I wasn't part of the camp that loves them. There were very few things I didn't like, but capers were on that short little list. Then something switched and now I crave them.
Capers, as we know them in little jars, or bins like the one shown at left, are the immature flower buds of the caper shrub, either pickled in vinegar or brined in salt. The semi-mature fruits, known as caperberries, may also be preserved and eaten.
Their flavor is piquant and lemony. Capers add pungency to Mediterranean dishes like pasta sauces, pizza, fish, meats and salads. They go well with olives, argulga, anchovies, and artichokes. Having a jar in the refrigerator at all is a good idea. I often use them when winging it on a spare pantry and leftovers.
I was introduced to capers by a very good foodie friend about 14 years ago - she also introduced me to smoked salmon, Filipino spring rolls and twice cooked fish with raisins and coriander... Good friend, huh? Anyway, I used to just buy the plain old Unico brand in a jar and sprinkle them over everything but then I had a culinary revelation when I had dry salt cured capers for the first time. SO superior in texture, flavour and while it takes a bit of rinsing to use, its so worth it I can't even tell you...
I'm really big on capers and the little jar in the fridge is usually more on the empty side than the full side.
But I was surprised by the use of capers in a resto in town, they deep-fried them before putting them onto the dish (I can't remember what it was!) The frying concentrated the flavours and added a fun crispy touch.
I've had deep fried capers before as well, Michelle. I had them in a smoked salmon risotto at a resort at Ayers Rock, Australia (how weird, I know...) and LOVED them. I replicated their recipe and will post on my blog today... Thanks for reminding me of them!!!
I adore fried capers - so easy and delicious - a fun way to spark up a dish. But they are something of a contact sport in my kitchen; salty wet capers in hot oil make for some hopping, ducking and splattering. Very entertaining. Any tips you have on reducing the bodily harm factor would be appreciated, Eric.
I want to learn how to fry capers too! I've had them in restaurants, but never even attempted it at home.
Capers seem to be available at all prices. From gourmet shops to Goya . . . anyone have a sense of some capers being woth the extra cost? I've found them to be about the same.
The trick to frying capers is to use the dry salt cured ones. I've found that a quick rinse is really all they need to get the surface salt off before popping them into the oil (dry them first!!!) They don't make quite the mess that the brined ones do.
Chris, I personally find that the more expensive ones don't make a HUGE difference, unless they are the star of the show. There's a few caper-based meat relishes and salsas that I think benefit from the pricier versions, but for simple, every day use? Regular brine cured ones should be fine, in my opinion. Spend the money on a better cut of meat, a nicer bottle of wine or even a few flowers for the table. That will add more enjoyment to your meal than the incremental costs of capers, in my opinion.
Chris, I like the small capers (Nonpareille), which I consider have a better taste.
(For those in Montreal, large bottles of 2 or 3 diff. types of capers, incl.nonpareille, can be found at Aliments Aubut, wholesalers near Atwater market.) I then divide them into smaller bottles, they keep in the fridge a v.long time! lots cheaper this way.
I googled capers and found this- quote:
Capers can range in size from that of a tiny peppercorn (the petite variety from southern France, considered the finest) to some as large as the tip of your little finger (from Italy).
unquote
The larger caperberries (the ones that Leeds found on google) are really kinda cool as an alternative for olives in a tapas kind of setting, try them wrapped with a strip of smoked salmon or jamon... They're also really cool in a martini...
Eric, great suggestions!
Hey leeds,
Thanks for the "leed" on bulk capers. I'll never run out again!
Michelle,
:)
--they're great quality too. Enjoy!
Summer is salad time, use lots of capers!
we use them in ceasar salads, tuna salad etc
Thanks Leeds!
I'll have to stop by and grab some bulk capers when I'm next in Montreal (which should be sometime in July...)
Eric
Great. Being a foodie, did you pick up the March Gourmet featuring Montreal? Good coverage, leads, etc., but I'm sure you know your own way around & havefriends who'll point you in the right direction. July's good: jazz festival, just for laughs, outgames, pride, etc.
Hey Leeds, I actually (gasp) missed that one! Can you imagine??? I know, shock of horrors!
