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Food Science: Why Tougher Meats Make Good Braises

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We've often wondered why so many recipes for beef braises call for lean cuts of meat like bottom round or chuck and whether a more tender cut might work just as well or better. Since lean cuts also tend to be cheaper in the grocery store, are we just being thrifty? Or is there a reason why lean cuts make for better braises?

 
 

As a steer is wandering around looking for tasty treats, the muscles in its legs, shoulders, and hips get the biggest workout -- even in a feedlot. This results in leaner, tougher meats from these areas. Cuts like shanks (from the legs), chuck roast (from the shoulders), and top and bottom round (from the hindquarters) will be lower in fat than those from the relatively un-exercised middle. These lean cuts are also higher in a connective muscle tissue called collagen, and this is what really makes the difference in a good braise.

When you cook any piece of meat, first the raw muscle fibers will start to firm up and the fat begins to melt. As this happens, water molecules get squeezed out of the cells. If you take a bite at this point, a tender steak cut with a lot of interior fat would taste juicy, while a lean cut without much fat would be moist but still unbearably chewy. If you keep cooking, those water molecules will evaporate and leave your steak tough and leathery. In lean meats, however, the collagen comes into play. During long, moist-heat cooking, collagen breaks down into gelatin, which tenderizes the meat and gives it that melting, succulent feel in your mouth.

The moral of the story? Leave your well-marbled steaks for quick-cooking on the grill and give the lean cuts their time to shine in your winter braises.

More on Braising:
Book Review: Braise by Daniel Boulud
Word of Mouth: Braise
Dutch Oven Round Up

Good Braised Recipes
Braised Beef Brisket
Chipotle-Porter Pot Roast
Malaysian Beef Curry

This is by Emma, who is up for one of our new writer positions. Welcome Emma!

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Comments (17)

ooh, this could really help me cook my farm share meats better...

posted by poppacorn on February 11th 2008 at 5:57am
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just found this site. Loved it. Keep on the good work.

posted by Maria Pereira on February 11th 2008 at 6:16am
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"wandering around looking for tasty treats" ...hee! You've just described my average workday. Moo.

I find food science fascinating. Next time, tell me why my pancakes are leathery? I know it said don't sift the Bisquick, but I just couldn't help myself. All those lumps! :)

posted by crankopotamus on February 11th 2008 at 6:25am
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@crankopotomus. Too much stirring! For pancakes, muffins and the like, you want to stir just until mixed and no more. (The scientific answer I believe is that the excess stirring causes the gluten in the flour to develop.)

posted by peardown on February 11th 2008 at 6:31am
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Tougher meats make for better braises but not all lean meats make for good braises. Tenderloin and top round are very lean but if braised, can end up dry and stringy because of the lack of any fat. They could be quickly braised but you wouldn't want to cook them to the point of falling apart. It's definitely those "gangly" pieces of meat like chuck, shank and brisket that have all that connective tissue that will break down lending a nice gelatinous quality to the braise.

posted by art on February 11th 2008 at 6:35am
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ah-ha! Biggest food pet peeve ever! It always drove me absolutely batsh*t when I'd splurge on sirloin for my beef stew and it'd be dry! I used to think I was just overcooking it or getting meat without enough fat or something. Looks like I'll go for the cheap stuff. Thanks!

posted by f00d on February 11th 2008 at 7:22am
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For folks interested in food science, I'd like to recommend Alton Brown's amazingly entertaining and informative Food Network series, Good Eats.

posted by Bruce Anderson on February 11th 2008 at 8:09am
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I have just started braising and want all the help I can get! This was really useful, thanks!

posted by rgaken on February 11th 2008 at 8:24am
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Here is the food science bible:

http://books.google.com/books?id=GnEuAAAAMAAJ&dq=Harold J McGee&hl=en&prev=http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=harold mcgee&btnG=Google Search&sa=X&oi=print&ct=result&cd=1&cad=author-navigational&pgis=1

posted by art on February 11th 2008 at 8:36am
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Ditto the recommendation on Good Eats; also try out Cook's Illustrated (Culinary Inst. of America). It's a terrific, barebones, science-heavy, well-explained publication. I don't use it for the "recipes" per se (although they're great. I'm just not a recipe person). But, I do use it to analyze the techniques and purposes and use them to make dishes tailored to my liking.

posted by fugitiverouge on February 11th 2008 at 10:31am
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And we can't start mentioning sources for braising tips without recommending Molly Stevens' All About Braising. It's simply awesome.
http://www.amazon.com/All-About-Braising-Uncomplicated-Cooking/dp/0393052303/ref=pd_bbs_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1202764438&sr=8-2

I've probably made 20 of the recipes and everything has been delicious. She talks about braising all kinds of food, iincl. seafood and veg.

posted by renata on February 11th 2008 at 11:15am
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I love a scientific explanation for how to make good food--and it's always nice to hear that a leaner option is actually tastier (it seems to go against the saying "what is good for you doesn't taste good"). Thanks for the enlightenment, Emma--nicely written and hope we get to hear more from you!

posted by Mayonaisse on February 11th 2008 at 12:22pm
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Thanks for the explanation. Now I understand why my family used to shop for "shin" beef to make stew with & why it tasted so good. Good article & good luck Emma.

posted by Hot Toddy on February 11th 2008 at 5:03pm
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Justo estaba buscando información sobre la preparación de carnes. Una guía facíl de seguir, ahora seré más cuidadosa al seleccionar los cortes de carnes.

posted by Angelica5 on February 11th 2008 at 5:25pm
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Thanks so much for this article, Emma. I have always wondered why certain cuts of meat are best for certain dishes. Hope to see more of your articles!

posted by janlynneberg on February 13th 2008 at 5:37am
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I was just looking for an explanation for this exact phenomenon and I think I may have just found my virtual culinary home. I really appreciate the non-preachy but informative tone of this article, and the site in general.

posted by Estrella on February 19th 2008 at 6:21pm
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I think is the first time when I am reading something like this, and if I am thinking, you are right! Never realized it, though. The best part is that you gave, with the idea, the explanation. Good work! BTW! Found your job while looking for the Frigidaire parts that i need... AND MADE QUITE A NICE SURPRISE! :)

posted by timada on July 2nd 2008 at 1:01pm
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