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The Cheese Monger: Queso de La Serena

We're trying out a new feature about cheese written by a cheese-monger friend whose identity we're keeping a secret for now. Just as we're selecting a different wine to try each week in the Vino column, how about a different cheese each week? Let us know what you think: keep the cheese coming? Or hold the cheese?

2006_03_29-queso-de-la-sere.jpgSo, you're at the cheese counter and you're thinking about getting something Spanish. I can almost guarantee that you're contemplating the big M, Manchego. While the French have their Brie and the Swiss their Gruyere, Manchego dominates the world of Spanish cheese for most people.

But Spanish cheese does not begin and end with Manchego. In fact, the county produces some amazing cheeses, most of them made from the supremely palatable sheep's milk. Among my favorites is a lush, creamy cheese called Queso de la Serena.

 
 

When I started working the counter at one of New York City's most venerable cheese shops, subtleties were not my forte. I was looking for cheeses with brash, strong and memorable flavors. The Serena is just that. Creamy and moist when ripe, its mild looks disguise a sharp tanginess, due to thistle rennet. In fact, the flavor profile leans more towards the Portuguese family. This is not too odd considering it hails from the town Cáceres, which sits on the border with Portugal.

As with most sheep cheeses, in particular the ones from Spain, I find it pairs very well with a nice red wine. Match a glass of Rioja with some olives and a bit of the Serena and you have a culinary trip to Spain without having to brush up on those high school Spanish lessons.

Queso de la Serena is available for $17.99 per pound at Murray's Cheese (254 Bleecker Street between 6th and 7th Avenues, in the Grand Central Market, and online).

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Dairy Products, Cheese

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Comments (20)

Yes, keep the cheese coming! I love the wine and cheese reviews, especailly when they talk about the actual flavors and serving suggestions.

My favorite cheese? Roquefort Papillon - such tangy blue taste, crumbly and creamy at the same time.

posted by rachel on 2006-03-29 12:55:05

A cheese column is a great idea. I didn't know about the wine column and will add these two to my daily rotation.
And I have a question for your cheesologist!
I was just reading the other day on chocolateandzuchini.com about a cheese called
Petit Suisse
I have looked for it at Zabars, Garden of Eden, and other gourmet places (haven't checked Murrays yet). Any idea where in NYC/brooklyn to get it????

posted by Erin on 2006-03-29 13:09:39

yes to cheese column, and how about cheese reporters out there (anyone) who discovers/ rediscovers an interesting cheese and wants to share views,tasting notes and recommendations with the rest of us.
And cheese reporters from diff. cities telling us about some of their region's cheese specialties & where to get them, as some of us may be travelling around during the warm weather months..?

posted by leeds on 2006-03-29 13:32:46

L.O.V. E. C.H.E.E.S.E

posted by K. on 2006-03-29 14:23:30

Yes, please keep rolling out the wheels of cheese. As somebody once said, cheese is milk's leap to immortality.

About cheese shops: In the Boston/Cambridge area the only place to go is Formaggio's Kitchen. In the Berkshires there's Rubiner's. On Western Long Island try Bernard's in Glen Head. On Eastern Long Island try the Village Cheese Shop in Southampton for, among other things, local cheeses.

posted by Design (and Food) Dabbler on 2006-03-29 14:36:53

Yes, yes, yes! Sweet Jesus, YES.

posted by My Name is Earl Grey on 2006-03-29 15:10:58

I heart cheese! Keep it coming!

It would be cool too (although I realize, complicated) if the wine and cheese experts could synchronize every so often to recommend specific pairings.

posted by nora on 2006-03-29 15:24:29

YES CHEESE LOVE CHEESE

I've actually been contemplating putting forth the idea of an "Everyone Eats Cheese" weekend blog event so people can learn more about regional cheeses

since this seems like a fromage lovin' group anyone interested?

oh and to D(af)D that cheese shop in Boston RULES i even bought the tee-shirt :-)

posted by ann on 2006-03-29 16:28:41

Ann:

Clicked on your name and read your blog. Liked it.