We (my boyfriend and I) both have friends in the city but none of them are foodies, so I could certainly use a few good leads. Here's an idea, why don't you catalog some of your faves, I'll post them on the blog and I'll do the same for Toronto? :-D
I am one of the Anti-Caper people. Boogers! Perfect for flicking! Also, they roll away so annoyingly. What is up with that?
thanks, ya'll made me crave capers last night... i just had to go home and make a tuna & mint pasta salad dressed liberally in capers (i've found that the ones from Trader Joes are delicious and cheap enough to truely enable my caper habit).
Hmmm... Tuna and mint and capers? Together? Interesting combo! I wouldn't have necessarily thought about the application of mint to tuna... Thanks Ann, a new one to try out!
it's DELICIOUS
whiz some fresh mint, one garlic clove, salt, a blob of mayo, a glug of olive oil and a few drops of lemon juice together
mix that into some cold pasta and drained tuna, top with capers, mix, et voila!
yum!
Wow! That sounds amazing Ann! I'll have to give that a go!
Eric - Food etc.Recommendations-Montreal:
At Marche Atwater, check Premiere Moissons bread & (all butter) croissants. Les Douceurs du Marche for great tea selection, spices, oils etc.
-Voted as having best croissants: Duc de Lorraine Patisserie, 5002 Cote des Neiges, all-butter croissants,cheeses,deli,great cafe au lait, in a bowl. It has a tearoom/terrasse; good for breakfast; close to St. Joseph's Oratory.
At Marche Jean-Talon, 7070 Henri-Julien Ave.
(Premiere Moisson has a shop here too), check cheese shops: Hamel, and Qui Lait Cru!?! (raw milk products, yum!)
The excellent Le Marche des Saveurs du Quebec (All Quebec products, excellent selection, including fish, meats, pates,..)
Restaurants-too many to do justice. Enjoy! Theres ubiquitous Schwartz Smoked Meat on 'The Main'(Blvd.St. Laurent). I personnaly recommend Quebec Smoked Meat, 1889 rue Centre (514)935-5297; they smoke all their meats themselves, no nitrates, excellent products (no tables in the shop, they just sell you the components)-Worth the detour. The rest. Smoked Meat Petes also got acclaim by Montrealers; its out of the way, but if you want to go for a nice drive: 283, 1Re Ave, LIle Perrot, QC. good.
Le Cabaret du Roy is a rest. in Old Montreal- the menu, entertainment, characters, decor, are just like it was in 16th cent.Quebec (Nouvelle France). Entertaining and educational.
Mtl.Bagels: St. Viateur Bagel Shop, 263 St. Viateur,or Fairmont Bagel, 74 Fairmont; call for spec.orders such as 'all-dressed', etc.
In Old Montreal: Olive & Gourmando, 351 St. Paul, artisanal bakery (breakfast/lunch), featuring fab. brownies, etc AND, Fri./Sat. only: chocolate bread (not cake!), dark dense bread, not sweet,with a HUGE chunk of dark Valhrona chocolate baked into it! Good.
Miu-Miu, ice cream shop on St. Denis below Mt. Royal; v.diff.flavours (mostly made with organic ingredients); features a selection of frozen soya milk ice cream.
Eric, I wish you a nice stay in Montreal; don't forget the capers!
Add'l thoughts:
For truly adventurous palates: at the Insectarium there is an insect tasting featuring edible critters prepared by specialized chefs!
If you have the time and desire: La Route des Saveurs(The Flavour Trail) (tourisme-charlevoix.com/en/circuits/saveurs.asp) connects local cheesemakers, farmers and meat producers who open doors to public for tours, demos and tastings.
Book: Gastronomy and the Forest is now avail. in English, fusing the best of Quebecs great outdoors & its fine cuisine, features photos & recipes for local favourites such as trout pie and caribou pot-au-feu.
Thanks for the guide Leeds! I posted an entry on my blog with your info! Please let me know if I've made any errors in translation :-)
Thanks again!!!
Looks good. and..you're welcome! pls give a reminder when you post your Toronto recs.
Check out these sets of photos (of Mtl.) taken by a friend.
www.pbase.com/rtessier