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Food Science: What is Sourdough?

2008_04_15_SourdoughScience.jpgFor anyone who began a sourdough starter from our recipe last week, we hope your starter is bubbling happily right now! If the surface is frothy and you get a sharp whiff of vinegar when you peek under the lid, your starter is ready to go.

But before we start throwing spoonfuls of sourdough willy nilly into all our baking, you're probably wondering just what is going on in there?!

 
 

As soon as you mix together flour and water, an enzyme naturally present in the flour (called amylase) is activated and goes to work breaking down the complex flour starches into sugars. Wild yeast and bacteria both feed on these sugars during fermentation.

Wild yeast (saccharomyces exiguus) is a different strain of yeast than commercial, packaged yeast. It lives all around us in the air and on plants, grains, and fruits. There is some naturally present in the flour and more gets incorporated when you stir the flour and water together. The wild yeast is here as the leavening agent (the same function as commercial yeast in regular bread dough), and also produces alcohol and carbon dioxide as a by-product.

Also in residence in your starter is a friendly, non-harmful bacteria called lactobacillus. This is the same bacteria present in yogurt and many cheeses. Lactobacillus also feed on sugar and produce two kinds of acid as a by-product: lactic acid that gives the sourdough its mellow rich flavor and acetic acid that gives its tang and punch.

Depending on the conditions of your starter, one or the other of these acids is produced in greater abundance. Liquidy starter (near equal balance of flour and water) makes more acetic acid and your bread will have a more distinct sour flavor. A stiff starter (higher percentage of flour to water, about 2:1) makes more lactic acid, giving your final bread a more mellow, rather sweet taste.

Wild yeast doesn't actually contribute to the flavor of the sourdough at all! It's necessary because it's made of sterner stuff than commercial yeast, which would die in the acidic environment created by the bacteria. This same acidic environment protects your starter from the strains of bacteria that would make us sick.

The science of sourdough can get pretty fuzzy, and one of the best resources we've found is The Bread Baker's Apprentice by Peter Reinhart.

So how is your starter coming along?

Image of sourdough starter by Emma Christensen for the Kitchn.
Image of lactobacillus courtesy of National Center for Complementary and Alternative Medicine.
Image of saccharomyces exiguus courtesy of Wikipedia.

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Food Science, Baking Products, sourdough, lactobacillus, saccharomyces exiguus, wild yeast

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Comments (7)

I started mine just two days ago and there is some liquid and some bubbles...but a question. Should I be putting the lid on tight, or loose? It's a gladware container and lid...Just wasn't sure if outside air needed to wander in?

posted by aleec on 2008-04-15 15:35:02
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Aleec, I'm excited for you! Even though, I "know" sourdough is science, it still always seems like magic...

Covering loosely will work just fine, and you're right--this will let more air circulate in. I think if the lid is snapped on really tight, it might pop open under the pressure of the building gases.

posted by EmmaC on 2008-04-15 16:01:42
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I'm on day 3 of my starter (technically, it's day 4, but I forgot to take care of it last night!). My starter seems separated. There's a thin layer at the bottom of dough-iness. On top of that is a layer (about 1/2 -3/4 inch thick) of liquid. And on top of that, the sticky, bubbly mess.

Do you think this is normal? I, rather in authentically, threw in a pinch of yeast and am wondering if this is contributing the the stratification.

posted by MMG on 2008-04-15 16:56:39
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Just the coolest bread in the world, duh!

posted by ekoshyun on 2008-04-15 18:30:23
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MMG, I have to admit that I'm not entirely sure what's going on with your starter! Typically, watery liquid would start forming just on the surface of the mass--this is actually raw alcohol given off by the yeast. Hmmm...

I wonder if maybe you're not mixing the flour and water enough. Tomorrow when you add new flour and water, mix really vigorously until it's the consistency of pancake batter--100 strokes or so--and see what that does.

Does anyone else have any thoughts or had this happen to them?

posted by EmmaC on 2008-04-15 21:14:21
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Thanks for the tips! Mine is coming along quite nicely now!!

posted by aleec on 2008-04-16 09:09:37
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Today is Day 5 for mine and it does keep separating, but it seems to be the traditional pancake batter consistency on the bottom and alcohols on the top. Nothing like MMG is experiencing. I just stir the liquid back in once and a while.

It sure smells like sourdough -- I hope to bake some bread tomorrow!

posted by TaraGL on 2008-04-17 09:26:43
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