What are your favorite cheese sources in NYC? I'm a frequent visitor there, but have only hit the obvious places (Artisanal, etc.).

posted by Design (and Food) Dabbler on 2006-03-29 18:19:06

Ann:

PS: Yes, to a regional cheese blog. With the globalisation of all food, I'm all for regional anything.

I tried a cheese from New Jersey last week -- a sheepish little number, that I quite liked. One doesn't normally associate cheese with New Jersey.

posted by Design (and Food) Dabbler on 2006-03-29 18:31:05

Hi! Glad everyone liked the article.
Erin: about the Petit Suisse: Good cheese shops to check for this cheese would be Bedford Cheese Shop, Artisanal and, if you live in Brooklyn, Bierkraft might have it. If you can't find it, you might want to check out Brillat-Savarin. It's a creamy, high-fat cheese with a really nice, almost buttermilk twang in the finish. I haven't tried the Petit, but from the descriptions, that's the closest I can think of and i know they carry it at Murray's.

To Design (and Food) Dabbler, my top places in the city are, in addition to the above, Blue Apron Foods (also in Brooklyn) and Tuller Foods (though, truthfully, I've never been, but I've heard good things). Sahadi's also has a decent selection, though not in the class of some of the above, they're good for the standards (Epoisses, Manchego, etc.)

posted by the cheese monger on 2006-03-29 22:33:53

More cheese, please.

posted by Wallace on 2006-03-29 23:19:56

Yes, this is a great idea for a column! More approachable for me than wine, and more likelihood of finding the products you talk about where I live...

posted by Andy on 2006-03-30 02:14:16

The cheese column is a great idea.

I'm from Spain and this cheese isn't from Cáceres, in Extremadura region are three great cheeses:

Town; cheese name and link

Cáceres; Torta del Casar
http://www.tortadelcasar.org/ingles.html
Badajoz; Torta de la Serena http://www.tortaserena.com/english.htm
La Serena; Cremositos del Zújar

In the links you find how to eat the cheese ;)

Sorry for my poor english


posted by Josep on 2006-03-30 05:58:32

welcome Josep!

posted by guido on 2006-03-30 11:34:57

Hi Josep!
Obviously, I'm not from Spain, so I'm only going by what I hear and read. I found the town name from the info we r/c at the shop I work, but I did check it with a few sites before posting.
The sites www.cheesesfromspain.com, www.quesos.com, among others all list it coming from Extremadura in the area of Cáceres.

Those cheeses you pointed to look awesome though, thanks!
I have a special place in my heart for Spanish cheeses, so any info you pass on is greatly appreciated :)

posted by the cheese monger on 2006-03-30 19:02:43

Hi guido and the cheese monger.

Maybe i can help you with a simple recipe:

When you eat Torta (Casar or Serena) you end with the cheese crust, if you want to eat it try this recipe:

1 cheese crust (with the cover crust that you cleared in the beginning)
50 ml double cream
4 bare potatoes, sliced thin
sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 160ºC
Stuffed the cheese with the potatoes (when you make a layer throw a tablespoon of double cream and season).
When you fill up the cheese, put the cover crust.
Put the cheese in a pot (same size of the cheese) covered with tin-foil. It's important that the cover crust-side down.
Serves with salad.

posted by Josep on 2006-03-31 06:28:15

Hi Josep, thanks, seems delicious!

Bienvenido y muchas gracias por tus comentarios.

--I did the temperature conversion, 160 C is 320 Farenheit.--

posted by leeds on 2006-03-31 09:39:23

mmmm..that recipe sounds awesome! I shall most definitely try it. thanks!

posted by cheese monger on 2006-03-31 17:03:53

Hi! Love the idea for a cheese column! I'm just starting to make my own cheese and i want to do it using traditional methods so i'm desperately looking for a recipe for rennet using thistles or nettles...if anyone out there knows any i'd be very grateful to hear them! Thanks Ray ;)

posted by Ray on 2007-03-02 14:15:30